C.A.R.

I think it's just a fact of light being in the wrong spot - I can't see any actual hair

Very neat

Not many laps in that session...

Crossed wires here! Reverendzed is a 'Dave' too

Fixed again. Pleanty of 'P' Plates out there - but there's not a lot of Zeds left! (And yes, I realize we're getting sidetracked).

16yo (17/18yo by the time he gets his licence) + Turbo = Illegal. Also, having a Zed at 17/18 is a big gamble - you WILL crash it. For heaven's sake Jason, get yourself a manual RWD car (like a Commo/Falcoon/Skyline) for the first few years of having your licence. Then get a Zed when you have more experience under your belt. The last thing I want to hear is a Zed that's been written off by a 'P' plater...

Oooooooh - is that all your after mate? I don't have those - just the bare carbs...

Next year? Don't you mean in 2011, Alan? BTW, who is organizing the Sydney Nationals? SDC or the Sydney Zed club? I've been hearing very strong rumors of a Zed only event...

That's quite doable John. Let me know when your ready.

I think your fitting in quite well around here John

Do you also do Children's party's?

I forgot it's school holidays atm...

Settle down ladies...

Bump.

I've got a pair mate you can have mate - no manifold though...

Well the new door skin I fitted had Nissan written all over it, so I can only assume it's a genuine item. The one's from (I think) rare spares have the same reinforcing panel welded onto them too AFAIK. But I'm not sure of the fit quality... BTW, he's the reason I fitted the new skin :-\

FWIW if it's a 3.5ltr it's from Rover P6 3500 etc. If it was a Leyland P76 engine it'd be 4.4ltrs - It's a different engine to the Rover 3.5ltr

Oh ffs...

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4189.new.html#new Just coz you asked so nicely mate

Mick/Jeff - is that an acceptable way I've done it? Jeff - I'm a Boilie

Ta da!

Last few pics of the door

Step 3: With your ‘special’ screwdriver, start at the top of the door (at either end) by sliding the blade between the door skin & the frame. Push down on the handle so as to move the door skin lip up at a 45deg angle. Slowly & gently continue around the whole of the door. Continue back the way you came on the lip levering it up at a 90deg angle until the door is free. Doing it this way, lesions the risk of stretching the skin ‘lip’. You should now be able to remove the skin from the fame. Note: With the door split in halves, you now have the opportunity to carry out repairs on the door frame and/or door skin. Step 4: When you have completed the repairs to the fame and/or skin , paint the insides of the two parts with a rust proofing paint or similar. Next, clamp the two halves together GENTLY with some suitable clamps, into the correct position. Place a small tack weld at the top ends to hold the skin to the frame – Do not weld it fully yet. Take a block of wood (to use as a dolly) & gently start working the bottom skin lip over the frame to a 45deg angle. Then start on the side lips. TAKE YOUR TIME!!! You also want to make sure you maintain the radius at the bottom rear of the door when your peening the lip over. Once you have the lips all bent at 45deg angle, you can now completely fold the lips down hard onto the frame. Take your time here as you don’t want to stretch the lip too much. Once the lip is down hard, remove the clamps & then weld 20mm down the top of the door at the top (as pictured). Finally, give the seam & welds a quick wire brush & coat of rust proof paint. DONE! You now have the complete door ready to be repainted & assembled! While it’s a fairly straight forward job, it could be a tad tricky for a novice – so be forewarned! Question & comments welcome