mick74

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You should make/get a metal band that is approx 5mm high that fits the circumference of the opening. This fits on the inside of the leather boot and the clips hold the ring and boot to the console. This will ensure no holes or gaps between boot and console. I hope this helps.

Hi You need to wire up the inhibitor switch that came off the automatic Black/White and Black/Yellow wires are for the Park/Neutral start, these wires are part of the starter motor circuit (can be used for a kill switch?) and need to be connected to each other. Blue/Red and Red/Black are for the reverse lights and these need to be hooked up the reverse switch on the manual gearbox Try this first before chasing other issues That is what I had to do for my conversion

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I'm running 16x7 4mm +ve offset with 225/50R16 tyres on the front and 16x8 0mm offset with 245/45R16 tyres on the rear, lowered suspension approx 1". Under std guards and no scrubbing. I hope that helps.

Alex I hope these photos explain a little with return spring mount (home made) and throttle link arm. The arms I found at a carby store. Mick

I had a similar issue many years back, replaced points, leads and plugs, adjusted timing etc. Nothing fixed the problem, worked out to be low octane fuel. Now I only run 98 octane fuel. Try a bottle of octane booster to see I that helps then I would chase electrics or carbs.

To All rFactor Fans I came across this mod for rFactor that has a 240z in it and thought that this must be shared with Zed fans. http://www.mediafire.com/?ralj0s6ro3camuj For those that do some sim racing, here is an opportunity to race a car that we enjoy. Michael

Stupid question did you check if you have oil in your SU's, if not add. This can give a weaker mixture at idle and weaker mixture on acceleration. I would try to richen the fuel mixture at idle with colourtune in place and see what if any difference you get with the colour. This should eliminate fuel. Unfortunately the colourtune won't help in syncing the carbs. Then you can chase ignition ie timing etc. You can do a static timing adjustment ie turn crank by hand until you are at the desired timing point ( ignition off) for #1 cylinder (ie 10 deg) then loosen distributor and turn back until points are closed or for me sensor in dizzy is covered by shutter wheel then turn on ignition and turn dizzy forward until you see/hear spark for points or me electronic module led lights up then tighten dizzy. This should get you close enough to the mark without having a timing light. I hope this helps.

What octane fuel are you using? If you are using 91 octane try to boost with octane booster or run 95 octane minimum. I had a similar experience and found that fuel was the issue.

I have used the xr700 before going to a crane msd, worked like a charm. The only thing I upgraded after a period of time was the shutter wheel (made my own). The difference between the XR700 and XR3000 is that the XR700 runs with the ballast resistor. Running the XR3000 (this is the same for the crane msd) you might have tacho issues, I overcame this issue by ripping the guts out of my tacho and replacing with an after market while retaining the needle and faceplate of my original. I hope this helps. Michael

For those that are interested you can fit RB 16X7 and 16X8 both with a 4mm offset, tyres are 225/50 for the front and 245/45 for the back with no fouling, this is my example 260z 2+2.

There's another in the states, http://www.extrudabody.biz/servlet/the-Weber-DCOE-dsh-IDA-dsh-IDF-Replacements/Categories could possibly do a SU kit as well.

Scott For help or guidance check this link out, it will show how to setup a static IP address and also setup your router for the different port setting for rFactor. http://portforward.com/guides.htm I hope this helps Mick

Gavin I'm using IE V6, tried to open the car tabs, doesn't open "Page not found". I hope this helps. Mick

Glen Thanks for the link had a quick hook up late last night. Just a quick question is this series limited to the old ford or is it opened to all the historic cars or the cars owned under historic series. Mick

Thanks Glen for the links, downloaded ,registered now waiting for others to join. Sulio and I gave it a go last night, lots of fun . Car characteristics are close to true to life. Mick

Benzed Would you be able to bring in this rim from Rota? It's the WM7 spoke size 17x7 in -10 offset 4x114.3. I know its not a deep dish but a desirable offset. Thanks Mick.

Sach I would be looking at the basics, Rotor button for wear Distributor cap for wear Points - gap? Condensor might be no good Resistance on the coil , primary/secondary circuit. What voltage are you getting at the coil? Leads - resistance, are they the same? You might have to renew some or all the above. Regards Mick

Shouldn't be that easy but again shouldn't be that hard, I haven't put a gauge on it. If you create suction small breath this would be enough to move. Vacuum advance is approx 35 degrees in total? Mick

The benefit of using the XR700 is that you replace the points with the optical sensor. It should not be that important if you have a non std distributor. Unless you put in a performance cam and then you will need to get the dizzy regraphed (so that you get the full benefit). Remember you can retro fit the XR700 into another dizzy later on, and this way you have the benefit of using the XR700 (electronic ignition) now.

I don't use the choke, a couple of pump of the accelerator usually gets the car started. Then massage the accelerator for 1/2 a minute to warmup then she is right to idle on her own.

What are the idle jet holders that you have? What is the numbers on them.If Sulio sends you the restrictors you might have to open them up because the idle jet holder (7850.1) is equivalent to a hole of 1.2mm. You need to match all aspects of the carburretors. Chokes Idle jet holders Idle jets Air correctors Emulsion tubes Main jet Pump jets Unfortunately you cannot make any compromises, they all need to be matched. Personally I would try to find another non emission style. Mick

Mark There are 2 type of dellortos 1. With an adjustable idle circuit and 2. With a restricted idle circuit. If you remove the jet cover and see were the jets are,next to the idle jet there will be either a large rectangular hole which will indicate type 1 or 2 2mm diameter holes which indicate type 2, see photo below which is a type 2. For type 2 to work properly you will need to put a restrictor in it to close up the hole thus changing it to a close type 1. Regards Mick

Thanks for that scootag, except mine is dark green I can still provide photos if you still want, David. Mick