kalium

Yep Pretty spec'ed out motor though.

I used to have a GTR plenum kicking about and was thinking about how it would go on an L series... Looks like someone else also had a similar idea...

These look horn !

96 rwkw. I'd be happy if my L28E laid that down.

heh, nah fuel injection is the bees knees At the moment just curious as to the cost. I've seen people turn these into ITB's for an injected setup.

Have you been to any wreckers? 4 or so years ago I never had any trouble finding L28s at wreckers.

Just curious, how much a set of complete triples would cost ? Cheers

I'll go if only to chaparone you two... Ray

Thanks Greg. Will have to throws yours on before mine decides to randomly stuff up again.

Problem solvered! Something wrong with my fuel pressure. I'd read sometimes that the pressure regulator gets 'stuck' and you can give em a bit of a poke and that fixes em...for a while at least. Seems to have done the trick

I'd be keen if I could get my bloody car started....

www.ultimate.co.jp is the site

I Bought the boss kit off ebay for my 260z but then it turned out I didn't need it. Has not been opened, cost me $60. How does $50 + postage sound ? Ray

Out of interest how much is the reconditioning of the dizzy? Is it incuding the cost of the dizzy as well? Ray

That would be awesome mate. I'll do a few other tests first to make sure that it is the pressure regulator that has indeed gone bust. I'll let ya know.

Hey Greg you don't happen to have the fuel pressure regulator do you? Ray

I'm trying to figure out which vacuum line goes to what on my EFI manifold. I've got them all figured out except for those few which are hidden under the throttle body area. I've figured the rest out from photos I've seen on the net, but there don't seem to be a lot of photos of the underside of the throttle body for some odd reason Could anyone tell me which goes to what? Not sure which year my manifold is from, but the rocker cover vent hose goes to the throttle body. So whichever year that one was.... Cheers!

I was talking to my mechanic mate today and told him about the symptoms of my car and he said it could very well be the air flow meter. I will check mine tomorrow and hopefully thats all it is. Ray

Well Zero advance on the distributor anyway. Oh yeah it makes very little power, but at least it doesnt spit and sputter and backfire.

Interesting. I pulled my timing cover off and got everything to TDC. Looked down at the timing mark on the dampener and it was nothing near TDC. Hmm, have to check the pulley....

My zed pretty much has exactly the same symptoms. The only way I can get it to run without coughing its guts up is to run it with zero advance. Does yours do the same? Ray

You adjust the Lean/Rich mix on the AFM by the screw yes? I think mine is out (mainly because I was playing with it without knowing what I was doing...). Is there a sure fire way to get this back to where it should be? It chugs and backfires downlow but then pulls up top. Cheers

Opps, not actually a one wire alternator, two wires. I had a quick look but can't find the link anymore. I remember that I wasn't able to follow the link step by step anyway, because my connections and my alternator were different to the ones that they were writing about. From reading it though I got the basic gist of how it was supposed to work. The two female spade plug that went into the original alternator did fit the new alternator, but the new alternator only had one corresponding male spade connector. I disconnected the external regulator, and on the engine side of the now disconnected regulator plug I bridged the blue wire (warning lamp) to the yellow wire (which is the female spade that is now hooked into the alternator). I then wired up the big fat battery wire to the new alternator the same way it was with the old one, and bob's your uncle. It appears to work fine. When you start the car the charge light stays on, but then you blip the throttle it turns off and stays off. Also haven't had any problems with the battery, voltage regulator reads about 14V when driving around. It's a Bosch K1 alternator, the casing says it's an 85A unit.

I Used to live in Japan and hung out with some Zed boys there a few times. There is a Z shop north of Tokyo. Called Ultimate Z or something. I saw the guys(Toshi??) business card just the other day when I was rumaging through some old stuff. Will have to have a look again. His English was OK as far as I remember. Sending emails is always a much better option than calling on the phone by the way. Much easier to converse that way if you are going to be only using English. Unless you speak Japanese or have someone over there that can get the stuff for you, I'd Just get someone like otomoto to do it for you. Ray

At the end of the day it's worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Look at the price of some old falcon or holden sedan from the 60's/70's. Some of those fetch a huge price. They were just a run of the mill family sedan back in the day (even lowlier than a cheap sports car!), but you wouldn't think so from the price of one in good nick. There must be some kind of demand for them. It's kind of like a game of attrition, the buyer vs the seller. Can the seller afford to have the car on the market longer than the buyer can afford to wait for another suitable one to come along....