GongZ

Hello Classicman and welcome. Just to add to what HS30-H has said; My 240Z is HS30-103724 (engine number 189707) and has an Australian compliance plate dated 9/73.

The seller was Street Lens (David Azzopardi Manufacturing, Minto NSW) which was shown in Gav's post; From memory, the housings he made were the 2 bulb variety and he made matching lenses with a partial amber section for the blinker bulb. I spoke to David (Azzopardi) about the housings about 6 months ago, and he had none in stock at that time. He did say that he might make some more in the future - so I imagine that a group purchase could be arranged if there is sufficient interest.

Re: Datsun 260z damaged shell SOLD Sorry, this ad is no longer available. - as at midnight Friday 12th June

Datsun 260z 2 + 2 with RB25DET registered in NSW http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-260z-2-2-with-RB25DET-registered-in-NSW-/321717178988?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ae7d6926c "The car is fitted with a Nissan RB25DET engine and gearbox. All running smoothly. In the last two years the car has been fitted with new struts, most bushes, clutch, diff mounts and it has new Pirelli tyres. The car needs a paint job. Currently it has a tailshaft rumble (probably universal joint) Small bits of rust, nothing substantial. Whoever painted the car before our time did a crappy job. Looking at the photo what you see for example around the rear door frame is not rust but peeling paint" "The car can be seen at Avalon NSW. Call 0414496972 to make a time. The car has been blue slipped and the engine is on the rego papers. The motor is standard and is rated at 187 KW I believe. The motor and gearbox were mounted professionally. With a decent paint job and the tailshaft (driveline) sorted this could be a magnificent sports car. Please, no gawkers. Only see it if you are genuinely interested in buying it and only bid if you can pay for it" EDIT: I just discovered that this is a member's (garahamv) car and the subject of this thread; http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15802.msg167045/topicseen.html#msg167045

Quote from: cracker on April 02, 2015, 09:07:35 AM Quote from: oldmates260z on April 01, 2015, 06:22:17 PM Ummm - the price seems to have increased a little - now its $140,000.00 or near offer !!!

So what we need is a list of fasteners and a friendly local supplier. I found this thread on HybridZ a while ago, which focuses on the fasteners under the car; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98751-suspension-bolts-inventory The zip file in post #3 is a spreadsheet which gives the details of the fasteners and photos to help identify them. The diagrams in post #14 are also very useful.

Totally unnecessary of course - but here is a video of the results

Hazard lights are working! The problem I had was with the hazard lights flasher can/unit/relay. The one I bought on eBay, was described as an "NOS 240Z" item, but it was stamped as being for 24V. I replaced it with a new electronic 12V version, hooked up the US 240Z hazard switch, connected a battery to the car, and bingo! - working hazard lights. I can also confirm that the brakes lights still work when the hazard lights are on. So, in summary, all you need to do to add hazard lights to an Australian 1973 240Z is; - Obtain a US hazard switch - Remove the loop-back connector from the 6 pin connector and plug in the US switch - Install a 12V flasher unit to the previously unused L-shaped two pin (one green and one white wire) connector near the blinker flasher unit. I would imagine that the same would apply to earlier 240Z's, using the appropriate vintage US hazard switch. They may even be interchangeable, because the 6-pin connector looks identical - just check the wiring diagram for your model. I still haven't found the light source (or the connector for it, if its missing) in my 1973 or mounted the hazard switch in the dash. I think I will be removing my dash further down the track, to swap gauges and replace bulbs etc. - so I will fix everything then.

I have just rung Rare Spares - they do not sell any bumpers for S30's. I then rang Muscle Car Parts Aust - and confirmed that their bumpers are chrome-plated steel. I also rang Mazda Phils Rotary Products Rubber (the only other Australian eBay seller offering S30 bumpers) and confirmed that their bumpers are also chrome-plated steel. The link that Retro Z posted does not work - it just takes you to the alibaba home page. I have a set of Harrington bumpers in my parts collection too - and they are now substantially more expensive than the steel bumpers sold locally. (As of today - GBP 699 + shipping fee of GBP 59 = GBP 758 OR ABOUT AUD $1,496)

I have had another look at the dash connector for the Hazard lights switch today. Although it is a 6-pin connector - it only has 5 wires connected to it. Comparing my connector (and its wire colours), to the US market wiring diagrams, I think the pin out arrangement is as shown in my attached diagram. If this is correct, then the missing wire is the Green/Yellow - which (in the US) would be constant power from the fuse box to the Hazard lights switch. The Hazard switch then applies power to the wire going to the brake light switch (only when the Hazard light switch is OFF). If our cars are missing this wire, the brake light switch must be getting power from somewhere else. This also means that the 3-pin dash connector for the Hazard switch will probably only have 2 wires connected to it. The third wire on US cars takes power from the Hazard switch to the brake light switch. This circuit is why the US cars' brake lights do not work when the Hazard lights are on - this circuit is only closed when the Hazard light switch is OFF (ie. when you have the Hazard Lights dash switch ON - the power to the brake light switch is cut). This means that if we manage to get the US Hazard light switch to work, we should still have operating brake lights when the Hazard lights are on. I have also attached a diagram from this page http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ to show the pins connected when the Hazard lights switch is OFF and when it is ON.

I looked at the link in Gavin's reply to this post; Looking at the ad on that page - the bumper bar is described as; "Datsun 240Z 70-73 Bumper Rear Chrome" and "Brand new reproduction part. Chrome rear bar to suit 70-73 Datsun 240Z." There is no mention of stainless steel. This must be a chrome-plated steel reproduction bumper. As far as I know, The Harrington Group is the only supplier of S30 stainless steel reproduction bumpers, and I don't think they are sold by any Australian retailer.

Hi once more 240Z Guy, My car had a 'solid' black lighter when I bought it from the original owner. When I originally researched adding hazard lights, I discovered that US market '73 cars had a lighter with a translucent green face (to match the hazard switch knob) - like this one; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-70-89-240z-280z-280zx-300zx-LATE-GREEN-LIGHTER-/261733931684?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cf08edaa4&vxp=mtr I have attached some photos of the US lighter that I bought on eBay, one of which shows the lighter next to a desk lamp to show the lighting effect. You will see in the photos that the lighter has apertures in the sides, between the element and the face of the knob, to allow the light to get to the front. I will probably find that I have a light source already fitted to my car when I play the next round of under-dash Twister. Incidentally, I have yet to see the light source shown on any 240Z wiring diagram. I was also hoping that someone would have already tackled adding hazard lights to a late 240Z, and would chime in here, but it looks like its just you and me so far. The speedometer in my car is in mph, and obviously the odometer is in miles too.

Hi 240z Guy, Thanks for the pic and info - I will have another look tomorrow for the connector for the light source, now that you have pinpointed where it should be. Did you buy the light source (or can with a bulb in it, as you call it) or was it already there? My 9/73 compliance plated car does not have an illuminated cigarette lighter (yet - I have one ready to use if this all works out) - does yours? How far have you got with this? Do you have a hazard switch yet? Have you found the last connector (the 3-wire one)? By the way, I used my Dremel clone to make a groove in the ignition switch security screws and removed the switch/steering lock assembly which of course, now that it is out, works perfectly.

Just a quick post to tell you where I am at with this; Thanks to 240z Guy, I have found the “6 green wires connector” and the loop-back connector in my car. I also found the connector for the hazard lights flasher can. I have NOT (yet?) found the 3-wire connector, at the hazard switch end (to hook up to the connector noted as “TO FLASHER CAN” in my January 24 post). I also failed to find a connector for the light source (to hook up to the connector noted as “POWER & EARTH FOR LIGHT SOURCE' in the same post). My car has not been driven or touched for nearly 20 years, so I thought I would check that the blinkers still work before I went any further with this. Unfortunately, I have now discovered that the ignition key will not turn at all. I have searched the web for this problem, wiggled the steering wheel, tapped the key with a hammer etc., but no joy. It seems that I will need to drill out the security screws and remove the ignition switch/steering lock before I can go further. (bugger!) As Cozza has pointed out, it seems that the brake lights are inoperative when the hazard lights are on. This is a bit of a disappointment to me (ie. It would be nice to still have brake lights when using the hazard lights to drive in a fog) and I can only assume that this is to make the hazard lights stand out better when stationary.

Thanks 240Z Guy, So the connector in your first photo is indeed for the hazard switch - but there should be another 3-pin connector nearby to match the 3-pin connector shown in my pics of the switch. It looks like you are right about the connectors in your second pic - the wire colours suggest that the left one goes to the power antenna and the right one goes to the standard single radio speaker. If your blinkers were working with the connector in the third pic not connected to anything - then it must, as you say, be for the hazard lights flasher can. This seems to be getting somewhere now! By the way, I am very keen to have working hazard lights on my car. I think they are an important addition - especially when driving in fog and in an emergency situation. I was driving home in my 240Z years ago and happened upon a motorcycle rider who had fallen off his bike and was lying in the middle of the Pacific Highway. I parked my car to protect him from the traffic - and all I could do was to leave my left blinkers going while I attended to him. I have wanted to add hazard lights ever since then.

Hi again 240Z Guy, Could you please describe where the connectors in each of your 3 photos is/was located? I took some photos under the dash of my '73 240Z (I was feeling up to playing Twister and getting in there to do it properly) and I didn't spot them. Were they, or any of them, hiding under the black wrapping tape used on the loom? If I can find mine - I might be able to plug in the hazard switch and flasher unit that I have and see what happens.

I am still pondering all of this, but I did find this web page which looks helpful; http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/

I don't understand what you mean. Aren't the wires that power the rear indicator lights connected to the 6 pin connector (in your "Hazard Switch connector 1" photo) ?

Hello 240Z Guy. I am still in the parts collection and dreaming stage of my project, and my hazard light has been languishing in a box in my garage for 4 years. Your message did however, prompt me to do a search and the following link may help you. I hope you figure it out and look forward to hearing how it goes. (from Fiddling With Z Cars - Loving cars, especially Z cars) https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ The author asks that - "Since this is a labor of love that takes significant time to put together, I ask that you give me and my blog full attribution if you choose to post my work elsewhere." (DONE!) I also dug out the switch that I have, took some new photos and added notes showing how I think it all works. I have included a photo of the hazard flasher 'can' (or relay) thought bought some years ago on eBay, which was listed as an NOS 240Z item. As you can see the part number on the box is 25391-Z0000. I have yet to confirm that this is the genuine part. [EDIT Feb 23, 2015 - this part prove to be incorrect - an electronic 12V flasher unit was used instead - see my Feb 23, 2015 post] Where it says 'TO FLASHER CAN' in the first photo, I should have said that it goes to a harness connector that goes to the flasher can location, which is described on the US sites as being above the kick panel near the hood release - different side for RHD? The flasher can I have has two spade terminals at 90 degrees to each other - so the flasher can connector should look like the connector shown in your last photo (is that your turn signal flasher can connector?) but, according to the wiring diagram I have, it will have a blue/white wire and a green/white wire. The connector labelled 'TO DASH CONNECTOR (with 6 green wires)' obviously goes to the connector shown in your first photo. I presume that the male and female bullet connectors shown next to the 6-wire connector are for the lighter socket (did you disconnect these before you took the photo?). This thread will also be useful to you - http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=12499.0 One thing that puzzles me about this thread is that as Dimitri (Zedman240) points out - in the abscence of the hazard lights switch, a 'loop back' plug would be needed to connect power to the turn signals - but you don't seem to have found one on your car. Did your turn signals work before you started to pull things apart? PS There is a 'Datsun 240Z FLASHER LIGHTER BRACKET ILLUMINATED 73' ORIGINAL NISSAN MOTOR OEM' on eBay at the moment (about AU$125 landed- ouch) - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/311190126582?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (I notice that the switch and the socket are installed back-to-front in the photo and that the 'light source' is not included))

Very original, white, 7/73 build 240Z located in Wollongong NSW. No bids at this stage - starting bid $500 and NO reserve! Auction ends at 21:58:09 AEDST on 21 Dec, 2014, VIN number - HS30 102897 Engine number - L24 176956 For some reason, you will not find this listing by searching for "Datsun 240 Z" (note the space before the letter Z as used in the listing) - I found it by chance. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240-Z-Sports-1973-2D-Coupe-5-SP-Manual-24L-Twin-Carb-/111548212904 eBay item number:111548212904 From the ebay description - “About the car; This is an "original condition" ie; unrestored vehicle, and would benefit from a comprehensive restoration. The car has been sitting in my garage for nearly ten years (April '05) without being run, and whilst recently attempting to fire it up, found that the engine is now seized. Though the body is structurally very sound, there are various spots of rust around the car and the duco is crazed on the doors.It still has its original engine, so is a "matching numbers" vehicle. In 2003 I replaced the original R180 diff with an R200 but still have the R180 (albeit in pieces) and it will be part of the sale.” EDIT (21 Dec 2014) - Car sold for $10,400

Hi MJC - PM sent regarding the brake booster.

vroom!

done!

nearly done...

It was good to meet you and yours too Steve. I had a great time and thought the event was a big success. In this bunch is a pic of you passing a GTR! Congratulations on how well your awesome new car went (and sounded!) on the track!