herrods

In answer to your question Sir Ricer, I did say that I was going to pourchase a short throw, but never ended up going through with it. As far as everyones questions about my "option" box, what I was referring to was that it was not standard, which is reflected in the specifics below. I was not aware that there was a box made once called an option box, and apologise if I mislead you Anyone who called me, if you are still interested please call me again, I had an unfortunate "phone meets water" episode last week on my trip away. PICS TO COME ASAP! Some updated info and questions answered. - Camshaft Specs: Figured are original followed by new cam shaft (so you can see the differences) OR NEW - intake duration 248 270 - BTC intake opens 16 27 - ABC intake closes 52 65 - int center angle 18 18 - exhaust duration 248 270 - BBC exhaust opens 54 65 - ATC exhaust closes 14 25 - exh center angle 20 20 - lobe centres 109 107 - valve lifts (all standard) all timings above in degrees Transmission: 32010-N3130 Factory Competition (close ratio) 1st: 2.906 2nd: 1.902 3rd: 1.308 4th: 1 5th: 0.864 (when running through 280zx R200 diff) final ratio is 3.7 Parts and specs in engine: - 6B1171-STD ACL conrods - 6KRY2700 ACL L28 Piston kit - 7M1172-STD ACL main bearing - BPK20 6cyl brass (dunno what this is) cost was $23.80 - GC380MT ACL full gasket - NTK7 Nissan Powermax timing kit () - SERVICE Rebore and hone 6 cylinders - SERVICE Polish 6 pins and 7 mains - SERVICE Surface grind 6 CYL head Total Motor Cost (as per reciept $3549.02) - Supply and fit Sports extractors $880 - New Clutch installed (standard) with motor Gearbox work: - Dismantle gearbox & inspect - replace bearing kit - STEEL SYNCHROS FITTED (assume replacement standard for standard of porsche synchros? ALL OF THE ABOVE INFO WAS TAKEN FROM RECIEPTS AND PAPERS PROVIDED WITH THE CAR UPON PURCHASE

I must apologise profusely. There has been a massive response to this engine/gearbox package, and I couldn;t figure out why. I made a typo, and a fairly consequential one at that. The price to be put there was supposed to be $2500, which has since been edited. ONO of course, sorry to lead you all down the garden path. As I said it is driving, and I have reciepts for all the work with parts reciepts too, will go thru and find everything specific and post tonight 0425 387 633 - Please CALL if you have any firther questions or wld like to talk about it Cheers Herrods (dave)

Hey all I have a 1979 L28 motor and 5spd gearbox for sale as I am converting my 260z to somrhting a little.... less neaturally aspirated Details: 1979 L28 motor - Motor was built 10,000km before I bought the car, and has done about 30,000 total now. - Serviced every 5000km driven probably 3 days a week. 1979 Closer ratio gearbox (how it was described to me). I'm no too sure on the details of this but I will grab the numbers off the side of the box when I get it up in the air. AT THE MOMENT: The car is still running and still being driven, which will continue for the next 2-3 weeks, so if you want to come have a look/drive it working in a car, then you are most welcome $2500 for the lot, Dont want to split it up. Contant me here or via PM for more details or with any questions

The short shift kit was ciming from MSA www.thezstore.com but it has since been put in the OH NO the economy *explosion* basket along with the rest of my hard earned savings which seemed to halve on their trip across the atlantic.... short shifter to come, but for a Skyline gearbox many many moons from now.

I do indeed, how did u go with ur enquiries there? oh and I cant remember if it was you or someone else who was asking but I have gone with a sony headunit and not the retrosound model due to cost and not enough info on it. trying to make that fit without ripping too much apart at the moment.

well its been a while since I updated this, mainly because I have ben having such a time putting all those parts in. The MSA stage 1 disc conversion is in at the back, along with the urethane bushes, that was not too hard except for the removal of the spindle pin. On another note, my bushes all round the car were impossible to push out. Friend of mine had a shot with a 5 tonne press and nothing, had to burn them all out. Front brake upgrade went it substantially easier. MSA instructions were very good and the fabricated parts were good quality. Was a little disapponted by the quality of the supplied pads but what can you expect. Tokico Illumina shocks with springs were easy enough once I sorted out what was on the car. I had one fluid filled (drivers side) and one gas filled on the front, and all 4 were collapsed to the point that gravity was stronger. no damping/resistance AT ALL. Car sits about an 1" lower at the back and 1.5" lower at the front So far everything I have come across that was wrong is a result of somebody butchering something to make it fit in a previous life. pics and an update once I get it back on the road to come.

I was thinking about this, aseeing as I had the saeme problem recently. Mine was solved with a dead blow mallet with a fibre head and my bicep. I was thinking if you made up a nut with a loop on thre end of it you could get away with using a slide hammer. As far as putting it back in I STRONGLY suggest putting it back together on the bench as a full piece (strut tower and control arm) due to how hard it is to realign the holes when it is in the car, (truxst me i know I found this out last night first hand

Well soon after posting this i found several posts covering the same thing. my seach terms (thingy, stuck, pole, arrrrrgh) werent accurate enough anyway, i pulled the whole control arm out and intend to bash it out with it off the car as i have already stuffed the threads so i need new ones anyway. As i was looking at it, i would say a threaded cylinder that can be screwed on, with a loop welded into the end of it, and then the use of a slide hammer may also work, not sure if that would work or not, but but in my head it sounds more simple than the thread pulling idea.

Hey all, I have gotten a little stuck dismantling the rear suspension components on my 260. Im trying to replace brakes (conversion to disc) springs, structs and the bushes. So I need to pull the whole thing apart. I have gotten to a point where I have to pull the strut/brake assembly out of the car. I have the service manual and teh Haynes book as well, but neither are helping me. There is a spindle that connects the bottom of the brake/strut assembly to the lower control arm. The books both say to undo the bolts on both ends, and the locking bolt in the middle and release the locking pin, (all done). Then it says that the spindle can be pulled out. Pulled out turned to tapped out, which turned to belt out, it moves about half an inch in either direction before it stops like its hitting something, but I cant figure out what it is. Can anyone think of a way to remove this piece, without doing so i fear my zed will be in pieces for ever!!!

where on earth would you get that kind of a set up (the MR2 one) not that I would try to use it, but would be very handy to find out about. looks very much like a aftermarket/homemade version of the BMW idrive

Im not too keen on those rear speaker boxes because you cant get to your spare, which for some would really be an issue, but i'm just finnicky. i'm thinking of making something that recesses into the left and right extreme back corner, but doesn't interfere with the rear panel of the car, the only thing it might cover is part of the light access panels.

go karting is going to be best on a weekend. By the time we have met, and gotten out there, I doubt there will be much time left to kart.

mrp69 Yes I was talking about warren, where I put warren or MSA in front, that just tells you/me where its coming from. Im not sure exactly what brand the brake booster is though. As far as the speakers go, my last set of 6" went in what were designed as door pods, and were mounted to the carpet by means of a sandwich plate, directly behind the seats. They were on a small angle, and the sound crossover was at about head height between the seats. Not sure where they will go this time, But I am thinking the same again because they were out of the way, and the only cut i needed to make was a small X in the carpet so that it got out of the way of the wiring. They were basically on top of the 2 storage compartments, and to get to the storage compartments you just lifted the carpet and the speaker together. I know that sounds dodgy, but they were secure, and didn't get in the way. There is also a set of 6x9's that the previous owner mounted in the rear quarter panel pieces, because the pieces are curved (where he mounted) they speakers rattled and were not held in place very well, I haven't decided where to re-install those, but I'll keep you posted. The amp I was considering doing a false floor either in the spare wheel well (remove wheel permenantly) or possibly (and this thougt came to me just then, doing a stepped false floor between the shock tower, so as not to lose any boot space. The reasoninbg behind a false floor/hidden amp location is because the back window of the zed's must be like window shopping for shady car thief types, which is where my last amp and head unit ended up meeting their hasty exit from the car.

Cheers I went to the comlaw, an the ADR sites thru a google search, but got lost first time around

Where can one find the document that peter is describing? Perhaps that way I can do some more "solid research"

Hey All, After much web trolling, research, asking of stupid questions, and all the other stuff that comes along with getting ready to play car buff, I am ready to begin my restoration/reschmick makeover to my '74 260z. Modifications to come in the next month of so are as follows. ITEM Brakes - MSA Stage 2 Front Brake Upgrade - MSA Stage 1 Rear Brake Upgrade 1 - Warren Upgraded Brake Master Cylinder - 240 z Wheel Bearings (x4) Suspension - Urethane Bushing Kit, - Tokico Performance Springs - Tokico Illumina Gas Struts Interior - MSA Power Window Conversion Kit - Corbeau GTS II Performance Seats - MSA Vinyl Replacement Kit - Moulded Carpet Trim Kit - Centre Console - Door Skins - Rear Quarter Panel Pieces - Rear Quarter Window Surrounds - Headliner replacement - Tail Light Panel Replacement MISC - MSA Weatherstrip Kit, 70-78 Z Coupe - MSA Weatherstrip Adhesive - MSA Weatherstrip rivets - MSA Short Throw Shifter, 72-1/78 Z Sound System - Retro sound Classic Look Radio - 4 Channel Amplifier - 6" Split Speakers Exterior - MSA Type III Body Kit, 70-78 Z Coupe Add Air Dam Grille Add Rear Skirt Diffusor - Konig Rewind Graphite 16x7 Wheels Hopefully, all of this will give my z's cosmetic and interior looks a breath of fresh air, and an as new feel. More details (and photos) to come, as I start on each bit. Be prepared to answer many many more stupid questions

600hp, and a daily? bunny hop much? Trust me I would love one of these too, but I also have sympathy for my... head/legs/ears... etc My Old daily s15 had 400hp, it was awesome, but was just flat out impractical, i couldn't move smoothly in heavy traffic, any bump/crack/ripple in the road would rearrange my lower half, and I did 500km a week, and the fuel bill is ridiculous. P.s What is your V8? what running gear do you speak of? how much?

I doubt the GTiR motor and gearbox/transfer case would fit east west across the z engine bay, they are big, but they are narrow. If you dont want the motor, I'll take it, motore, wiring and ECU

Wipers out of a 300zx/240z/s13 wouldn't these work? as long as you get the whole set (wipers/motors/wiring) and rejigged the wiring so as not to include the different intermittent stages, should be right... right? or am i spouting cr*p into the air again?

I was thinking the car may get knocked back, after discussing the potential mods with an engineer, he was happy with everything until i said Wilwood 4 piston. Thats when it all fell to shit. Regarding putting hilux or standard on for rego, I want to be able to get it engineered, and if the engineer's certificate says wilwood/MSA, DBA or whichever brakes, and the car has on it a different set, then the cops will pick it up. I got picked up in my last car because I had the whole lot engineered, but the FMIC on the car was a Plazmaman, and not the "Hybrid" brand which was on the car when it got the cert. Picky I know, but the cops up the way I'm normally about get a bit that way. They will check and check and check until they find a bug splattered on the wrong part of the car, and defect you for it.

Personally, I think you will be better off sticking with a RWD, less of a "too hard basket" for the AWD. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as you can switch a GTR is 20% front, 80% rear.

I see, How are these brakes designed differently so as not to need dust seals?

Hey all, Having a small issue with Wilwood and some other Brake caliper brands regarding getting them engineered for Australian Road Rules. The Vehicle Modification guidelines state that: ""When Brakes are upgraded using components or systems which were not standard options for the vehicle, an engineering certificate is necessary to attest to the adequacy of the new systems." As you all know, this means that the applicable ADR's must still be upheld by the brake system being used. the ADR for disc brakes in NSW at least (not sure if its a national requirement) states that calipers must be fitted with dust seals, which are used to prevent dust from getting between the piston bore, and the edge of the piston. WILWOOD calipers do not have dust seals fitted, no version of the calipers do. im pretty sure MSA kits don't have dust seals either. Can anyone see/know a way around this? Or a caliper that will fit onto the AZC wilwood kit, or the MSA kit, that does have dust seals? I think DBA has dust seals, and the brand (forgot the name) that is a sort of sister company to WILWOOD has too. Apart from my tendancy to try no gettinga defect slip, if a bit of dust does get in there, parking on the grass, or near roadworks, or any other bit of road grime, it can score the side of the piston, which will leave you in all sorts of strife getting the brakes to work without sticking, either open or gripping the disc.

Hey all, It seems like there is a general "can't make it" feel to this wednesday's go Karting. If its an idea people want to look at, this could be done as a sunday drive, including a stop for lunch before or after. Personally, I can't make this wednesday as I have some work to get to.

Hey all, Just thought I would put out this event Drift Australia Round 5, final Battle is on at Oran park on the 20th and 21st September. I am going out for work, and The more spectators the merrier. Details of the event etc are on this link. Perhaps anyone interested could organise to cruise there together? http://www.driftaustralia.com.au/ Cheers Herrods