aegean

I picked up a set of round top carbies off eBay (US$87.00) and want to have them checked out and possibly rebuilt before putting them on my 260. Can anyone recommend someone, preferably in Qld as I would like to have them stripped them down, then take the bodies away for water blasting ?

Is the front bumper amongst the parts ?

Numbers started at 0. Mine is 000692.

Sounds good. Will PM you.

They have headlight covers here, but not with the chrome/stainless surrounds by the look of it http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html

Has anyone replaced the mirror glass ? Is the glass available, and if so, how easy is it to change so that you don't screw up the day/night function ?

I was under the impression that the L28 was an L26 bored out to 2800, so I don't see why this is not possible. Likewise, you could also stroke it and increase capacity further to somewhere around 3000cc.

You need to find a contact at Queensland Transport that can track the rego number. If it was changed to a Vic reg, they should have a record of the plates coming back, and the new Vic rego number - then you might need a further contact at Vic Roads - if it is still in Victoria or still registered, or still in one piece !

It depends on how much preparation you do yourself, and what you want done. If you want all the door pillars done, as well as the front/rear windscreen areas, this means stripping the car right down, interior out etc., which is the best way. Then you have chrome/bumper removal, and engine out if you want the engine bay done. Then you have the old paint removal, etc. etc. There is a lot you can do yourself that will help with the preparation, and will save big bucks, but a rough guide is +/- $5,000. A repaint in 2 pack will cost $1500 in materials alone, so anything you can do to save time for the painter will save you money. It should be remembered that to get a successful 2 pack respray, it is necessary to go back to bare metal as the different types of paints will cause a reaction, and while it may last for a few years if you don't go back to bare metal, you will get bubbling under the paint eventually.

I have now worked out that the clock in mine is a 240z one. I guess this came from the parts bin when they started producing the 260 2 + 2 and with the early chassis number of mine, I guess that makes sense.

Thanks. It looks a little different than mine, in as much as the numbers in mine are bolder (thicker font). But I guess I could change the face over from mine. Will keep an eye on it.

Do you have a link or item number as I couldn't find it.

Great thread ! Now, what do you have to remove in order to remove the clock ?

Is there any interest in reproduction chassis plates ? I reproduce these for the old Mercedes and since my 260z plate is not too great, I am looking to replace it. I have found a company in the US that sells replacements, but only for their model - as per the photo below. To have one reproduced with GRS on it, they want an order for 100 units, and I don't think we would be able to sell that quanitity here. I can have them done individually, with the chassis number stamped (or printed) but will have to get them set-up initially - all of which means that they will cost more than the ones from the US. I estimate that it would be around $52 each, postage included. These are some of the plates I am having produced in Germany. The chassis numbers are printed in these examples, but can be metal stamped. Don't worry about the distortion - it's just the angle of the photo !

Has anyone been able to successfully repair one of these clocks ? Are they electric, or electro mechanical ? Is there a quartz movement available for them ? There is a NOS one on eBay US for $135 but the style is slightly different than mne - plus it's expensive !

So on the basis of these figures, there were 5000 coupes and 5000 2 + 2's produced (and exported ?) to Australia right in 1974/75 ?

Based on those figures, it would then appear that mine was produced in November 1973, if the average of 454 per month is applied. What do the numbers in brackets represent beside the model number - GRS30(A)(U)(Q)(M)?

Not a great fan of spacers. I think it is better to get the correct size wheel in the first place, rather than have to use spacers.

I fitted one to a convertible (Not a Nissan) and it did tighten up things like scuttle shake and improve cornering, but not so sure it would have too much impact on a coupe.

What about a buyers check list ?

Well, that sort of clears that up, but what sort of numbering system is that ! At least with my Mercedes everything is sequential and they keep all the records of build dates, back to car number 1. I have written to Nissan Australia seeking further information so will see if they reply.

I think we are going around in circles here ! That's what I said below. On the other link I provided, it also gave the chassis number range, and that is how I calculated that mine must have been produced in the first month.

I see now where you are getting the date from, but this is for the 260, not the 2 + 2.

I think you are right about the 7/74, but that is the date it was complianced. I read somewhere that they were often put into storage after production (not necessarily just Zed's) and were shipped out pretty much at random - in other words, not FIFO (first in, first out). Looks like I am going to have to get the torch out and check the number stamped on the chassis. Not sure where you got Aug '73 from. I could only find Oct '73, which seems to fit in the with the end of the 240.

Don't you mean it is 5213, not 213 ? If so, then that would make mine about right, being one year earlier. It seems clear from the compliance plate what the number is, but maybe I need to check the documents that came with the car as well - as well as the Nissan body plate, which isn't clear as the hose is in the way. Unfortunately the car is in storage so not so easy to get to.