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bullzed

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Everything posted by bullzed

  1. Hi everyone, Chasing a red interior for a 280ZX, need everything excluding front seats, roof lining and carpet. Preferably in 7/10 condition or better to replace my current one. Located Brisbane Photo of car attached for attention. Cheers Zac
  2. Chasing the big letter one if you're willing to sell separately
  3. What's the condition of the clutch like? Do these use stock clutch fork and throwout? And also does it include the flywheel? Any idea what you'd want for the Nissan OHC cover?
  4. Chasing a full red 280ZX interior in good nick. Door cards, dash, pillars, boot trims centre console etc. Located Brisbane
  5. How much you chasing Jason?
  6. Chasing an R200 Longnose gearset in either 4.1 or 4.375. Located Brisbane
  7. Hey guys, Just looking for a 1 piece G-nose located in Brisbane. Cheers Zac
  8. I didn't win that light, it's far from first on the list of crap that needs attention The wheels are 14x10.5 -38 fronts and 14x12 -57 rear. Tyres are 185/60-14 and 215/60-14 front and rear. About to drop it another inch and push the guards. I'm aiming for Zokusha styling, it's a track car now. Believe it or not the cops aren't fond if it.
  9. Wider, louder, lower!
  10. It was still a spray job but was done with Ironlak, which is a really thick aerosol. It came out a bit dodgy in parts where tyre shine and other silicone products had soaked into the previous paint but other than that I'm happy with it. I don't drive it daily, only out to the track and back really. Speaking of which, tomorrow night is it's first appearance at Friday night drifts!
  11. bullzed

    Bitsa engine

    Yeah I've realised the pistons won't come up to level with the block, but I'm sure messing around with FJ20 rods and a custom pin-height in the pistons I can make a combo that's going to give me the height I need. Close ratio will be hard to obtain, I'm sure I can work something out but in the mean time I'm going to focus on the engine. Header wise I'm going to go Kameari, once I've worked out flow rates etc in the head I'll be able to narrow my decision down to sizing. Also a colloquial term for short stroking a motor is de-stroker, you'll find it's used quite commonly In terms of balancers I'm up to date with them, as you say it'll definitely need to be underdriven. Obviously this thread is all speculation at the moment and things will only become definite as the build progresses, but I'm just trying to get my head around what is needed for the build in a general sense. I do in fact have a copy of 'How to modify your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine', and I'm currently reading it Thanks for all your help guys, it's much appreciated!
  12. Thanks man! They're actually a 1980's reproduction of Volk Aero disks, however these have a unique way of bolting on in which they can be used with nearly any 14 or 15" wheel. They come with special elongated wheel nuts which have a 6x1.25mm thread tapped into the top of them. Then there is a 4x114.3 6mm PCD drilled into the covers, you just throw some hex head 6mm bolts though the PCD and they bolt into the top of the wheel nuts. This holes them securely and parallel with the face of the wheel. Pretty cool design and they were BNIB from 1983!
  13. bullzed

    Bitsa engine

    That's factoring in an RB20DET box conversion and cushioned full face organic Kameari clutch. Should be fine for 9k shifts, given the right person is driving it! It's going to be street registered but it won't be a city car, at most it'll travel along highways to get to tracks.
  14. I have been meaning to fix that tail light for the good part of 6 months now, finding that single particular lens for an Australian C110 isn't proving the easiest! The fender mirrors I'm really happy with! They balance out the car quite nicely Not to mention I love using fender mirrors as they show a much wider range of vision! It was painted for $109, not the best job, but it's still what I was after considering it's all one colour and can easily be touched up if I touch a wall or similar.
  15. bullzed

    Bitsa engine

    I've been advised 44PHH's or 45 DCOE's. I can imagine 48's would be a little large for a 2.6ish litre destroker. I am wanting it to rev it's tits off, I already have a decently torquey L26 2.7L in my Z at the moment with DHLA40s, it's a good setup for a street car and it'll most likely end up in an HR30 or something when this new motor goes in the Z. I know 20k is a lot of money, but this build is for the sake of building this type of engine, a high redline L6 engine. I realise 20k could get me 600HP with an RB25 or similar, but this NA screamer is a route I would love to take.
  16. bullzed

    Bitsa engine

    Thanks for all the responses, so many ideas to choose from! But I guess that's how it goes with every new build Matt I'll send you a PM regarding your long motor and assort spare bits! From what I've gathered I'm intrigued by the longer rod idea. I'm also in discussions with Jason regarding some of the builds he has done, and even though it may not yield the highest hp I could obtain per dollar, I'd love to build a destroker to rev to 9k. I'm considering N42 block now due to the larger bore walls, FJ20 forged rods, pin height adjusted custom pistons, knife-edged and lightened L24 crank, Kameari valve train (don't worry, I have the catalogue and understand that there are 82 yen to a dollar, not 820 ), 75 or 76 degree cam, Kameari headers, 2.5" stainless or 1.75" twin stainless exhaust. Now obviously there are all of the little things too, I understand that, but just trying to get a handle on the main aspects of the motor build. Also I understand the price tag on all of this, I've set aside 20k over the next 12 months to do so
  17. bullzed

    Bitsa engine

    Yeah port and polish, deshrounding of the valves, may shave it a few thou. Haven't decided to what degree I want to take the rebuild, but we've got a few heads which we're going to play around with and flow bench.
  18. bullzed

    Bitsa engine

    So I'm at a point where I'm ready to begin building another engine. I've been having a look around and I'm pretty sure the way I want to go is as such: Block: L28 F54 (possible 1.5/2mm overbore depending on sonic test) Head: L26 E88 Crank: L24 Rods: L24 H beam forged Pistons: L28 flat tops forged (oversize to whatever bore is safe) Cam: Something geared away from everyday driveability towards mid range and top end. Lightened flywheel Suitable valvetrain components From what little information I've been able to find about this combo, the static compression falls around 9.5 to 10.1 depending on headgasket thickness. It becomes destroked to just less than 2.7L but with the shorter stroke can be pushed to rev harder. Basically what I'm looking to pull from this engine in the end is a hard (and high) revving destroker which I can aim for 220hp at the wheels with. Would anyone have any info or helpful advice when it comes to mating this combo together? Cheers Zac
  19. Hey man, when you say 'rebuilt' does that mean just freshened up? Or has it had anything extra done to it? Cheers Zac
  20. Definitely has been a long time. Finally getting around to spending some more time (and money) on the Z! T-minus 3 weeks until I can start taking it out to Friday night QR!
  21. If you try and style a car wide and aggressively within legal constraints, you're going to have a really bad time. I have 14x10.5 -38 and 14x12 -57 R-types with 185/60 and 215/60 respectively. These will be run under standard guards on an S130. No matter whether your car is mildly modified or whether it is full blown, cops will ALWAYS pull you over. If a cop wanted to defect my completely standard daily car, they could, they will always find a way. The world is just full of people trying to out-loophole each other, so just do what you want, enjoy it while it lasts, and don't put others at risk. I'm pretty sure no one is going to die because I have 12J's on the rear of my car. As much as cops will try to make me feel like a criminal, I know that the fine and points that I receive will be solely because of my refusal to adhere to the laws, not because I put anyone at risk. If you don't want the attention, or you don't want to deal with the consequences in the event of an accident, simply put, don't do it. Just keep your standard guards and leave it alone. You can't have your cake and eat it too in this instance.
  22. Buuuuuuuump still looking.
  23. I'll just leave this here.
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