OZZ240

The R33 is 15/16" Nissan also do a 1" and 1-1/16" as well but they are from different models from memory I think they are from GTR and 300ZX (Z32)

I've just done the R33 M/C and Booster (ABS) upgrade to my 71 240Z. My brake setup was 1" bore M/C on a std 240Z brake booster running Z32TT front and rear brake calipers, it was ok but in the back of my mind I knew it could of been better. Now with the upgrade to the R33 M/C and booster the brakes have come alive and are phenomenal. Brake peddle is sensitive compared to the old setup but easy to adapt to the new brake peddle feel. I followed the information/installation notes from the above post from Missinglink and the install went well. General info: Took me approx day to do the install. The M/C and std distribution block (underneath the M/C) both have a M10 x 1 Pitch thread for tube nuts. The M/C and std distribution block both use a double flare.

No problems just pm me your postal info if you ever want one. I cross referenced dinoplex list of parts to Jaycar part numbers so can give you that info if you want. Also some of the parts from Jaycar come in packs of 5 or more so can give you some extra bits too. I made mine up on a experimental board as I could not make it as small as his. One tricky part I found was where exactly to connecting wires T1 & T2 inside the tacho but once I got that sorted it was all good. If you have any questions happy to help. I'm running a PS1000 and I can't believe how stable the tacho needle is now. I used the Haltech ECU manager to calibrate the tacho.

I made this universal circuit board from dinoplex and it worked a treat cost me around $30 in bits. Good thing is the info and circuit diagram is free, the guy answered my questions quickly too http://www.dinoplex.org/tachoconversion/ You can use this circuit board to •repair a tacho with broken electronics by exchanging the circuit board •adapt a tacho to a different input signal type (Coil input, Points Trigger, Electronic Ignition and ECU Signals) •convert a 4 or 6 cylinder tacho to an 8 cylinder engine or vice versa I'm running a VG30 & Haltech so this was perfect for my application. Was able to get most of the parts from Jaycar, the only parts they didn't have was the CMOS dual precision monostable multivibrator (min order for these was 25 at 48 cents each so if you want one let me know I have plenty spare) and Low Drop fixed voltage regulator 8V. Sourced these bits from RS Components. It took a few hours soldering but I got there in the end and happy with the end result. Ian

Congrats on your great buy, very nice and very jealous

I'm using LS1 coil packs from a V8 Holden Crewman, they have a built in ignitor, I got mine via eBay secondhand cost $140 for 8 they are a really good coil pack. I'm not using Megasquirt but a Haltech.

Would a coil breaking down cause these same issues?

Powell Industrial are hose and fitting specialist they are on Robinson Road At Geebung or Postie Street at Coopers Plains sell lots of fittings that could possible help you out, I used them with my engine conversion.

If they use a flat bed truck/tow truck and a winch not much is going to stop them. If they really want it they will find a means to take it from you

It took a few hours to build the circuit but found it interesting to build and learnt a bit more about my Z

I'm nearly at the end of my engine conversion and wanted to use all the standard dash gauges but my stumbling point was the factory tacho as I found out the 71 240Z tacho uses a inductive loop to pulse the moving coil in the Tacho which moves the tacho needle. I'm using a Haltech PS1000 for my engine management and also using 6 LS1 coils as part of the ignition system, the Haltech only has a tacho output which only drives a electronic tacho so its no good to drive the stock tacho at all. After a lot of searching I came across a website called "dinoplex" this guy had the answer for my problem it's a DYI Universal Tacho circut board he has a list of components required, circuit diagram and info on how to build your own Universal Tacho board. I've been able to make his board without ever making something like this before so with my very limited knowledge of electronics which is none and my average soldering skills I got it to work and calibrated. I brought most of the parts from Jaycar except for the CD14538BE CMOS dual precision monostabile multivibrator and the L78L08ACZ Low Drop fixed voltage regulator 8V. I got these parts from RS Componets, alternate supplier I found for these items was Element14 approx cost for all the components was under $30 easily. I used a experimental board from Jaycar as the circuit board. I'm not mounting the universal tacho board inside the standard tacho as I could not make it as small as he was able to so it will be located external of the tacho and hide up under the dash somewhere. Once you have made this cool little tacho board you need to modifiy the Tacho internals. Remove the gauge from the dash and the black plastic lenze cover. Next remove the tacho mechanism from the gauge housing, YOU DO NOT need to pull the tacho needle off at all. To get the tacho mechanism out, on the back of the housing are three threaded stud terminals and 2 Philips head screws, remove the wires of the three terminals and remove the 2 Phillip head screws mine was stuck so a little bit of heat from the wife's hair drier on the back of the tacho housing and it fall out very nicely. This is where the instructions of where the universal tacho board output wires named T1 & T2 gets vague but found out that these are soldered to the moving tacho coil "+" & "-" terminals which are found just behind the gauge face and have a "black" & "red" wire connected to them this is where the T1 & T2 wires go from the unerversal tacho board. Once you have these connected up you are finished with the internals of the tacho and now can be put back together. I connected the Haltech tacho output to the Universal circuit board and then used the power and earth that the standard tacho use to power & earth the universal circuit board once this was done started the car and found that the tacho did not work so swapped T1 & T2 around started the car again and it worked so was very happy with the end result. The tacho needle is very stable too. This is some info I copied from the dinoplex site. This guy does other bits and pieces for Ferrari and other Italian cars some interesting stuff he does http://www.dinoplex.org/tachoconversion/index.html The scope of this project was the design of a DIY universal replacement circuit board for electronic Veglia tachometers made in the late sixties to early eighties. The circuit is easy to assemble and based on standard 'wire through' electronic parts which should be easily available via electronic stores and mailorders. Cost of the electronic parts was around €5/$6 at the time of writing this article. Please be aware that this is a DIY project, i don't offer prebuild circuit boards. This circuit will work with most Veglia tachometers as well as with Smiths RVI/RVC and Smiths derived tachometer designs. This board can be used to repair your existing tacho and this universal tacho board can be used to - repair a tacho with broken electronics by exchanging the circuit board - adapt a tacho to a different input signal type (Coil input, Points Trigger, Electronic Ignition and ECU Signals) - convert a 4 or 6 cylinder tacho to an 8 cylinder engine or vice versa Features and Specs - Compatible with most moving coil tachometers - Enables a tacho to be calibrated for a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine - Trigger input via the coil 'minus' terminal, points or from an electronic ignition tacho signal - Supply voltage input stabilized and protected against wrong polarity, voltage spikes and line noise - Cleans and stabilizes the input signal via a Schmitt-Trigger circuit - Drift (output variance) less than 2% in a temperature range of 0-80º C - Minimum supply voltage 10V (typical 12V) - Minimum input trigger signal voltage 4-5V (typical 12V), trigger signal duty cycle 2%-96% (typical 20%-50%) - Pulse width for output signal can be set from 1.0-2.0 ms via R1 (Veglia requires 1.4-1.5ms, Smiths 1.8ms) Hope this helps someone now or down the line. Cheers Ian

and you can buy the stuff from here http://www.alsacorp.com/products/chromefx/

Did/do you use the Z31 front shocks front and rear in the 240Z struts or use something different for the rear?

Thats why I said go see/find a engineer and find out what the go is

Hi Guys, Don't know if its general knowledge but the National Code of Practice is coming in on the 1st November 2012 after this date you are pretty much screwed if you want to do engine conversions and full roll cage BUT PLEASE IF YOUR IN THE MIDDLE OF MODIFYING YOUR Z GO SEE/FIND A ENGINEER and find out what the go is Engine conversions for example 240Z can only be fitted with no larger than a 2.8 litre turbo motor or 4.2 liter NA, so if your in the middle of engine transplant bigger than what I've stated you had better hurry up and go find yourself a engineer and find out cut of dates etc. As I've heard that if you start prior to the 1st November 2012 you will have 6 months to complete your engine conversion and have it all signed off etc. Full Roll Cages Will no longer be allowed after the 1st November 2012 but a 1/2 roll cage is ok as they will no longer allow any structure in front of the B pillar so if you want a full roll cage you had better get one of these installed as well. I thing other that this there is not to much else to be worried about. And again I say.... BUT PLEASE IF YOUR IN THE MIDDLE OF MODIFYING YOUR Z GO SEE/FIND A ENGINEER and find out what the go is Cheers Ian

PM sent

Do you still have the voltmeter / fuel gauge ?

Wanting to buy 260Z voltmeter / fuel gauge as I want to replace my 240Z Ampmeter/fuel gauge Thanks Ian

Hi Ryan Yes it is still avalibile and have no problems with mailing it to you. Will give you a ring sometime Monday Cheers Ian

I have a Megasquirt II EMS kit for sale it includes 1 x MegaSquirt II Programmable EMS, PCB3.0 unassembled kit 1 x MegaSquirt stimulator kit, version 2.2 - assembled 1 x 1.8m (6' ft) DB9 Male to Female straight thru tunning cable 1 x AMP Metal DB37 Cover with hardware and gaskets 1 x 3.6m (12' ft) Wire bundle - same wire used in harnesses, colour coded and printed labeling. Great for building a harness or wiring up a relay board $300 ono Location: Brisbane, Local area: Aspley 4034 Local pickup or Happy to post within Australia - buyer pays for postage Cheers Ian

pm sent cheers Ian

Have you thought about getting it re-sleeved? you should be able to take your old one to any brake shop and they could get a stainless steel sleeve stick in it for you, cost to get done at a guess around the $100 mark and will never pit or rust again, possible/if not better than new

Hi Whittie, Its for a friend of mine and unsure if there is any difference in the diff housing either he just said he was chasing a R200 out of a Z31, will have to ask the question. I need to update the info as he only wants open centres I think he must have LSD internal. Cheers Ian

Looking for a couple of R200 diffs out of Z31's with diff ratio of 3.5 with open centres as already have the parts to make them LSD and does anyone have one or two or where I could find one or two? also possible a set of axles as well out of a Z31 turbo Cheers Ian

It looks like I need a charcoal canister to go with my engine transplate in my 1971 240Z, can I use the 6mm tank return line that the SU carbbies used as my tank line for the charcoal canister? What have others done with their engine conversions that require charcoal canisters Cheers Ian