V8Datto

This is the most addictive "small" game I've played to date http://www.travian.com.au/index.php I don't suggest anyone try it, I can't stop now. I'm hoping someone wipes me out in the next few weeks or it'll never stop.

You do need an Ohms meter when installing different speakers to different amp and head unit configurations. Some manufacturers of speakers don't specify Ohms I'm sure as most of you will know, If the speakers are the wrong Ohms, the head unit or amp will fry in a very short amount of time I'm sure James won't have a problem in his setup, best way is for him to get in there and give it a go himself.

At the very least to install sound systems you really need a test light, I've install a heap of sound systems and wouldn't bother with out a multimeter. also as soon as you get a half decent system you should have an Ohms meter aswell (resistance) I have an automotive multimeter which has everything I need including Ohms, I don't own a test light.

Is it just me or is there.....2 pedal box's.....?

When you have metals joined with a liquid like car cooling systems, the metals produce electricity causing the corrosion This is how a dry cell battery works For a battery produce electricity. The + terminal of the battery is a corrosion-resistant metal while the - terminal is a less corrosion-resistant metal and therefore corrodes. This makes the power in the battery. When the least corrosion-resistant metal is corroded away, the battery is dead. So when you think about it our engines are big batterys slowley corroding away from the inside. The best way to stop it is to use one metal for the entire engine and cooling system. alloy block, alloy heads, alloy radiator.

I'm not saying that the alloy will fail, I'm saying as a metal it will corrode quicker than the Cast iron and copper. That brown comes from the Iron block corrosion, Copper corrodes green. Electrolysis is the problem and alloy will sacrifice it's self for the other metals in the engine cooling system. that's not to say the Cast iron and copper won't rust it just slows it down. There's nothing wrong with alloy radiator's they work fine, if your worried about corrosion add Tin into your cooling system somewhere, it will sacrifice it's self for all most every metal there is.

I think you will find aluminium will corrode even before the iron block does, and copper is way above both on them

Because some pleople have nothing better to do..

How do you stop people sending false info?

Dam......... what a mission, well done. Bet your glad to be home,

I have one of them, have not idear if I can use it or not

LMAO..... nice. Question, what happens if your car is Club regerestered? I know you have to be going to or from club related stuff etc...

I have a spare compleate 260z dash thats cracked but not too bad send us a pm..

ahhh... definitely not original. It's an early 240z, and the stamp was on top of the fuel tank. Thanks for the info

Ok I've got one for you, This is the only stamp I could find after removing everything from my Z Any idears?

I'm assuming you mean.... Shirt......lmao

pm sent about rear bumper

Thanks to all that replyed, I picked up L&R 2+2 guards today, Thanks Vinny There bent and a little rusty but should be fine for the job

Vinny has sent me a PM, he's just down the road from me and has some 2+2 guards. He's gonna check them out for rust tonight and give me a call I'd rather destroy some old 2+2 guards than 240z ones, because as we know 240z are harder to get

PM sent

I'm fixing the rust in my rear guards on my 240z, Need 2x front guards, rusty and old doesn't matter. Even a little bent is fine. Any one got any old ones lying around. Eastern Melbourne

One thing that hasn't been noted yet is different brands of mig's have different amount of setting to control the power level (voltage). When buying a mig welder for the first time all the buttons and nobs on the control panel mean nothing, untill someone explains what there all for.

I have a BOC 200amp gas mig welder with normal wire and huge bottle of argon light shield. If I forget to turn the bottle back on after taking a break or something it won't weld properly as expected and yes the weld would be "wrecked" The gasless migs having a flux core wire means they should work perfectly fine Thanks for the info too Zeddophile

I've done a tafe corse in arc welding, but I'd never own or run one, there horrid things As for the gas and Mig's, with out the Argon bottle turned on I can't weld It just doesn't work and makes a huge mess. but reverendzed is right in saying that I'm one of thoes guys that's never used a gasless mig. I'm sure they work great other wise they wouldn't make them. But saying that, they make Arc welders and I think there usless

This is a very good idear, putting heaps of heat in any part of the car will put it out of shape and shrink everything, I found the best way is to do a few welds and then move to a different part of the car to let cool.