fufu

So i decided to go with a new master brake cylinder. Should arrive next week *fingers crossed* Anyhow I'm stuck with another problem now. I kinda threaded the brake lines that lead up to the master brake cylinder. Theres still a little bit of spanner angle left but the damn things just so tight it won't budge or crack for me to get it off. I've even tried a flare 10mm nut spanner and it doesn't work either. Too tight to even budge. Can anyone advise me on what to do from here?

Hey JP240z, what sort of price am i looking at if they re-kitted it? Also do i just drop the brake cylinder there? or the car? cheers, fu

OK, definitely bad news. Brake cylinder is gone. After changing the drums to rear discs. The re-calibration of the brake cylinder has caused it not to work for the rear brakes. Dad and me confirmed it today. Kept bleeding it, with and without the engine on and it kept getting soft for the rears. The fluid level for the rear would always drop and never stay steady like the fronts. So our conclusion is for the 30 yro brake cylinder its time for a re-kit. If i can get my hands on one :-\ Welps time to move on to paint while i think about this problem.

Hi Pauly_adams, I've successfully bleed the brakes however its still slightly spongy from the looks of it, its the rear brakes that make it spongey because when i press the brake pedal a lot of brake fluid is sucked into the system about half the pot. Then it becomes really firm. I will have another go at bleeding the rears so that its super firm and not spongey like it is now. But yea prior to changing to rear disc brakes the drums were really firm after bleeding. The car isn't on when i bleed. But the car does run. Maybe I'll try it with the engine on. Oh, can anyone also advise me on how to stop this fuel smell from getting into the cabin? It's really strong smell very similarly if you stand behind the car. cheers, Fu p.s. funny story happened, i went to Gloria Jeans to get a coffee and the girl at the front after paying asked for my name to put into the system so we can get called out when our coffee would be ready. I said my name is "Fu", she asks how do i spell that, i say "F" "and "U", she says "F""N""U"?, I said "F""U". She said "OMG F U too, don't make me come around there"

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! Wishing you a merry Christmas and happy new year. Hope you all get lots of presents and that you also get your Datsun's lots of presents too. Heres some food for thought... for presents for your Datsun. From best to worse. - Full restoration including a week at the acid bathes. - Half restoration strip and quick rust repairs. - New shoes? (Nice rims) - New interior? - Engine overhaul?

Of course it's better to shop around, import monsters is just another location to find those not so easily found parts. That being said, it's like eBay and that there are ridiculously priced parts there too. But also some ridiculously cheap parts too. Depends what you are willing to pay. Need to shop around or look at other posts. But sometimes its about the same price however theres more supply than other auction sites. So it's really up to you in what you wish to get and how long you wish to wait for it. I mean if you want to spend $130 + $100 shipping for a turbo exhaust manifold from US then by all means wait for 2 or 3 months when it is listed and eBay it. Else check out Import Monsters and you could probably pick it up for $130 including postage and theres always someone posting it up. As i said before it's just another place for parts. Doesn't mean the price is right for everything. Some ridiculous prices I've seen. I mean theres a rear brake conversion package for 2000 AUD... WTF. Triple weber package anywhere from reasonable 500-3000 There are stuff thats ridiculously cheap so keep an eye out. I mean turbo exhaust manifold from about $130.

Well to begin with the brakes were excellent. Nice and firm and wasn't spongey like it is now. I just liked the idea of rear discs, less problematic in the long run. I've definitely got them on the right way i believe. The nipple is facing up. But I'll bleed them again this time looking at both pots and see how it goes.

OK, hit a bit of a snag. Prior to me touching the brake system, it actually worked minus the small leaking rear passenger drum. After i installed the new rear disc brake package (pics up shortly) i seem to have a lot of air in the system. Let's say i spent two hours bleeding today... and realized that the brake system had 2 pots to fill but i only filled 1 Silly me (assumed it was like a new car where they only have 1 pot). So i went through 1 whole brake fluid bottle, then realized that theres a 2nd pot to fill up which mainly connects to the front brakes. However if either of them is empty then you get air in both the rear and fronts? Anyways i just got another bottle and hoping to get it done tomorrow morning. Though i think doing a whole bottle did some good in flushing the system because a lot of dirt came out. I'm afraid changing the brake fluid in a 30 yro brake system would kill the brake cylinder, according to a mechanic that i knew and that advised me years ago.

Hi, congratulations on the purchase, may it bring you much joy and happiness as it does to most of the members. Of course that being said... i must shed some light. In order to get to the happiness stage, for most of us, is to go through some sadness that is the rust repair. You can check out my project in the "members project journal" section. Currently stripping back a 240Z and get it rust repaired and new coat of paint. I'm fairly non-mechanical minded, i do things with computers not cars . I found the car to be very easy to strip and reassemble. I'm sure it'll be quite easy for you to get into it. However if you need that little bit of guidance then give the forum a post theres plenty of helpful people who can shed some light. Else invest in book called "How to restore your Datsun Z-car" sells for about $35, can be found on eBay. It shows you how to break everything down into tiny parts. Also shows common rust areas. But I'm sure if you did a search on this forum theres plenty of information on common rust areas. To prevent the rust have a search on POR-15 or Rust bullet. But there are pro's and con's which have been discussed in my project journal. I have to agree with Add, if you car is in a usable state, enjoy it while you can because a lot of headaches will follow when you start opening that can of worms. I mean literally. But that also being said, it's also a lot harder now to find parts for Z's so don't leave it too late otherwise it'll be harder and longer to get the restoration part done. Oh and create a journal post when you get started and take lots of photos. Keep us posted Cheers, Fu

Hi guys, www.importmonster.com.au I've been using Import Monster for certain hard to get Z parts. They are Melbourne based company which basically has a web page that directly links to Yahoo Japan Auction and translates the description. The owner of Import Monster owns a AE86 and is on the hachi roku forum and he works at Toyota Dealer but i heard he has his eyes on a 240Z for his next car. Basically how it works is, you deposit a certain amount into your import monster account. This can be done via paypal. From there you just bid on your item, to your desired set value, and the rest will be take out of the import monster account after a successful win. There is a contact in Japan that will do the shipping in either EMS/Air mail or Sea Container. Although there are a few companies like this, this company would be the first to provide a fully functioning payment system and a browse feature integrated to Yahoo Auction Japan. Other places will tell you to look at yahoo auction japan then direct deposit money into their accounts. Not to mention they really do overcharge on items when you calculations... such companies I'm referring too are Underground Import which is based in Clayton area. I did some research before and tried to get some cheap TEIN coilovers for a 180SX and it turned from a listing price of $300 to over $1000. DAMN BUGGERS OVER CHARGING! There are a lot of products not only for Z's. Just recently i saw a used MSD ignition system, setup for L6 motors, with complete wiring and kaweari transistor box go for about $300. Can also get other bargains such as recaros, GTR engines, r200 lsd for way cheaper than Australian used market. He also does quick replies to your inquiries. I got a reply back within 2 hrs every time. So yea give them a go... i can sure vote for them. Just type S30Z or 240Z in the search column. * Just a note anything below $30AUD listing will cost you about $100 AUD to get to your house after all shipping and tax have been calculated. However if you buy stuff over $100 it is quite less, due to the fact that Import Monster charges a minimum administration fee.

Yep a 20B twin turbo setup. crazy stuff. 600hp in a super lightened AE86. So for all ye Wangan Midnight fans, thats the kinda speed they are driving at

Ohhhh nice drift spec. Want to see a Highway muncher? prepare to be blown away... Japanese take there game to a whole new level.

OK back to the project. Getting things spray painted currently. First up the rear brake calipers. - Stripped them apart - Painted them in Gold, as my car will be midnight blue wanted a color to highlight certain aspects so i chose gold. - re-assembled These have to be the easiest brakes to undo and paint. Pics of the calipers when i first got them. Just painted. End Result. Lovely golden rear brakes. Will be doing the Fronts soon when i get the new rotors. I also did the rear license plate section including the rear tail light housings. But not in gold but in Metallic Charcoal.

LOL, Fu and Tri. Such viet names... Anyways here some pics of the Trueno. It's a 4AGE motor and its only done 105 000 KM. Totally drift spec, suspension work and tuned. But one thing I'm loving is it does not have a roll cage... (WTF)? I thought all Japanese drifters valued there lives not only that but added rigidity. But yes it means i save heaps of time taking it out for compliancing. More pics of the Trueno when i receive the car.