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does anybody have a photo of the where the OEM straps were attached to in the car? I will need to drill holes, as my car appears not to have any holes for these straps. Also, are the straps used to hold down the carpet (as in, is there a bracket bolted through the carpet into the floor), or do they just come through the carpet in slits? Any photos would be helpful. Rgds Adam

I'm looking at my 240Z wondering how to correctly do the interior in OEM finish. My questions are; 1) did all 240Z's imported into Australia have the black loop carpet interior, and 2) did all cars have the straps for holding cargo in the rear, or was this just specific to the series three cars (ie after 72)? Reason for asking is; My first 240Z (think 73 model) from the early 90's had; a) factory tie straps, b) masonite round spare wheel cover, and c) loop pile carpet in the rear. However looking at Edward Lee's genuine low mileage 918 orange 71 240Z today on youtube, i noticed; a) it did not appear to have the straps, and 2) it did not appear to have loop pile carpet, but instead black vinyl as the rear shelf floor covering material. I've also noted that despite the strange holes we found (and closed) in the rear shelf area (we determined to be a tow bar mount), there are NO small bolt holes that indicate the installation of factory retainer straps. I presume the cars that did have these straps had the retainer straps bolted to the actual metal floor of the cars, through the carpet / vinyl. Hoping someone might have the correct answers on this (maybe Alan). Cheers Adam

Has anybody bought / used the replacement clear front under bar parking light lens that are being made by KlearZ in the USA. My car came with broken lens, so I need a clear lens replacement. Apart from the extremely rare and insanely priced (think $US400+) OEM items, does anybody have anything to say about these replicas, particularly in terms of fit, seal and durability.

Week 36... Just back from Nats. No photos again this week, but Nat has re-taped the wiring loom and filled a complete box of items to go the the electroplaters, inc; fuel cap, bolts, fuel lines, brake lines, hinges, locks etc etc. We also inspected the suspension and determined that the steering and sway bar bushes are nolathane, so do not need changing. Will need to replace lower control arm items, moustache bar insets and maybe a few more. If you have a preference for a brand / type let me know as I need to source these. I don't want full nolathane as this is not a race car for the track, but more a fast road setup. Any suggestions, let me know. As we're sticking with OEM brakes, we're having these blasted and rebuilt with new kits. New lines / pads / etc where necessary. The R180 diff looks like a tight unit, so this will be cleaned to OEM factory finish. Wheel and diff bearings and uni's are being checked and will be replaced where necessary. Picked up the new wheels, that turned out to be 15 by 6.5 (7.7" outer bead to bead). Despite this, they look good and the 205 rubber sits very neatly. Again 2" wider than OEM, but not extreme. Hopefully more photos next week.. Think i'll go and call James !! Adam

Here's the latest from today's visit. Once its fully assembled, we're going to make a decision as to whether it needs a shot of clear, and what buffing is needed. At this stage, its pretty much straight off the gun. Took down a box of rubber and parts for Nat and the boys to start putting on. Just also ordered new door locks (2nd hand), gear knob and master cyl caps. Hopefully we're just about there on new parts. Some parts I can't find that you may have lurking somewhere inc; 1) black caps that clip onto the circular seat back adjustment knobs (these are circular black plastic things), and 2) metal clips that hold the base of the rear tail light garnish to the car (they are welded onto the body under the tail lights - two per side). If you have either, pls drop me a PM. Next step is to get the suspension redone. Thanks to the help of nzedder, i'll be using koni yellow (externally adjustable) shocks, and lowered springs. I think I have King springs in there now, but depending on where we need to set the ride height, these will likely be cut, or we'll go for some K-Mac items (anyone used these? thoughts vs Kings or others?). Am staying away from external camber adjustment plates etc etc etc at the moment as we can add these later is needed, and I just want this thing running. Should be getting the wheels tomorrow. Nat is sending off all the metal fasteners / brackets / door strikers etc for yellow zinc plating. Ordering all new nuts and bolts for the body to ensure a tidy finish. Dash is pretty good, but might have gauges tested and cleaned. Cheers Adam

Hi All I am selling four 15x7.0" Performance five spoke alloys with tyres (80% tyre life left). Tyres and rims in very good condition. Located in Sydney. Please PM if interested. The photo is from the wheels on the car. Rgds Adam

Week 35... The hornet is being bolted back together with doors and guards on today. No photos as I thought i'd wait a week or two for some more. On another note, I bought my Watanabes today second hand but in as new condition. They are F8 15x7.5 in gunmetal grey. They come with a set of Dunlop Formula R tyres, the exact ones I was intending to use anyway. Accordingly, i'll be selling the Performance five spoke's shown in this thread if anyone's interested. I've not picked the wats up yet, so added a photo of Tomitaku's exact same wheels (F8 15X7.5). Adam

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Week 34... Just back from Nat's workshop ... its been painted. To me, the car just looks completely amazing, that is old school, period style, that is not miles and miles away from the OEM Safari beige. The colour is known only as a code, but is actually McLaren Orange, as in the factory colour that Bruce McLaren used in the late 60's and early 70's on his CanAm racers. Its distinct from the 'Papaya Orange' that McLaren used for the 1996 McLaren F1 LM. Hope you like it as much as I do! Next comes the fun part of putting the thing back together. Cheers Adam

Hi Blurat I was not planning on buying the handmade tuned length set as last time I called, they were asking $1500 for them. If you want to spend that sort of money, you can buy some very nice (Stahl) tuned length handmade items from the US for much less. At this stage, i'm planning to buy the SWR ~$400 set, which we'll ceramic coat and modify to fit brackets for a heat shield. For what its worth, unless you're chasing every conceivable HP for racing, there appears to be limited difference in using the tuned length item (from the questions i've asked). Others, of course may have different experiences. Have a look at these beauties; http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20New%20RR.htm Wonder if Santy can fit a set in his sleigh for me at late notice?

Week 29... Nothing more to report this week. Car has been covered, but I did take these photos just today, as the last ones for some reason didn't work. The hornet is in stone guard internally and externally underneath. Nat's going to paint it in three stages; 1) interior, 2) underneath, and 3) externally, once fully re-assembled. Still needs the exterior wet and dry hand sand before its good to go (and of course the $$ for the Glasurit). Cheers

Week 28... No too much to report this week, other than Nat's completed the stone guarding of underneath the car and inside. Since we're not using much initially in the way of heat shielding or carpets, Nat used stone guard pretty liberally. I took a few photos, but for some reason the camera is not allowing me to download them. I took the lights over to have Nat properly fit the rear fascia panel and ensure it all lines up perfectly. Also heard back from Watanabe Japan on the correct size and offset wheels to use on the hornet, that are also used on the green 432 that i showed earlier in this thread. Have sold my two sets of extractors to now put the money toward a modified SWR set, that James will be building a heat shield into. We're also having the new set ceramic coated to ensure maximum heat retention. Also had a look at my rebuilt gearbox and frankly it looks like its just come out of the factory. Bead blasted case is as new, as is the timing chain cover etc. Can't wait to hear this motor run!!! I'll try to get a few more photos next week. Rgds Adam

Thanks CDR & REV ,,, Both are sold !! Cheers

Alan, Thanks for the that detailed explanation, I do appreciate your thoughts and comments. As for yours, Mikes and others comments on this, I do believe its a hand made stamp using individual letters and numbers that do not exactly line up. Its also in a fairly obvious location, which goes further to explain its purpose, that is legibility, given the factory engraving is frankly pretty hard to find, particularly given its shallow, has paint on and in in, and is often covered by wires etc etc etc. Nat made the point to me that 'the Hornet must have one only stamp, so one of these must go'. Given I can be sure the firewall marking IS OEM and correct, even down to the correct (slightly italicised) font, then, folks ... HS30 - 00663 will be going i'm afraid !! Its simple, its man made, is a mistake, is NOT OEM, and therefore should be filled and forgotten. God, for a moment there I thought I could sitting on some freakshow one of a kind experimental half a million buck car ... but then sanity prevailed !! Thanks again. Adam

Week 27 ... (part 2) Forgot to mention another weird incident today.. I did not get any books with the hornet when it arrived, and it was certainly not registered, nor had it been for at least six years that I can remember being told. I have not contacted the RTA to enquire about the cars history... yet !! Nat had sanded back the serial number of the car on the firewall ready for paint, to clearly show HS30 - 00683. In the process, Nat also discovered another serial number located on the top of the drivers side suspension strut tower that neither of us had before noticed. The plot thickens, because; 1) the complete car was in one piece when I got it and showed NO evidence of weld marks or funny cut an shut business, 2) the whole car had the original OEM 918 orange underneath its current colour, and the engine bay was still in its original paint, having not been re-painted from new, but 3) the number on the top of the strut housing is HS30 - 00663 !!!!!!!!!!!!!! The three of us were completely confused and just stood there scratching our heads. We all checked the discrepancy three or so times each. How could this be, that an entirely original car have two separate serial numbers only a foot or so apart that are exactly 20 digits apart, that is 00683 (firewall) and 00663 (suspension mounting plate). Nat examined the seam welds of the strut tower and they have not been disturbed, and the original welds otherwise between the body and front members are also OEM. Apart from genuine human error at the factory (which can be done, particularly with 6's and 8's) does ANYBODY know what this could mean? I note that the stamp on the firewall appears to have been done as part of the factory machining process of the firewall (ie as part of the factory tooling), whereas the stamping on the top of the suspension mount is done by hand and shows slight movement of the actual stamps in the process (that is the lettering and numbers are slightly crooked). Perhaps the factory worker looked at the firewall thinking he saw HS30 - 00663, when infact he mistook the 8 for a 6! Can anybody explain this? We might have to call on Alan ! Rgds Adam

Nice work Mike ... Me thinks the Hornet needs one of those now !!!!!

Week 27... Following a spirited drive in a mate's 996 GT3 to get some very early breakfast, we arrived at Nat's to see the Hornet. Did not take any photos of the car this week, as its again stripped back to the shell, given Nat's been completing smoothing / detail work in the engine bay, rear hatch shut panel, and door jambs. It was a little bizarre today, as when we were driving north on the Pacific Hwy at 6.30am, we followed a magnificent E-type that was being pedaled along at an alarmingly fast rate. Turns out the car was also headed to the same place as us! When we arrived, the owner told us he had re-built the car five years ago, with extreme spec OEM 6.0L V12, tranny, brakes, suspension etc. The work was completed by 'Still One' at Granville. The penny dropped, and I instantly remembered that 'Still One' was the shop Nat opened with his brother before starting 'Gladesville Auto Body Works'. Nat's surname is Stillone. In a nutshell, this same hot jag underwent a complete nut and bolt restoration by Nat, small world! On arriving at the workshop, some new customers come in to enquire about their period rally car. It turned out the Swiss couple are doing up a Renault Alpine for tarmac rallying. Its a 1971 model, is 800kg, has a 110hp 1.4L that makes a series one Mx5 look like Mr Creote from The Meaning Of Life !! (ie extremely large). Another way to say it is, the Alpine is significantly smaller than a Lotus Elise, and looks positively undernourished compared to a 240Z. Notwithstanding, its a complete animal and sounded like two motorbikes coming up the street. Showed the Swiss couple my colour sample and they loved it. I'm of course still a little anxious about it. Nat (and my mate) overruled my colour sample with one of his own (that is almost identical) that he says will give the car much more of a lift. Here's the day's notes on film... check out the finish on that jag !!! Enjoy. Adam

I have two pairs of Genie 6-2-1 steel extractors for sale for L24-28 application. The set in the attached photo has the correct 1 5/8" (4.1cm) primaries and is in very good condition. The other set is in similar condition however I do not have photos of that set at this time. $250 each, located in Sydney.

Following a discussion on these mirrors, I discovered this in the back of the car when I bought it. I think its the correct drivers side Ford XY GT mirror, and is the only one I have. The lens, body and mechanism are all in perfect working order, but one stud has rust and the other is missing (easily rectified). Is yours for $30. Cheers

I have one of these Ford XY GT mirrors you are referring to that I'm not using on my project. If anyone wants it, you can have it for a very modest sum. Its in Sydney.

Brabham, what I had done is 'plastic chroming' which is real chrome, but done in a very different and therefore expensive manner. For yours and NZeder's info, those bars were $85+GST a side .. but, for the car that the Hornet is becoming, I could hardly add a 38 yr old crusty piece of plastic to it now could I? And yes, the car is stupidly over budget, but i'm quietly confident it'll be pretty nice when done ... even my wife has agreed it's going to be pretty cool! As for the bumper bars, the place to go to in Sydney is call 'All Metal Bumper Bars' in ingleburn. I got a quote to re-do my F&R bars, and the price was ~$350 per end, BUT this excludes repairs ... Nat reckons they'd cost me about twice this, once straightened and chromed. For my car, I think I'll go with the reproduction bars that frankly are better than OEM and are very reasonable now with the A$ at 93c! Now as for the colour, I will say this, it is a colour that is from a Lamborghini Muira, that ALSO was very very near to an OEM Datsun colour (not necessarily from a 240Z either!!). So close infact was the colour, that the names used are almost identical as well. Now that should give some of you hardened 'hornet' followers something to think about. Remember, old school 70's racer, none of this candy apple / pearlescent / metallic stuff!!! At the rate its taking me to find a FREAKING door lock, it might be another six months before we get the thing painted! Cheers until next week Adam p.s; Oh yeah, from my last check, there were about 50 factory colour options for the Miura, and then there were the customer special order colours!

Forgot these yesterday ... I spent a heap of time cleaning and polishing the rear tail lights and after re-assembly I could not bare the look of the chrome bars ... I had them re-chromed and the results are outstanding (but a little exxy). The quality and shine speaks for itself .. See the before and after shots. I taped off, primed and painted the middle with satin black. Cheers

Week 26... Been away for 10 days and returned to see Nat's completely finished the body, and is adding seam sealer, badge & mirror holes and generally finishing everything ready for paint. The car still has one more guide-coat and sand ahead of it before 800 grit wet sanding prior to paint. Believe it or not, Nat's been finding high spots this week that are now gone. Once this is complete, we'll add the stone guard underneath and inside pre paint. Colour is determined, has been tested and looks (in my opinion) very good. Suffice to say its a 70's racer and will look like it! I went to James Flett's MIA Engine Services workshop today to drop off the cam, carbs, valve springs, inlet, and Kameari parts. The block has been hot-tanked, bored 60 thou (to ~2.5l), and skimmed. Gearbox, head and timing chain cover have been bead blasted with mild scotchbrighting, giving a factory fresh satin finish. E88 head is very fresh with only one helicoil insert evident, and no other evidence of damage or corrosion. All the magic on the head is yet to occur, which will almost absorb 50% of the budget of the build. Pistons and valves have arrived, fly is 2.5kg lighter, and rods and crank are balanced, with new seriously strong rod bolts (not sure of brand). Assembly should only be weeks away. Still need to acquire extractors, and while the tuned length ones do look incredibly tempting, at three times the price of the SWR product, they're probably not warranted. I called Nat on the way home to ask him to add a few more seam welds on the strut towers, as with this engine I could be tempted to throw this car around a little more than I thought. Hopefully by next time I write, we'll be somewhere near the spray booth... Cheers, Adam