Azon

From I understand the Nissan never made mounts to fit Rb into S30, only Z31 which are a completely different chassis? But nonetheless I am glad to hear you are not experiencing any plastic defomation in the chassis - do you have a a half - cage and is your chassis spot welded at all?

Did you have to do any chassis mods to get your car engineered? I am just really worried about twisting my chassis with the new torque :/

Yep turbo cars are addictive :/ The Rb are higher revving because of shorter stroke - 86mm/86mm square bore/stroke for SR20 vs 78/70 for RB20 and 86/72 for RB25. But torque of SR20 is only greater than that of a stock RB20 thats about it - other RBs have obviously a displacement advantage over SR.

Wow that looks awesome - good to hear you finally got the wheels.... and the black centres look much better than silver in my opinion (i will still put them on even with the silver centres any day though ) Your car looks awesome with this color combination - very distinct After seeing your wheels with black centres I am even more sure in going the same way with my wheels - should look good against yellow.

Yeah that looks cool, and another interesting one: http://www.wiesmann-auto-sport.de/egtfrontc.html

Thanks guys - and other cars I can use the pump from? And what year should the above cars be?

So where would you put it - at the back near the tank or in the engine bay?

Does anyoen know a required volume and pressure rating?

Does't exist. If its a legal street car' date=' its slow and will get its arse handed to it by any well-setup dedicated track car. [/quote'] Well yes... sort of... first of all no-one was ever talking of a completely street legal setup and second of all - a street car doesnt have strict rules to adhere to so can use a few more tricks when it comes to chassis development as well as the engine/gbox... to many factors - no need to oversimplify things so much Not really - havent seen it' date=' but I can imagine that situation. Really depends on the track though - a tight circuit with short straights will obviously allow 86 to perform better than they would on a track with lots of long straights. I want a certain amount of travel in my suspension (yeah i guess thats a compromise) - thats all I meant, sorry if you couldnt understand... and who has ever said I want it to be comfortable? Ah?

I run a six point cage and the chassis has been seam welded in the engine bay for racing. The car has been extensively lightened and is only suitable for use on the track. The first question to ask is what do you want to use your car for? The 420-450lb springs I use are far too excessive for any road use. For a road car I would not really be going much beyond 250lb springs. The tockiko illuminas I have used with 400lb springs' date=' adjusted to 5 in the dry and for a wet set up dropped back to 3 but also with the front sway bar detached at one side and I don't run a rear bar. Blue_Leaf, before you go and spend your hard earned you really need to know what you want to use the car for and then a suitable set up to start with can be worked out. As for the comparison between the S30 shell and the AE86 shell, there is none. As an example of compating cars I had a 180B SSS that ran 700lb springs for the circuit, we ended up cutting off acouple of coils to lower the car to the class limit of 100mm and I ran about 6deg of neg camber on the bum because of it. A mate had a 180b SSS rally car, different use different set up, he ran only 300lb springs and was just as quick on the bitumen as I was. The AE86 with really stiff suspension maybe an absolute pig compared to a S30 with 300lb springs, the only real way to tell is by the stop watch, not by feel. Matt[/quote'] Thanks for your input Matt - its great to hear a viewpoint of someone who actually races these cars and is on this side of the planet I totally agree that the cars cant be judged by feel and the stop watch is the way to go - sadly none of my friends outside this forum own an S30 so I couldnt really compare the cars' times. Could you please give me your PBs for any vic tracks that you ran on? On the other hand I can hardy believe that the 2 180Bs with such drastic differences in set up were running the same times on hard stuff... I am no expert obviously but I would seriously think that the 700lbs care had something wrong with it - I mean if it was set-up for track the car should definitely be quicker than a rally car (which is usually a compromise) on bitumen. But then now that I think of it it could be the fact that the chassis itself started twisting (were both cars stock in that respect? or had same cages by any chance?) at the same time on cars (which is waht guys on hybridz have been talking about) and have not allowed the track car to take full advantage of the spring rates. With my car I am planning to use it for street 95% of the time and track 5% but I could not care less about ride quality (cant be worse than in my mr2 anyways :/ ) - great handling is what I am after. But also I am only planning to run radial tires - no slicks for me for sure. So yeah no compromise set-up is what I am after Cheers, Evgeny.

I knew this car would pop-up on here sooner or later - I tihnk its been over every Z forum already Nice car nonetheless and worth a mention every time And 280ZX can be prety in 2+2 state too - just need some quality rims, lowring and a front spoiler - I am always tempted to get one of them whenever I see one for sale - EFI L28 with 4 seats and a Z badge - sounds good to me

The 180 and silvia boxes are the same but they will need some serious modding to run with L6 motors in S30 chassis - not worth the effort - just get a 280ZX or 240K 5-speed box.

At the moment I am planning to just run the car on random track days just like I did with all my previous cars - so I dont really care about any category rules - just want the car to be allowed on the road and track. As I said I am still yet to speak to any workshop about fabricating a cage - so not going to make any decisions yet.

Ok I have thought that I had suspension figured out and now after reading a few threads on hybrid Z it turns out that Tokico Illuminas are only any good for rates up to 250lb/in (~4.5kg/mm) - so I cant really use them with my intended setup (at least 6kg)... might have to go up in price and get konis :/... but to make things worse it turns out that there is no point putting anything over 300lb/in (~5.4kg/mm) in a stock chassis as the chassis itself is too soft :/ which leads me back to my search for a cheap rollcage which I did find (look here http://www.viczcar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=428 )but it might be illegal in Australia so still not sure if I will use it or not. As a matter of fact I was planning on running 8kg/mm (~448 lb/in) front and back in my car after having a ride in my mates AE86 with 10kg/mm front and 8 kg/mm rear and loving it.... leads me to think - is the AE86 shell really that much stronger and stiffer than S30??? Another interesting thing I have noticed was that 90% of guys in the US run stiffer rates at the back - WHY??? I thought our cars are slightly front heavy or neautral? And question to PZG302 - I am guessing your car has a rollcage? How amny points?

I have spoken to a few people and the numbers I got were around $2.5-3k for a full weld in cage with no extension to the front past firewall though... yet to talk to any any workshops - the above numbers are just from people I know. Well nonetheless seems a little expensive so I kep searching for pre-made ones and found this: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_753931_-1_10775 USD$270 for a 12 point cage specifically made for a 240 sounds REALLy good even after postage from US - now I am just trying to see who can aprove it for me....

Woohooo another meet - I should have my car running by then

around 9-10k would be a safe estimate if you get someone else to do it for you. - Motor + box + electricals +fuel system say 3k for a decent package; - installation - 2k at least with custom mounts fabrication etc etc; - chassis strenghtening to accept the new torque - 2k at least; - brakes - 1k; - engineering everything 1-2k; And as usuall you will get lots of surprises along the way that will cost you more money - and would you really want to just have a stock motor after all?

Yes the gearing is different - the 260 box has shorter gears and thus is a better choice for auto-x etc. Just some interesting reading (although about US boxes sorry): http://newprotest.org/projects/510/gearRatios.pl http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/

Definitely not 16s - I was always thinking they were 18s - remember reading it somwhere...

Wow thats very nice! COngrads mate!

Ok abit of a stupid question, but... I keep hearing about people using tripple carbs - but never quite understood the theory behind using 3 cabs instead of 2 and why would 3 produce more power? From what I undestand there is a perfect air/fuel ratio that will produce the maximum amount of power and I presume the stock say 240 carbs will be able to supply even L28 with plenty of fuel and air - so whats the point of switching to tripples - is it just a matter of flow (as in tripples flow slightly more air/fuel in a period of time)? Or is it because you can tune triples more accurately (each for 2 cylinders instaed of 3) than twins - but then still dont see if that will make any significant difference on its own without any accompanying mods such as cam, porting etc.? Also another question - why are 240 carbs considered to be so much better than 260 carbs?

Congrads on the purchase - those are awesome cars - both looks wise and performance wise - wouldnt mind one of those myself if only i could afford to keep it! That is sooooo true - no other car like a Z!!! I am 19 and I have owned 3 already (still have 2): 72 S30 - barely driven as heaps of rust, 89 Z32 TT (had to be sold for financial reasons), and now I just got myself another 73 S30 - soon to be driven (need to find 240 carbs first!)