260DET

More progress despite much heat in the shed, ventilation might be an idea. As far as I can estimate/measure the left trailing link rod end bearing is now correctly aligned and in place, finishing work to come after the right side one has been done. The idea is to do a reverse replicate of the left one, that will be 'interesting'. Now to the two lateral links, need to do them next for the left side to make sure as far as possible that the trailing link is where it should be. Rotated pic from the rear shows a rough mock up of what will be involved, hub is on the far left, diff on the far right of the pic.

If the Z31 project is finished and tested then I'll bring that, otherwise the 280ZX will have it's problems attended to and it will have another go. The problems include getting engine braking and a 4th gear lock up sorted for the auto which otherwise was pretty nice to use, sorting the aero to prevent high speed front end lift which was pretty scary and kept top speeds down because, squark, squark... Some how or other the car has to be lowered a bit, or at least the front has to be, without lowering the roll centres. Then the front under tray angle of attack will have to be looked at, I'm still not sure what that should be. As the 280ZX's engine, ECU, auto etc is to go into the Z31 then there has to be a cut off point where work on the Z31 stops because there is no way in the world that I'm going to miss Bathurst this year. Best 2016 top sat nav speed was about 244kph backing off as above so more speed to come yay. That and the sensational variety of challenges Bathurst offers, so much time to gain or lose, brilliant

That was a great Bathurst time David, now as the star everyone will be gunning for you this year

Yeh, turbo Z32 300ZX used the R230, NA the R200.

From what I know short nose R200's started from S13's, Z32's, not sure about Skylines. Anyway from Nissan models that used the multi link type rear suspension, they used short noses, turbo Z32's did not use the R200, they used something bigger.

Onto the hard bit now, complete rear suspension revision where few (any?) have gone. The semi trailing arm setup is being converted to a trailing arm with lateral links system eg Gp C Bluebird, E36 BMW. The original sub frame is gone, the diff has been solidly mounted to the body, the inner legs have been cut off the suspension arms and two lateral links will run from the outer hub assemblies to a new rear diff mount setup. Lining everything up accurately and designing solutions are the tough bits, I'll let the pics do the progress talking.

Wow that multimeter one is good, learnt heaps there. But there is another multimeter video where a woman talks a lot about using a probe, got me a bit nervous.

Seem to recall reading somewhere that a you beaut remote control cut switch is available now.

$130 for a 8 circuit wiring loom, too good to ignore. It would be a different thing if a road registered car was involved but it's not, weight is really not an issue, circuit breakers would be cool but once again simplicity rules. It's going to work something like - main power on, ignition and fuel on, hit the big red start button

What's a "twin fig 8" Jason? The trailer core wire sounds like an idea but the ebay loom has a fuse box and provisions for relays in a box which can be dash mounted. Yes, have to find out what the load for the electric steering is, it will require it's own mini loom I think, 40-50 amps draw seems quite common.

Thanks Peter, the engine has it's own OE harness and a Haltec ECU already wired up so I guess that all that's needed there is power for the ECU which would be 'ignition' I think. One thing I've found is that race switch panels are invariably ugly and expensive, searching egay brought up a suitable marine switch panel and of course a big red start button which lights up when pressed. Switch panel will be ignition, fuel, wiper and lights are far as I know.

Sports Sedan so minimum wiring, other than the engine lights and wipers are it I think. So considering a DIY kit, the only odd requirement is power for the electric steering. Decent fuse and relay box plus a dash switch panel, separate start button and ignition and fuel switches. Any kit or parts suggestions? I do have basic wiring experience.

This is in a country town, I'll probably get a write up in the local rag for my display of patriotism. None of that city extreme PC rubbish here.

Thanks for the generous offer Matt, you will have a PM.

Hmmmm, maybe hang some Aussie flags off the Zed, go and do some donuts yelling 'Aussie Aussie Aussie oi oi oi'. How's that?

More progress, except for some transmission tunnel bracing and the roll cage the structural part of the job is pretty well done. The front chassis rails have been strengthened and braced back to the main body while the removable front suspension X member has been tied in with the front body X member. What with the engine and transmission and front suspension and steering all loading the removable member (four bolts to the rails) was something that needed work, when you look at any Z car up to the 31 they all lack beef in that area compared with modern cars. To finish the job a SST piece was welded in up front to counter any rail twist. Hope that the pics show what I'm talking about, note that the car is on the rotisserie at about 90 degrees, front suspension bolt on bits are just in position and not bolted in.

Body work is progressing, most of the bracing previously mentioned has been done. The only major body structural job ahead is to make some transmission tunnel X bracing near the back, the front of the tunnel will be braced too in the form of a fancy transmission mount support later on. Car is ready for its cage once the bonded in windscreen is removed although it has no prospect of having wheels soon so transporting it is a problem. The rear semi trailing arm suspension is going to be heavily modified, to start with the original subframe has been deleted which necessitates a complete replacement diff mounting arrangement and that's just the start, oh dear. Only one pic, which was taken last year. The two engine stand rotisserie works like a champ.

What's the state of cams for LSx engines Whitley? Have the Yanks got them pretty well nailed down? My otherwise standard LS3 has a 220/236 Crane 2019381 cam, a bit more power around 6k would be good, track rev range is 3,500rpm up to 6.5.

Could/should be of interest to the Sc racers, a bit more power plus some brake management and they will be porking Porsches. Get with the programme and spend more money than they do. Whitley, have you 'advertised' on HybridZ?

So what performance characteristics do those 101/103 cams with rockers have compared with the OE type setup? PS This is high tec stuff Jason, go away.

Crikey, what cams are those

I'm interested depending on the content, a semi reference type book would be great with plenty of details of the cars involved and their racing records plus pics of course.

The OP is in Tasmania, maybe a heater would be the first priority. Seriously, does it really get hot enough there to make enough difference?

Gavin is going to buy an industrial property where he will be able to import and store all this stuff and sell it at a fair price

Thanks blokes, looks like a trawl through the wreckers will be necessary.