Zedman240®

My system with the Wolf can be run in closed loop mode with the only thing needed to be added is the oxy sensor; wires and plug is there just no sensor! The way my system works is as you said; throttle position versus engine rpm. Load can be worked out so injector times can be programmed.

A member on this forum (but hasnt been seen for quite a while; Stavros) has a JDM 260Z 2+2 with an RB26 but previously to that had a injected L20A engine. What was strange was the module for the distributor was in the passenger side footwell and it had a range of different brackets and components I have never seen on any Australian models. He also has big polished F90 17" Simmons wheels..anyone seen him lately?

Great news.. I remember I took mine off the road when I had it registered; started the bodywork and mods. As soon as it was finished, driven and raced straight away!

Sometimes that felt thats in the window frame chanel hardens up over time making the window hard to move. You can buy that stuff new from Clark Rubber? Also there are adjustments for the window to make it tilt in or out; you will see a slotted bolt thread and a locknut. If you still can't get it, and if the car is driveable, take it to Rob at the Z Factory. He can do that with his eyes closed and one arm tied behind his back.

Not a problem.. and Thanks for the offer Loui, you're a gentleman!

If Nick doesn't grab them, I'll be interested...

Since there are six individual air inlets, you have to place it in an area of air just before it goes into the trumpets. If we were running plenum chambers like a 280ZX manifold, then yes, you screw it into that. If you thread it into just one runner on the manifold, it (the ECU) will base the fuel map on the running of that one cylinder. In the air stream in front of all six, will be a better average.

I just have mine on a little "L" shaped bracket bolted to the side where the coil used to be..

There's definitely going to be a meeting next year at the Datsun nats..near you! I'll be there.

A friend imported a 240 from the US and that had a label on the airbox on how to operate that "Winter/Summer" switch that either gets the air from around the exhaust manifold or from the front like our Aust delivered zeds. But since our airbox's don't have that switch, there was no label?

Looks like a good project to start with; a complete car! Last zed I put together was only 80% there. Took months to find all the glass, fuel tank etc.

Not sure of the model; bought it from a shop that no longer exists about 12 years ago! It's a Velo wide version (if you see me you will understand) and the seat mounts are just your regular race seat mounts with the various holes for adjustment. Made by Steve Newing and sold by Revolution Racegear. Used some 8mm alloy plate bolted to the original chassis seat mounts without rails. Passenger seat is a Velo "Milano" that is FIA approved and from memory paid about $500ish ex demo?

Heres a pic of my bay; you can't see the back of the alternator, but the diode is inline on the T shaped plug. Here's an exert from my details of the 280ZX Alt to 240Z wiring guide: When an internally regulated alternator is put into an early Z and the external regulator is removed, you often have the problem that the car will not shut off when the key is turned off. You have to put a diode in series on the wire that goes to the "L" terminal on the back of the alternator. The "L" terminal is the bottom contact on the "T" shaped connector. You have to connect the cathode of the diode (identified by a stripe on that end of the diode) to the "L" terminal and the anode (other end of the diode) to the wire that previously went to the "L" terminal. In my case (71 240Z) this was a white with black stripe wire. This prevents the "L" terminal current from feeding back into the ignition circuit when the key is turned off. The diode I used was a 1N5402, other people have used a 1N5400 or a 1N5062. Easy fix to a vexing problem. Side note: when I fixed this I connected the Yellow wire in the harness which leads to the alt to the "S" terminal (top of the "T" connector) on the alt - PO had spliced white/black wire into both the "L" and "S" terminals - my under hood light started working. WHOOOHOOOO!

Eventually I did take a pic..here it is and hope it helps!

All 260Z's had the flat top carbies and the vapour lock problem until the flutes were put in as per Dale's post.

Bruce, where did you place the diode? at the plug where the reg was or at the 2 pin "T" shaped plug on the alternator? When I get home, I'll take a pic to show how I did mine.

I think from Oct 76 on, the flutes where on the bonnet; before that non-fluted.

I use Photoshop; but any half decent "paint" program should be able to do it easily..

Ohh..I just went through there tonight! I can be backup just in case...

Just sent the PM but found the thread I started.. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5537.0.html

The original Nissan factory ones are best, but if you can't find one, a Haynes will have to do. Just keep double checking your work and make sure everything is safe.

If you do decide to DIY the work, I highly recommend a workshop manual. First thing I remember doing was a headgasket on a early BMW in my early teens. Just read the manual several times and did it. But if you don't have tools and a good, dry area to work in, you don't want to start and quit halfway; it will make everything craploads harder..

Welcome and I think many members wish they had you as a next door neighbour! Or move in with you if you had a baking oven and spray booth....hehehe

Bruce for the voltage reg plug on the loom, connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input. Then connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. That should be it!

It's enough to boil the blood isn't it? Car yard must be kicking itself too...