DreamZproject

I'd just like to point out that these seats are in very good condition, but they do have the odd small scratch. I'm not going to pay for a whole new set of covers when most people wouldn't be driving around in seat that are in such good condition... :'(

Woot, I got my urethane Xenon airdam this weekend which has spurred me on to getting all the paint stripped off the car so i can all be sprayed. I also recently came across some decent condition 240z seats (which I think look way cooler than the 260 seats ), a pair of excellent condition 260 rear tail lights as well as a bunch of other bits and bobs. I think now there are very few parts I need for the car, so a current total cost of $5,752 is pretty decent IMO. (This includes $150 worth of paint stripper, orbital disks, etch primer etc.). Besides the two big costs of getting the rust welded up, and getting the car professionally sprayed, the spending should really start to decline after this to the point where the car can be registered... If i can get the car totally on the road for under $8,500 ill be stoked! (i'll add some more pics soon!)

Thanks for that reverendzed. This gives me a little incite into how the job should be done. I'll go ahead over the next few days and get some foam and see what i can do... The last thing I'd like to do to the seats to get tehm back to pristine condition is to get rid of those small tear marks. Someone mentioned to me that there are places that do vinyl repairs. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced place in Victoria, and what sort of fee am I looking at paying? Thanks

Hmm that's a nice elegant solution! The only problem i have with Clarke Rubber is that their prices are RIDICULOUS!!!! I'm guessing that its because they have no competition, but its really just stupid how much you can pay for a little bit of foam...

Hey guys, I've had a bit of a look through the forums and I can't quite find what im looking for... I recently bought some nice looking 240z seat, but seeing as though they have been sat on for the last 40 odd years they are fairly saggy... I mainly want to know whats the best sort of foam to use (can you be any more specific than high density???), and how thick the foam should be, ie to allow for compression, but still pad out the seat without it bulging. Im guessing that doing the seat base will be a lot easier than the back, but I'm up for the challenge because the Vinyl is in quite decent condition, and IMO is worth the effort. I'd really appreciate you sharing your knowledge!

Hey Alex, bit of an odd question here... I really liked the door unlock knobs you had (the ones with the little "Z" on them). Would you have ANY idea where they came from, I know its an odd thing to obsess over, but I remember the first thing i saw when getting in your car were those awesome little white Zeds! Hope the cars still running well!

Great parts Zman! I hope you realise how excited we all got over seeing all these parts (well me anyway...) Already having a quick browse through my parts i see that i will need to get a bit of a list going with you, I realise i should have picked up a headlight lens and didn't... :/ Now I'm just looking for a good way to get those seats clean!

I just got a reply from Roberto, and he's willing to part with his airdam! So, what courier company have you guys been using to move around your bumpers? I remember hearing that there is a company that will do it for something crazy like $30, is this right??? Thank you all very much for the replies, and information that i needed. Hopefuly this thread should help someone else in the future... (or not considering how the issue was resolved ) Thank you everyone that contributed your time and knowledge for a begginer Z lover! -Robbie

Hey is anyone coming from adelaide to vic within the next couple of weeks? I'm willing to compensate a bit for you to bring an airdam over, anyone intertesed?

Hmmm this sounds tempting. If i cant find anything before the point where you need to know, I'll drop you a PM, and I'll go with your very generous offer! Thanks decoy!

Decoy, that would be cool (as long as they look identical to the regular xenon one with the brake ducts). What sort of price do you think I'd be looking at? Also, is fitment the same on 240z's as 260's? I remember on one website they said that i would need the 240 air dam because my 260 is an early one...

Thanks for the offer whittie, i really like the look of your bumper, and I'm sure someone will take you up on that offer, but personally, i am really, really set on the classic xenon bumper with brake ducts... I don't know what it is... Cool looking bumper tho!

I have just got a reply from a company in America i emailed about the xenon dam. They charge virtually nothing for the dam itself, but obviously a bomb for postage. Group purchase anyone!?!?! Shipping is $405. Total $582.46 USD. from BodyKits.net

Yeah I'm with Tj, i love the look of those brake ducts... I just bear to not go with that look...

BTW, the guy suggested that i use paint stripper to get all the paint off the car... does this sound a little laborious to you???

Well, i contacted the two retailers xenon parts recommended... The one in America, for some reason would post to Australia most things, just not this airdam... The place in Australia COULD get it, but seeing as though they generaly only order jeep/ Chrysler bits, it would take near on 3 months to get here... I am really sold on this look of bumper, as most people are... is there anyone out there looking to sell their bumper!?!??!?

He also said that the repair work done to the wheel wells (had some sort of thick tar on it) was bad because it would let the moisture in and trap it against the metal... so i gotta strip that back and check if it has just been whacked over rust... which i doubt... Ahhhhh this is really confusing me!!!

well, I would be willing to strip it back and fill it myself, but i dont have the skills to weld or anything like that... My main concern is properly checking out the floor pan and chassis, if they are gone... well, it is almost useless to work on it...

Ok, bad news... I was visited by a local spray painter/ body mechanic, and he thought that I need to strip the car right back to metal... He also mentioned that he wasn't sure if the car was worth doing... I think he was over reacting there as he wasn't very familiar with the early Z cars, and as we all know, there's never too much rust in a Z!!! (really there isn't a huge amount) The only thing I'm concerned about is rail and chassis rust. I haven't been properly under the car yet to have a looksie and see if its useable. The spray painter said its very hard to tell unless you get it up on a hoist and have a decent look (and pull things out like the fuel tank etc.). Although I do believe him on a lot of the points he made, I could never shake the feeling that, really, the only reason he's there is to make money, so why wouldn't he exaggerate? So basically I'm feeling a little put out now and lost, not sure what to do next...

I just realised that energy suspension offers a 2 year warranty... ima thinking that even if the bushes go after 2 years, it isn't really that big of a deal considering that the whole suspension kit costs under $200... How much would it be for a full set of rubber bushes for the 260? I'm guessing its significantly more than that...

Ahhh stivva, you're the guy i wanted to talk to! I was wondering if it was possible (when the finish looks bad enough) to buff the satin effect out and be left with a regular gloss look. Would you happen to know if the job would look any good after this, ie, will it always look like a satin job gone wrong? Are there any alternatives to satin that you've seen? for example some kind of candy paint combination??? Thanks for the reply!

Hmmm, might be worth it, considering that getting it rechromed would cost a similar amount...

They are a fairly famous brand that does cheap poly bushings. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=7.18102 Thats an interesting fact that i wasn't aware of regarding water retention. What sort of time frame were you talking about? because, although it would be a pain to replace them that often, they are quite cheap to buy... Are there any other options other than rose jointing, or stock rubber?

AHHHH! here's the counter reply i was looking for! Would there be any longevity differences over a standard finish? and if a repair needs to be done, how difficult is it to blend the paint in? Keep it coming guys, this is great info!

So I know that the energy suspension kits look like a great deal, almost all the bushing you need on the car for under $200. But how do the bushings fare? What i am after, is something a bit stiffer than stock, but nothing too bone jarring. I also want something that will last me long enough, something that i don't have to go out and lubricate each weekend. (nothing sus intended )