PeterAllen

I've found that many automotive businesses use the words "race" and "high performance" the same way take-away shops use "healthy" and "low fat".

Just about every GTO I know of has developed cracks between the top corner of the hatch opening and the top corner of the door opening - where the rear fibreglass section is attached to the roof. I took a different approach to standard in attaching the fibreglass in the hope of addressing the effect of body distortion but I would really like to address the cause. It would appear rear strut braces are critical, as a minimum, to the GTO but a single cross brace doesn't give me much confidence. The best I've seen so are these: http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Rear%20Strut.htm I'm just starting to make one up but I wondered if anyone has see some design which they feel might be as good or better. Thanks

I wonder if it might be worth trying to stiffen the mounting arrangement by replicating the AZC red bracket so that another bracket attaches to the other side of the calliper lugs. You would need to drill an extra hole in the new bracket to access the bolt securing the original bracket to the stub axle (or simply tighten that first) and a spacer (the thickness of the Wilwood lugs) for the upper mounting lug. If there is twist in the original AZC bracket a second bracket may assist rigidity. Mine are 4 spot and there doesn't appear to be any meat left to use larger bolts to tie the two halves of the callipers together and any outside strengthening brace would run into wheel rim clearance issue. Just some thoughts.

Roger, are you using the 4 spot or 6 spot front callipers?

You could have had both. edit - photo removed.

While the dust seals have nothing to do with pad knockback I'll just make this note. The requirement for dust seals is stated in vsb14, however, vsb14 is a guideline in NSW and not the law. If you comply with vsb14 you are "deemed to comply" with the ADR. You can comply with the ADR without compiling with vsb14. My engineer is a Canberrian and has approved my Wilwoods. Now back to pad knockback.

I can see where tying the strut tube to the large flange face of the stub axle may be effective in holding camber as the whole of the stub axle moves under load, but, the issue we are trying to address is the presumed flex of the axle shaft either itself or relative to the mounting points of the brake calliper. That is where I see stub stiffeners coming in to play. I'm really concerned about this as my wire wheels are 16" dia and weigh a bloody tonne.

Here you go. http://www.msfracingcomponents.com.au/stubstiffenerbearingspacers/ If you get a set let's know how you got on, I'd be very interested. Thanks

Okay, so you are stating they don't have dust seals rather than they don't have O rings to seal the brake fluid. Dust seals would never force the pistons back but O rings can roll as the piston moves and their elasticity can then draw the piston back when the fluid pressure is released. However, this doesn't appear to be the issue here as it only occurs after cornering. It might be worthwhile fitting springs behind the pistons (they are available in various tensions) to overcome what appears to flex somewhere in the calliper or mounting.

Can you elaborate on that? Is there some diaphragm arrangement? http://www.autolifers.com/wilwood-bbk-rebuild/

If you weigh the front axle and then weigh the whole car why would need to weigh the rear axle... oh I forgot, you're a Queenslander.

Sorry, I should have followed up on this earlier. Thanks for the suggestions, I bought 4 products for testing Someone put me on to Loctite 406. On my test pieces it was outstanding, far superior to the normal super glues. They claim you make O rings to size by joining ends with this stuff... I believe 'em. I've been able to make up a seal for my bootlid.

"Wake up Jeff". The auction was 8 hours ago!

I'm running 26" dia front tyres and I have a ground clearance of 110mm to the exhaust.

SOLD $34,650,000 USD hammer price. $38,115,000 USD incl. commission. George ($34m) Agno ($38.5m) I think they both deserve a poke in the eye.

Just a reminder that this will be auctioned tomorrow around 10:00am AEST. Lot #3 'Brabham' (Alex) is over there and will be bidding on my behalf for the 250 GTO, and bidding himself on Sir Jack's BT-33 the next day. You can follow the action live here - http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/21917/live/

Mick. I still haven't fitted the non-offset pair I have. It might be worth your while to take one to Stephen Fryer at Kirrawee and see what he would charge to make a set. I've got that book we discussed but I forgot to give you. Drop around if you still are interested.

Fabulous... love it. Keep the pictures coming so I can copy it.

Thanks Peter. I spent an hour in Bunnings today reading all the labels on adhesives and a chart Selleys had which recommended a 'urethane' adhesive. I bought this and tried it on a test piece, it has given the best results so far. Might be similar to yours. I even tried melting the join with a soldering iron... it didn't work and stunk the whole house out - I'm sleeping on the lounge downstairs tonight!

I'm using rubber extrusions to make a few weatherproofing pieces. I have purchased some "self vulcanizing patches" off eBay which I hope to use but there are a few point where these may not work out. Does anyone, including any old cobblers, who is aware of a product or technique which will bond rubber to rubber. The joins will not be under much load but they need to be waterproof. Thanks.

You need to be VERY VERY careful assessing the cost of a conversion. A few years back a friend bought a late model Mustang in the US for $32k AUS, and it cost him... wait for it...$30k to have converted. Wiring, airbags, dash, etc. are the real issues these days, not physically relocating the steering column. I've often wondered if it would make sense to buy a RHD European classic (>30 years) in the US and then bring that to Oz. I often see RHD Ferraris going for a song at Mecums .

Positioned where?

I appreciate my covers are not quite the same as the Datsun covers but the issue should be the same. I'm ready to mount the perspex headlight covers but it strikes me there could be a problem with condensation and thus transparency during rainy periods. The headlights (Moke) have a rubber seal which should prevent any moisture coming into the enclosed area from splash under the front guard but I wonder should I attempt to seal the perspex covers to the bodywork as well? If moisture does get in it will be a PITA to remove the covers and let it dry out. I wondered if I should drill a drain hole through the fibreglass under the headlight rim and allow small gaps to remain where the perspex cover doesn't fit snugly to the bodywork, creating some kind of airflow/ventilation, or will that just encourage condensation under the covers? Does anyone have experience with these types of covers or any comments? Thanks

They fit into my S30!

Think again!