HELLFIRE!

You could advertise for $6,000 and accept $5,000 Best idea is to not be in a hurry to sell, but circumstances usually throw this concept out of the window.

So is any one going to the GP this coming weekend? Somehow I managed to convince my other half (Who has fond childhood memories of KISS) to buy us tickets to Sunday which includes special tix to the KISS concert. She is going for the concert but I am going for the motor sport spectacle. I intend to get there mid morning while my other half shops in St Kilda. So are you going?

Have you tried MSA. Sometimes going straight to the source can be cheaper than paying a middleman.

^ currently my high beam switch is a toggle setup thats mounted below the stereo. I think this was done because the flick on/off function on the indicator stalk had failed. I have another entire stalk to replace it but the connectors are slightly different, this will be another job for my father the retired electrical engineer.

Thank you for your replies. How do they test a rear demister? There is a switch and I think it's connected (Haven't actually tried it) but if the hatch glass isn't fogged up then how do you know if it works. I know the heater works and I can select windscreen so thats ok. With the rear bumper I think I will just give the RTA an anonymous call to see what they have to say. Rust?,...Check Horn works Not sure about the tint issue, she dose have some and it is pretty dark. I will need to fit a standard exhaust as she is currently running Extractors into 2.5 inch tubing with two hot dogs, all in all a bit noisy/polluting. I guess I will have to contact a few more locals to see who they suggest in both mechanic and RTA depot (I have a choice between Cobram and Shepparton)

Later this year I will be registering my 260Z 2 Seater and would like to ask you lot if you know what is and isn't required when getting a roadworthy cert. For example: Do I need a rear bumper (seriously it would do sweet FA in a crash anyway) Do the Hazard lights have to work? Can I mod the front bumper? Etc Etc I'm sure there will be some obvious things that they will be very pedantic about (Do the brakes work) whilst others will be seemingly ignored. So go ahead post stuff that you have encountered when getting a roadworthy, even if you think it's obvious. The more info the better. Oh and I'm in vic and the engine is Unmodified.

^ Sweet!

Good times!

I own a 2 seater and would love for it's value to rise. I suggested that the asking price was a little on the high side because the market will undercut him. If a buyer is willing to do 5 mins of research, they will find a better or equal example for 2 or 3 grand cheaper. It's the sellers who are willing to make a fast sell and undercut the true value of a classic sports car that are the cause of stagnant Zed prices. I also own a 2+2 and love her just as much.

considering the asking prices of other Zeds, I can't figure out why he thinks hes going to get $14,000 for it. Don't get me wrong I want Zed values to go up but I think this guy is trying to run ahead of the pack. I would suggest that it's worth $10,000 at the most. He even states that the car is beggining to show paint issues.

Glad to see that you finally got your order and can now move ahead....Wont be long now!

I like it but not enough top do it to my own Zeds. I would think that water would pool and rust it out worse than the standard hatch.

You could get the 3 from half an 8 in the 280Z badge.

This is where the breaks between panels should be..... FRONT REAR

Robstar, In your most recent video you show a shot near the end of your fuel filler cap area where a piece of metal seems to be popping out of the body work. There were never any badges in that area and your filler flap is in the correct position. It is as it looks,....Bad, some one has attempted to fix either rust or dent by welding a home made patch onto the body and then painting over it.

I spoke with the ZFactory the other day and was impressed by his attitude. He was talking about expanding the listings on the on line store.

Had the car for about 8 years. will get resprayed at the end of this year. All work has been done by professionals, ie not me. I have done some minor plug and play things like the rear louver.

I think you will need to spend $6000 for minimal rust and quality. Good luck

The most obvious places to find rust are in the battery area/tailgate/bottom of doors. In the battery area the rust will appear as surface rust, ie it will be obvious. In the tailgate it will grow from underneath the paintwork and may appear as cracking or bubbling. Look for it on the outside below the glass and inside arround the glass. In the doors it will appear as bubbling at the bottom corners. Take a fridge magnet with you when inspecting a potential Z. All Zs will have some level of rust it's just a matter of working out what you can deal with and what you are prepared to fix. Good luck and welcome

Sure thing Aegean, here is one of the old nuts/toggles and it's mounting plate. Thanks modular, I think car colour has a lot to do with it and quality of paintwork, that is to say that if it all looks fresh then it works

That would be fantastic, of course I would pay you for postage and a bit (Adelaide to Northern Vic)

Just in case the thread title is as clear as mud I will elaborate,...The part I am referring to is the plastic assembly that surrounds the automatic shift lever. Mine is cracked where the screws are inserted and I would like to replace it. I figure since some of you have converted Autos to manuals that this part may be gathering dust in your shed.

For me this is folk lore as I have never seen the illumination module installed in a console but below is a pic of one. The red panel at the top right reads "Fasten seat belts"

Repco did have them but I ended up getting them from Autobarn. So here is the louver fitted! It's a bit weird to get used to, has totally changed the interior in the hatch area but I like it.

Welcome and congrats on your purchase. With regards to unlocking your hatch, insert the key but don't push the knob in. Turn the key still without depressing the knob, once key has turned 90 degrees you can remove the key and then press the knob.