maddos
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Everything posted by maddos
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Looks nice. Same mags as mine.
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It's probably just as easy to completely remove your quarter window to do it. It's only 2 screws above your door latch, 2 at the top below your drip rail, then the 2 for the latch/opener. This way you won't have to try to push the seal down next to the window which might be a bit tight. The seal is just a pinch fit over the metal and pulls straight up.
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Might want to talk to this bloke. Would probably be similar setup. http://www.thezgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=946&highlight=
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I picked up 240 carbs, manifold, and stock air cleaner on ebay for $150 about a year ago and they were ready to go.(And still are)
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http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18442&highlight=clock+repair Really good thread here
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FuFu'Z 240Z Project! 56K warning... too slow.
maddos replied to fufu's topic in Members Project(s) Journal
That rust's nothing compared to my 260 2 seater I'm trying to fix. -
FuFu'Z 240Z Project! 56K warning... too slow.
maddos replied to fufu's topic in Members Project(s) Journal
Was that one on ebay? Looks like a good project. -
Bad idea unless you like the idea of oil going everwhere.
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Wow that is early. Have you registered on WA z forum. They have a bit of section where you put in your car details. Yours would be the earliest 260 2+2 on there.
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I kept the three rail when I swapped my carbs. Just need to slim down on the air lines, think my only has vacuum advance, one to the canister, and then the brake booster. You can just get a couple of brass plugs for the rear water jacket on drivers side of block and one for the themostat housing.
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Yeah local would be good but have to get the OEM rocker panels/sills. Can't seem to get them in Aus.
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I'm after some rust repair panels from MSA probably but would greatly increase shipping I'd say with size and weight
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yeah don't know what they were thinking using brown. Suppose they were the years for lovely brown, oranges etc
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The "how to restore" by mick humble (i think). Very good read.
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My 1/75 2+2 has everything the same as yours as described but with black original carpet. Probably could order what colour you wanted I'd imagine.
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To adjust where you dizzy points you have to drop the oil pump which drives the dizzy shaft. Just make sure you're on the COMPRESSION stroke of TDC No.1 when you set it up. A couple of trial fits should get orientated the right way. I assume you don't have a manual to go by. I managed to set mine up 180deg out when I had mine removed. This made No.1 fire at rear of dizzy (closest to firewall)so had to rearrange all leads around to suit because couldn't be stuffed at the time. Now that engines out, so can sort it out later.
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Chances are being the auto would be a 3.54. I didn't mind leaving this ratio in mine, I know it's not a race car, that's what my other one's for. My other car has the 3.9 and yeah you do get moving quicker but if you're after something that will cruise really well just leave it. Mine feels more comfortable cruising around town in 3rd in 60 zones.
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If your car had original motor (as mine did) I'd pull the lot, sit it in the shed and do a rebuild at your leasure while still having fun with an L28 in the car. i was lucky, my parts car had a strong L28 and didn't have to do anything to it except change the oil and wack on the 240 carbs. Now I can give it a bit of a hiding without worrying about blowing the original motor. Took me and mate Friday night and then by lunch time Saturday we were driving, this was engine swap and manual conversion. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Having cheated and transplanted motor + 5 speed complete not exactly an expert. I seem to recall reading that you'll need the flywheel off the manual donor engine. Don't take as gospel but might want to check it out. The manual doesn't tell you how to do a conversion.
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Pretty easy. After taking plastic cover off inside of boot you'll see about half a dozen 8 mm nuts. Take these off (easier with long socket) and then just pull light out to the rear. Is this what you mean?
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Yes thats the one. But not the rails and you can also see a rear wheel arch in the boot. In other shots you can actually see the part no.s still on them. He said on the forum where he sourced some parts but visited website in US and couldn't see sills listed.
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I'm guessing considering they're in sweden it either came from nissan or the US.
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Don't the pre Aug 76 latches match the 240 style?
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I'm tackling the sills on my 2 seater at the moment. You didn't happen to find anywhere that supplied the complete sill with the closed off ends and place for fenders to bolt on did you? I've asked AllZ in Sydney if theirs were complete section or just folded metal like yours but have had no reply yet. Anyone else used the ones I mean?
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Nope they have the bailey channel which I also bought off them which is good. But I'm talking about the door seals which they sell by the metre. Don't know who they source them from but they had a program on their computer which they let me look through to see what they could supply. Had a few different items and seem to be pretty well suited.
