Sirpent

HUNTER........ Shut the F#?! UP ................LOL The mans happy with $20.00 an hour, ohhhhhhh sorry thats $25.00 an hour, do we get a GST legal invoice if we pay the $25.00 ?

Loui, Beat you to the post.......LOL

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-260Z-2-SEATER-1974-ROLLING-SHELL-240Z-280ZX-L28_W0QQitemZ110459519948QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Cars?hash=item19b7e683cc This looks like a very clean shell bar the skirt / rail.

Just Listed.......... QLD Car, so probably full of rot http://cgi.ebay.com.au/datsun-260z-260-z-240z-2-2_W0QQitemZ260509294693QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_15?hash=item3ca7906065

"The next available number is # 2010-004" "Once you collect your number please be seated and wait for it to be called" "Your business is important to us and Dr lurch will be with you as soon as posible" "You have been put in a priority cue, current estimated waiting time is 3 months, 8 days, 4 hours, 12 minutes and 22 seconds" Thank you.

Nice ride.................... Cant see much wrong with it........... You didnt buy one while we were all asleep did you? I had those same rims on my Zed when I first purchased it, hurricanes if Im correct? Anyway, will hopefully be dropping off the donk in mid december for you and as discussed you have 6 months or so on it. Cheers John

Welcome, You're in for one hairy ride on this site not to mention the car ! Bit like the Hotel California in both cases, "You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave"

So is this the start of a work register for 2010 ? If so just confirming job # 2010-002 (After Joels Z being 2010-001) (X1) Engine re-build

May have a word to him.......... Cheers John

Agreed, And if thats the effort you are prepared to put into a "Z" restore Im looking forward to seeing something spectacular down the track on this forum, really wish you well with your hunt. Cheers John P.S. Is Deke a contract painter or does he have his own premises?

Sounds like a good story for a new Dr Seuss book LOL Im coming as long as everyone promises not to stone me nor the Probe I will be driving.

LMAO ! Thats Good, Soon you will have (E) Tokyo Roze's motor there with you also, hope you take good care of her.

Lurch ! Why do I have these doubts that the only women in your life are (A) Mum (B) Your Ride © The hoist in your work area (D) This forum And any other female entering this domain is some kind of threat?

Welcome........ And personally, I think the color would be unique and striking......... Cheers John

Have a look and read http://www.ehow.com/video_4426773_welding-safely-closed-vessels.html 12092_7af7fd3ebf1a3ea2f8fa19c60d3f4cb93e96dad1.pdf

The only way to answer that question is to strip back one of the effected areas and guage the spread under the paint, what I mean by that is that many of the areas have the same appearance, hence probably the same issues, if its a case that its straight out metal rot rather than rust appearing under body filler and breaking through to the surface, I would pick an area that has the most amount of blistering and remove the substrate paint and undercoat etc and see how bad the actual spread is apart what has already surfaced and then make a detirmination from there. You may be lucky and find that it is all just spot areas of rust breaking through, however the opposite side of the sheet metal may have deteriated leaving the metal thin, if not repairing the areas may be the trick and then all importantly treating the remaining surrounding metal work with a rust converter / inhibitor is crucial before resealing it all. In other words, this is a "Suck and See" scenario. Cheers John

And remember............... "I TOLD YA SO WogsRus !"

Just noticed in one of the pics its running TM/N Magna Elite Alloy wheels, if they were put on around the time it was last resprayed red, that would put it Circa later part of the 1980's - 1992. Does Steptoe have any history on the car? And the G-Nose, if its the real thing, murder for acquistion shouldnt deter you LOL I quote Ferengi Rules of Acquisition Rule 181 » Nothing can tarnish the shine of profit, not even murder. It may stand up in a court of law if you can prove that you are a religous Zealot that practices the Ferengi faith.

Go for the minor impacted one ! At worst even if it has skirt / Rad Support damage you can always find an untoched doner 2+2 assy and have it unplucked and welded on. If its a ridgy didge G-Nose "GRAB IT !" I think that last shot you posted tells it all as far as the 240Z

I'd have to agree with Steve, this one looks terminal, rust is like an iceburg, you only see 30% of it, the other 70% is below the surface that you cant see, even tell tail signs like the upper front screen turret section corner which is factory lead loaded at the panel join, in your pic its lifting which means one of 2 things, "A" the rust is so bad the lead is delaminating which, or "B" it's been bogged to bugary in the past when the car went to red from the original lime / yellow color which meant it was probably hemraging rust even then. The pic with the inner drivers door frame just in shot shows pretty nasty rust holes, thats a raer spot for them to start a rust cancer trip, if its that bad there, it will only get worse as you head south to the lower body reaches. If you could nab it for $500, at least even at worst if you did strip it down and find its all terminal you could salvage the investment you made, but any more would be a lost cause. Sorry Buddy, and dont take the opinion badly, we all try to look out for each other here. Cheers John