satrat z

Hi Guys, I have a rolling 2+2 for sale. The body is in quite good condition, it was stripped back a few years ago and then stored in a shed. So no hidden rust area's as the paint has been removed. There is some rust under the rear seat area in the floor, the front floors are clean. Also some rust in the rear hatch. The rails are straight and doesn't look to have ever had any front end damage in its life. Would also make a good donor front cut for a 2 seater project. It would make a great project car for someone who wants a relatively cheap starting point.

Hi Andrew, If the fibreglass panels are to be fitted to a road registered car, just make sure your state allows fibreglass panels for rego. I have had problems with this in NSW before. Yes I have done 2 track cars with Alfa FG panels, they are OK, but certainly not a bolt on and perfect fit that's for sure. I have used the original bonnet vents and just cut into the fiberglass bonnet to fit the vents. The heat that they release is well worth the effort.

I have had both on my track 260z, I have to agree with some of the replies. Absolutely the ITB's are the better option if you are chasing max HP. Without knowing what you already have re suitable computer, harness, pumps etc etc, don't under estimate the cost of ITB's to set up properly. My set up came from EFI hardware and I couldn't have been happier with the service and quality.With needing a new computer to make the most of the ITB's, a new custom wiring harness etc etc there was very little change out of $10k and that was doing the whole installation myself. Previous to the ITB's I had a modified original plenum manifold with an RB30 throttle body. The off idle smoothness and low down torque was very similar to the ITB's but beyond mid range and into the top end the ITB's were noticeably better. I had a dyno done with both options and the dyno sheet confirmed the advantage in the later half of the rev range. One of the limitations with the plenum manifold was having to use a relatively mild cam. Too much overlap in the cam causes airflow interference within the Plenum as the next intake valve opens. This caused a flat spot around 4200rpm. My opinion though, if I wasn't needing high rev performance all the time, like on a track and was using on the road, the plenum manifold and single throttle body was a simple and smooth set up that was about a quarter of the price and performed as well as most triple carbs that I have set up on other L28's for road use.

Thanks Mike, Yes its looking like the R180 might be the best option. I have a few 4.875 R180's here so might put the C and P in a Subi LSD with the 27 spline adapter shafts or look out for an LSD Nissan R180. Losing some car weight as well as a bonus! Cheers Geoff

Thanks David, Will let you know if I decide to sell the 4.375. Will mostly likely keep it though as it is a good ratio for faster tracks, am mainly wanting the 4.875 for Morgan Park which suits a bit lower gearing. Cheers Geoff

Hi guys, I am chasing a 4.875 or similar ratio R200 diff or just gear set for my 260z track car. I am running a 4.375 LSD R200 at the moment but have just swapped to 17" rims so am now needing to lower the gearing. Cheers. Satrat z

Hi Guys, Just a quick update, I have had enquiries re the shells selling separately but would prefer both of them to sell together to get at least one of them back on the road through building one out of the two. I have adjusted the price to $5500 for the two and will also be advertising them elsewhere if anyone is interested in both shells for the price of the one. Cheers

Hi Guys, I have just removed a modified and great performing efi set up from my 260z track car. I am selling as a complete bolt in system, including Microtech ecu and wiring harness which has been dyno tuned to suit this combination, also included with the system is the 280zx distributor suited to the efi and foam uni filter pod which mounts in front of the engine bay for cold air induction, silicone hoses and hard elbows to suit, as shown in the attached photo's I have recently spent $900 on an efi hardware custom fuel rail and new Siemens injectors. The system has an RB30 throttle body with TPS and modified plenum manifold. I had it fitted to a P90 head but will also suit any L series head with the efi cutouts at the top of the inlet ports. This has been a trouble free, set and forget system that has a beautifully smooth delivery no matter what the conditions are. I have replaced it with ITB's to suit a new engine that has been fitted. Cheers Satrat z If you are interested the price is $1600 for all of the above as a bolt in all inclusive system, this a fraction of replacement cost and gives comparative performance to triple 45's but with a smoother delivery.

Hi guys, I have decided to sell 2x 240z rolling shells, one is a 73 and the other is an early number (HS30-00836) 70-71. I have a bunch of other z projects on the go and can see they will tie me up for the next few years. My plan was to build one car out of the 2 using the early number as a base but using the bulk of the 73 shell. Both are rolling shells but as the photos show the 70' has a lot of rust which I would consider too far gone for a rebuild, but I have seen worse repaired by people with more skill and enthusiasm than myself. The 73 has a sun roof but the 70 roof was planned to be used as the replacement roof panel. All running gear as in the photos will be included but depending on offers I may remove one of the steering columns and the windscreen. I would prefer to sell both of the cars to the one buyer as I think this is the best way to keep the early girl number on the road after a rebuild using the two. I haven't advertised elsewhere yet and will stay like that for a week or so, as I would like them to go to an Auszcar member. The price is $5500 for the 73 and $2000 for the 70 but will consider an offer for the two combined. Thanks Satrat z

Hi PB260Z, I think I have the manifold you are after, it came off a fuel injected L28 and is the standard manifold. I will check it in the morning. I am in Coffs Hbr so not sure what you would want to do postage wise if its the right one.

Hi Manyu, I am in Coffs Hbr and have a freshly built 260z engine. It was built in Brisbane by an experienced Z engine builder, ported head and a 72 degree cam, with new valves and springs, bearings, pistons and rings. Balanced crankshaft and lightened flywheel with HD clutch. I bought a 240z just after the engine was built and then replaced the engine with an SWM built L28. I have photos etc of the engine being built that came as a folder when I purchased the car. The SU's won't be included but can fit a distributor and alternator if needed. If you are interested you can PM me and I will let you know any other details needed

Hi Gav, I will buy them, thanks. I have pm'ed you.

Within 20kg's of each other sounds good, I will have another check of my perch height differences. Yeah agreed, I have access to a mates set of scales so I might have another go at it. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks Jason, I will give that a try, I think trying to corner weight when the car has progressive springs also makes it a bit more difficult because you don't get a direct result from any perch adjustments.

Hi guys, Just after some advice re corner weighting a Zed. I spent quite a few hours with the track car on corner scales and adjusting the spring perch heights on the coil overs but with my body weight 80kg's, I couldn't get the right rear within 60kg's of the other 3 corners without drastically changing the ride height which I didn't want to do. Am I chasing an impossibility? Any advice from other Z owners that have some experience in corner weight adjustments would be much appreciated. Cheers.

Hi guys, I am hoping to find some headlight covers for sale to fit to my 260z track car. I will be painting them so it doesn't matter if they are scratched. thanks.

Thanks to Mark for putting together such a great car, I had originally considered turning one of my 240's into a track car but came to my senses after doing the maths and this car came on the market just at the right time. Initially I will be competing in NSW and Qld hill climbs and sprints in it and hopefully long term, when finances and time allows, some targa events. The car is set up for Targa at the moment and after competing in a few local hill climbs recently I have chosen to do a few set up changes to the suspension to suit. I will probably be a bit more relaxed racing her once the first scratch has happened! Thanks to all of the forum contributors on this site, such a great collection of knowledge to refer to when looking at building up a Z car. Cheers.

After a bit of fumbling on the computer I have resized the photos to go with my previous post, unfortunately not real good quality now but better some than none eh.

Hey guys, Just thought I would share a few photos of my last 6 months work on one of the 240's. It is a 71 that I bought mid 2012 that was excellent mechanical wise, totally stock except for springs, shocks and rims but was in need of a back to metal respray. After approaching a few panel beaters/spray painters here in Coffs Hbr I finally found the perfect, "old school" very meticulous man for the job at a businees called Automotive Rust Busters. Most days he has to deal with the result of poor previous repairs that have rusted out etc so he knows the proper way to do things. After seeing his previous resprays on Porsches and some other old Australian classics I took the 71 zed in started stripping down the panels back to metal and prepping them for the panel work. Six months later of part time work allowing for me to do all the time consuming prep etc in my time off and we rolled her out of the spray booth and bought her home for putting back together. I had previously ordered a bunch of parts for the interior and rubbers etc from MSA for the other Z's so it was great having all the new parts ready to bolt on. There is nothing worse than having a newly sprayed car and putting on old rubbers and badges etc! The other 240's in the photo's are part of a collection I started a few years ago after wanting to relive my younger years, teaching my wife to drive 20 years ago in our 240z and then keeping it for 5 years as our everyday driver, kicking myself now for selling it but needed a bigger car at the time. The orange 240 is a 1970, build number 00329 the other red and silver ones are both 73's. The orange one , I have fitted an SWM L28 street motor with triple 45 webers, i had asked Stew for a driveable torquey pump fuel engine and thats exactly what he built. After deciding the original box wasn't going to last long I swapped it out for an S14 box and did the diff move back to allow for the longer box. My plan is to build the silver 240 up into a track/targa car, my wife and I camped up at the Morgan Park track to watch the super sprint series which got me all enthused to get out on the track. So the next project is to weld a cage in and order some bits from AZC, the car will be a bit of work in progress during the race season as I don't have the time or money to build a quick car in one hit, so I will get out there and hopefully just have some fun and improve the car as we go along. The other red one I plan to do a back to metal rebuild again, it was originally Kalahari tan but would like to spray it Datsun white. Hmmmm just tried to attach some photos but the site won't let me because of the 256kb limit per photo, not really computer smart so will have to try and resize the photos and post later! Sorry.

I had a similar problem with mine after fitting a new box and clutch, it was sorted by replacing the bearing carrier for a longer one. If you measure the one you have as a starting point, Stewart Wilkins Motorsport can supply them if you can't find them else where.

Glad that was of some help, re flipping the mustache bar, maybe that can be done but I swapped the straight bar for the later model bent one. The S14 box is a massive improvement. Not sure if you have replaced the rear seal in the box? I bought my box from SWM and after installing found that the seal was worn and leaked badly so if you haven't already, it is a good time to do it. Especially now with the diff moved back, the tail shaft bolts are a lot more difficult to access as you have probably found. I also found the original rubber gear stick boot doesnt fit because the S14 boot/upper seal that fits tightly around the stick interferes with the early model boot as it hangs down too far so i just used a generic one that fits on top of the tunnel as it is covered by the vinyl boot on the console anyway. Hope all goes well. Geoff

Back again, sorry mate also forgot to mention the restraining strap going over the top of the diff needs to be moved back in to the rear holes so you only get to put one bolt in per side , I have kept an eye on mine and haven't seen any movement with only one bolt either side . If you felt the need to you can weld an extension on the bracket and drill for the fwd hole to fit a second bolt. Hope that helps.

Hey mate , have just done this exact diff move on my 1970 240 after fitting an S14 box, the mustache bar and also the straight brace behind the diff needs to be replaced with the later style curved brace . I got all the parts off Stew Wilkins as he had supplied a new engine and box. I also replaced the fwd diff mount with a 73 that I had sitting around. This was recommended by Stew but if you don't have one I am pretty sure it would have lined up with the old style. Did you use a modified Gearbox cross member ?

I can't comment on the differences between the 9's and 152's but I have just fitted a set of triple 45mm 152's to my L28 and have been impressed with everything except the redline manifold and linkages that were supplied with them. If you can go for an alternative I would recommend it. The carbys themselves though, couldnt be happier.

Thanks for the reply dat2kman, Yes the head work was done recently in Brisbane before I bought the car and is still in good condition. I have just purchased the webers and have put 34mm chokes in to hopefully smooth out the lower rpm, haven't fitted the webers yet so will no doubt need to do some re jettingto suit. The inlet manifold is a redline, unfortunately I wasn't able to find an inlet manifold that allowed a bit more throat size for match porting to the head but will see how it goes initially.