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thanks guys ... I agree, it is a nice looking one .. and it cost me over a hundred bucks .. Having said that, I did have a look for a 'good' oil catch can and the ones on rocket industries have the exact same side level set-up, including blue plastic bands at top and bottom, and the same brackets etc as mine came with. I have a look at ebay and there are some crappy ones on there too .. I think the one I have is as good as i need. I will however be sure its installed right, and not out in the middle of the place (james Flett has one that sits right beside his radiator which works well), and mine actually might even end up with a valvoline or similar racing decal on it anyway. As for the tube, i'll look into using something a little more suitable. Rb30X, what is that colored exit bayonnet that you mentioned ?? what would I need another bayonnet when the factory item is in place? Thanks again guys. Adam

Thanks Guys .. Lurch, does your stock set-up have slotted rotors? I have heard from several owners of cars with slotted rotors that the slotting actually helps to cut out the noise on racing pads, as under normal use the different pad material in racing pads tends to glaze up. The slotting has the effect of cutting, or slicing this glaze off, and actually stopping (or lowering it) in the first place, as the slots get rid of the hot gasses that otherwise cause the glazing ... Not having the car set up, or having run these specialist items on my car before, its all hear say. The other thing i'm planning on considering is the 'fade stop brake cooler' (FSBC) that is an external heat sync that actually cols the pad, thereby helping the whole equation. By all accounts, running slotted rotors, EBC greens or Ferodo's, new brake lines, the best fluids and FSBC's the 240Z does incredibly well on tracks, especially under group SC type regs ... Anyway, its all ahead of my now anyway Cheers Adam

Hi there. I'm going slotted (but standard size) rotors for my 240Z and I wanted a better / performance brake pads. One brake shop mentioned EBC green stuff .. and I went and had a look at the description on the web. They do look good, but for a hot 240Z do I go green or red stuff anyone had experience with better brand / performance front brake pads on standard calipers? what is the right choice? Cheers Adam (the Brown Hornet)

OK .. here is what I bought, as I said, its pretty neat, and is very well made .. The issue with it is I have three OER's, and the inlet man would need a hole in it to re-route the bottom pipe into it. Anyway, tell me if you think this is one of the cheaper ones .. interested to know your thoughts? Cheers Adam

Thanks guys .. and NO .. not a dirty Chinese thing, this thing is polished aluminium and it has the clear indicator tube on the side too. the quality is about 12/10 and its very neat... I think it'll look awesome. I got where the two top lines come in, one from the rocker cover, and one from the block... but to what do I attach the small lower exit to I'm wondering where the oil drains to Cheers

Hi there .. I bought a really cool aluminium Oil catch can from Japan and the bottle has two top pipes, and one small bottom out pipe. It also came with two rubber tubes, that appear to both connect to the top pipes. I did not want to just put one of those filters on the top of the rocker cover. It did not come with any instructions, so can anyone run me through how to install it and where to connect the pipes ... Obviously one goes from the rocker cover to the top of the bottle, but where does the bottom pipe route to? Do i need to put a hole in my sump ?? do i route into the side of the block somehow, or into the oil filter? its obviously only gravity and cranks pressure driven, so any ideas on how to do this right would be great. Cheers. Adam

agree with your view there Mike .. I have the 280Z dizzy and have been considering the MSD 6AL, but after doing the homework, the later digital units are significantly more advanced. If you are going down this route, have a look at the MSD 6AL-2. It has more power than the analog 6AL, and has an externally adjustable RPM dial, not chip like the early ones. The next step is the '6 AL-2 Programmable' that allows you have have multiple step RPM cut outs and is laptop compatible. There is a great you tube video I found .. look up MSD and you'll see it. At the end of it all, i'm going to stick with my Nissan Coil, and 280Z dizzy and see where that leads me .. if I need more go, i'll investigate at a later time.

Hi There, Has anyone bought stuff from Black Dragon, and in the case of their engine and transmission mount isolators, are these OEM or aftermarket? Does not state it on the site and I am not sure what their quality is? Cheers

Mmmm think I might have to get the Hornet out for this one !! Drove those roads many many times in my younger days... sounds like a must do drive !

this has to be in the top ten ever ! 1967 Alfa Stradale

Hi Gus I filled all the holes and cracks with plastic putty and araldite. There were cracks in the corners, and at the rear where the holes had been made to hold it in place, so I made up some braces out of aluminium plate and glued them in place underneath. Sanded the whole thing, undercoated and painted with matt enamel. I asked Nat, and he suggested this was the best way to go. Having let the paint dry and then sanded it several times, I can see it is very hard and durable. Sandpaper required a bit of effort just to shift it. I'll make up either a rubber or leather pad for the rear of the console to protect the new surface and that should do it. Also considered getting Nat to spray the whole thing in clear satin coat two pac ... still might do this depending on how it finishes up. cheers

Week 58... Had the day off work, so spent some more time of the centre console .. Ok so its not a professional job, but from what it was to this is a big improvement. I even managed to work out a way to reinstate the chrome strips on the Choke / Throttle lever plate. Not perfect yet, but its getting better. Need to get matching screws for the coin tray and rear mounting holes (to be drilled) and then it should be right to go. I also finally got my seat back adjuster centre caps (i had the circular adjuster dials) from offshore .. They were a little dull, so got a lick of paint too. Am ordering some more bits and pieces from Japan at the moment, including 5-speed shift knob, oil tank for rocker cover vent and so on. Did not collect the engine, as Nat's working on a mate's 356, so the hornet's been moved from its usual spot. Until next post.

Wow .. solutions solutions .. thanks guys. I'll run what I have (which i think is a 3.9) because the diff seems to be standard .. If I decide I need LSD will cross that bridge when I get there, and i'm not one to burnout cars, so i'm not expecting to need anything bullet proof. My engineer James Flett uses a R180 in group SC (which he wins) and he tells me an R200 is completely unnecessary .. unless I'm going turbo power, or want to do burnouts. Again .. will consider LSD if I need to .. Thanks again gents ... very helpful.

Awesome Roberto ... methinks the 3.9 will be just the right choice for the hornet .. that is not too intense, but coupled to a nice 250hp L24, should make for an exciting ride! Next decision is the LSD ... will get her finished before I go down this route.. but I was salivating at the OS Giken LSD's last night. Cheers Adam

Hi Guys. Apologies if I have missed this topic already, but does anybody know what the standard factory fitted R180 diff ratio fitted to the 1971 240Z was? Also, was the diff's rear plate painted from the factory, or just straight alloy? I have not taken my diff apart to inspect the gears, but was there a specific diff installed for a specific year? Rgds Adam

Hey Ben ... Love the wheels mate ... F8's look hot on these cars in my view ... and yes i'm biased !

Thanks Salty and GV I actually was wondering if anybody has a photo of the console in place, with the OEM screws in place, holding the console in place? i have filled the holes (as they were all smashed up) and I am wondering how do I eventually fix this console to the car, as the factory did, when restored? I know as Salty said, there is one screw in the location of the coin tray (on the 71 console), but what is on the rear and how does this look fitted to the car? Cheers guys Adam

white is so last season Gareth ... go the change !!!!

magnificent photo .. wonder if that is a cooper S on the hill? I wonder if this photo is showing the old front end lift on the 240Z at speed? I'm presuming the car is traveling pretty quickly, and its on a down-hill run, but the angle of the nose in the air does look slightly telling. I think with the more modern lower and harder suspension much of this is eliminated (not to mention the Spook and other aero that was used in the day). Do we know if the car has any mods at all? or was it just a 240 off the showroom floor?

week 57... Again not a whole lot to see, but Nat had the factory radiator rebuilt with a new larger triple core insert, so I can keep the factory looks, but have the versatility of more cooling. I've been working on the centre console and have rebuilt the bridge between the shifter section and the ashtray section. I did it with fine three ply, and in the photos i've added you can see it in the interim stages. Today I bought some plastic putty, and undercoat, and when I take a photo tomorrow you'll see that it looks virtually indistinguishable from factory (i hope!!). As chasing up a clutch (anyone have any suggestions here - and no I don't want a brass button drift style thing .. just a good strong clutch to tame the 250'ish ponies). Have got the new master cylinder and a bunch of small parts from the US, and am waiting on new front rotors from Warren (that I will have slotted). Unless someone can find me a set of 1 5/8" Nissan competition headers (or point me in the right direction), it'll be about three months before I can get a set from the US. Can anyone tell me how the rear of the console was held to the back of the tranny tunnel? Were there simply two flat headed screws put through the console into the bracket on the tranny tunnel? seems a but messy if that was the case, but I don't know as my console had thumb sized holes in it at this position, so i'm not sure what to do here. Its hard to find a photo of a correct factory setup, of this location as well. Exhaust is all but planned and ready to go, and we'll likely collect the engine in the next week or two from James. Once that's in Nat can go about customising the shifter to fit properly. I'm now planning how i'm going to run her in .. Salty suggested a run up over the mountains to Lithgow and back one early early sunday morning ... Sounds tempting. cheers

PM sent Dazzed - I have a spare L26 lying about looking for a new home.

yeah ,, Garvice.. the joke's on me .. Think i'd need an Enzo to keep up with this thing!

The car is excellent Gareth, and I really like the carby mods. Thanks also for your assistance and advice on my project .. always much easier to do something that others have tried successfully before. Can I ask, are you sticking with the current colour on the re-spray? What type of HP is that motor putting out? and what specific benefit did you notice from those multiple carbs? Is it HP, economy, sound, or all of the above? Cheers Adam

Wow ... this car is completely amazing. Puts a little tear in the corner of my eye I can really only think of one appropriate response. wanna race ?

Thanks John I actually had two sets of those when I got my car, and they are a fairly generic design. I was really looking for equal length pipes with 29" or so primaries. I think these ones you posted are a good start, but might leave you a bit short on HP at the top. Having said that, there is no questioning the value .. that is a good header for the money. Cheers