Sirpent

Ok so the tally so far New Old Stock BILLET LOWER CONTROL ARMS Sirpent 1 set Oldzman 1 set Tension Control Rods from Techno Toy Sirpent 1 set Lurch 1 set Oldzman 1 set And links once again http://www.newoldstockmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=14&products_id=47 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=668 Remember we just need numbers for now, if you are a serious buyer, I will then negotiate with the two suppliers on pricing including postage. Cheers John

Ok all, My evil twin from Syn-city (Sydney) and I are going to order a set of Billet Lower Front Control Arms (See pic and link below), so we have 2 sets confirmed Sirpent 1 set Oldzman 1 set Before we do, so as to get the price down as much as we can and save on shipping, if anyone else is interested, and I mean 100% interested, then please get back to me in the next 7 days, thats by the 10th of December this year http://www.newoldstockmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=14&products_id=47 Im also looking at doing the same with these Tension Control Rods from techno Toy http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=668 These are individually the only on car adjustable sets I have found so far, if anyone knows of better alternatives please feel free to post. Cheers John and Loui

Sorry Craig, i didnt mean to come across like that, but this is a straight 6 as opposed to a V8 set up, and to me that sets it apart from the U.S. and Aussie V8 or even V12 's running around, I guess I should have emphasised that in my post. And thats the main point, it's not a soft option V8 upgrade, its a ride thats had a lot more engineering put into it, as far as keeping with the cars originality regarding the motor configeration you have to admit a 4.0L L6 is much more impressive than an 8 or 12. Cheers John

Gav No doubt here, but I think this ride deserves some major attention from some of the modifier mags also. What I meant by here and afar, is here in Aus and beyond such as the States, I seriously doubt the boys in the US could phantom that a motor which morphed from what ran around in their falcons back in the day of Kennedy and the grassy knol could be a Euro killer if not 99% of U.S. built production cars in a straight line at least. The current C6 Z06 Vette in the states weighs in at 1421 Kg's has 376 Kw and around 600Nm of torque giving it a power to weight ratio of 3.8 Kg per Kw. From what I read about Kyles, he is estimating 380 odd Kw, torque would have to be 600Nm + and the weight would be similar to the Vette. Those good old boys wouldnt know what to make of this car in the States. Yeah Yeah I know, Im covering stuff that is plainly apparent, but for those newbies who may read this, what an inspirational car to set off a hole new generation of enthusiastic buildere when you put the whole package in perspective. Go Kyle !, I intend seeing this car in the flesh one day and buying you a beer. Cheers John

Kyle, As I said before, this is the best mechanical build I have ever seen in a Zed bar non, and hopefully some of the major mags will pick up on it and pay you the honors you deserve for your efforts, both here and afar. But it just makes you wonder what Ford Australia could achieve if they had the Gonads to do a proper sports coupe from scratch instead of something like a still born Capri or an imported Probe Mustang or Cougar, with this motor, they could probably achieve what the original Zed did in 71 in the states where it swept all before it in terms of value and kick for your buck. Hope some bean counter at FoMoCo Melbourne one days see's this car in an article and has a space cadet moment. Cheers John

Just ring up a Honda dealer and ask what theirs are, but I'd say that they would most probably be the same length.

Yep Same as out of the ARP Cat I posted above

Same size was used on 1986 - 1995 Ford Windsor 302 and Honda SOHC D series motors and Honda DOHC B series motors Try a Honda dealer Hear is the PDF I got the info from Opppppppppppppps Wrong PDF 12393_c80d73a35beab5d2a8385468375377b6e45c8d94.pdf 12394_94516a09ef81317da94baa047e85b24b13b2724a.pdf

Check your earthing strap, even terminals that look clean and making correct contact will deliver power until the your ignition is put to task. It sounds like you are losing conductivity. Quick check to see if this may be the problem is to earth the ground terminal on your battery to a good clean conductive point on your chassis via a good jumper lead. If it isnt the ground, or negative, then try cleaning the inside of the battery terminals and the terminals themselves with sand paper or a cleaning tool you can pick up from and auto parts retailer like Super Cheap.

Can I suggest this, even if you were to find such a course, I know that they have something similar available in the states, you would find that the practical experience you would gain would run into months of attendence. The best thing to do if you want to learn using the time honored method of "Suck and See" is to look at the project holisticly, by that I mean determine what you want to achieve, i.e. full bare metal strip down, or cosmetic work over, then identify the areas that need attention, once you have decided which way you want to head, there are enough of us here who have either worked in the trade or by default learnt by our mistakes to guide you. Mick is still in the trade, I was in it for the better part of 15 years hands on, Lurch is a freak of nature not just by his Aavatar but by the fact that he personifies the Aussie attage, "Givem some fencing wire and theyl get you across the Nulabor" (I know my spelling sucks, Im only first gen Aussie out of Euro imigrants) Show us your chalenges via pics and and Im sure you will get some excelent guidence, never look at a problem and say, thats beyond me, veryone is capable of doing things well beyond their own expectations and as a matter of fact to a standard that is acceptable if you just look at everything clinically and plot your course of action before hand. Im always ready to help if you need advise as I know everyone else is, we are a strange brand of Brothers on this forum, and every ride here has a certian degree of ownership amongst us all. Cheers John

Nice one Mick, Didnt we cover that process in a previous thread? Im thinking of doing a written / visual tutorial on Epoxy Polyester preperation, application and finishing, since you havnt stripped your panels yet why dont you do one on paint stripping also and we can add it the the Bodywork area?

To any interested members. Ive just placed an order with Craig for a replacement plate for my car, my original has seen better days with most of the black screen print destroyed. Just in case any one else is after one, you may want to place an order at the same time. Cheers John

HEY Lest we forget, us older Z drivers that is, back in 83 when i stepped into my Zed after wiping off my 351 Cobra, I remember my 260Z copping hairdresser jokes from my V8 driving buddies. The Z is more respectable now, but back then it was just a rice burner to the Ford Holden and Chrysler boys. Nice ride spit, now put it away for about 20 years, and get your butt back in a real hairdressers ride......LOL Hey Lurch, welcome back, missed your Banter on the forum the last few days, how did the Nail Technicians Seminar go in Canberra? Cheers John

Welcome, And dont fret, there are a few of us here near your vintage, Im sure my evil twin from Sydney, OldZman, will also say hello once he gets back online. Cheers John

Thanks Buddy, Ive seen the 240Z type but never the 260 type, do you have a link? cheers John

Sorry Mick Remember I have the original issue L26 matching pace maker numbers to the chassis, after the triple webers are fitted Im sure she will be smiling again.

LOL Yep that's the infomous Tokyo Rose.

Ok, I did a quick search on the forum but didnt find anything to say this had been posted before. I was surfing the web this afternoon, and came across this, read the part that states "I am having plates reproduced for my Tatra 603 and Datsun 260Z" at the end of the opening paragraph. Does anyone know this "Z" owner, is he a member here? Cheers John http://74.125.153.132/search?q=cache:uheRT3ootlgJ:ww.ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D20%26t%3D5987%26start%3D0+DATSUN+VIN+FONT&cd=5&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au

Hmmmmmmmmmmm Me thinks Mick is stripping down Roze's old L20ET for spares????

Hi all, As you can all see Ive been bored to tears not being able to update anything about my build and therefore have been putting my 2 bobs worth in other threads while as I have been waiting for my mate to come around (The PPG Rep) and give me some direction on the best way to seal up the car. Well, the verdict is not PPG but Sikkens "EP Primer Surfacer" OK, so what does EP stand for, Epoxy Polyester, but suprise suprise, it also contains an etch primer component. So for all of you who may have been waiting to find out the course of action, the plan is as follows. All repaired panels can have the "EP" applied either partially or entirely, in other words, I have a couple of small areas inside the engine bay that have been repaired and had body filler skimmed over them, in this case rather than doing the entire bay, I will just apply a few coats feather edged out which I will then dry sand, the good news is that while "EP" cannot, and I say cannot be applied over etch primer, it can have a covering coat applied over it, so the plan is that once these repairs are preped post sanding, I will then etch prime the remaining exposed metal in the bay and then apply 2K Sikkens primer of that, this will mean a hell less material to apply and rub prior to final finish. With the outer panel, like 1/4's turret etc etc etc, I will edge to edge finish them in "EP" dry sand, then apply etch to the inner gussets seams etc followed by primer. The "Sikkens EP" has a reputation as the best bare metal primer surfacer available with exceptional adhesion properties, but as I mentioned before, you can not wet rub it, only dry, the final 2K primer surfacer can however once applied over it but you must be careful not to rub through. The materials will be delivered to me next week, and the plan is to have it done next weekend, if anyone has questions feel free to PM me. Cheers John

Rev, Guard looks good, can you PM me with a price and just confirm the Head lamp bucket mount gusset hasnt been smashed and repaired previously. Cheers john

Just a thought..... The door mirrors in that pic of the IS250 would look sweet on a Zed considering they mount to the door skin and not the glass channel? Thoughts?

Loui brother, they dont.......

Rev Drivers side guard... First dibs here..... Any rust or previous accident damage How much?