C.A.R.

Through the restoration of the body I'd also been keeping track of what parts we did and didn't have as I came across them.
More concerning, was that I wasn't sure what parts were missing that I didn't know about!

Upon discussing this with the Tony, we decided to 'dry build' the Z as I didn't want to be drilling holes and/or scratching the new paint if we find missing items.
So that's what we are doing and I'm glad we are!

Up on the hoist with the body-shell and we got the brake and fuel hard lines out to install them.
The hard line isolators were perished, but a friend of mine has a 3D printer and used the old isolators to recreate new ones of of a material called TPU which is oil, water & UV resistant.



From the RH side accident, it appears the fuel hard line was damaged and cut off near the firewall.
The rest of the hard line was in good condition and I couldn't be bothered remaking the whole length,
so we cut the the pipe back to under the gearbox tunnel, then we set about remaking the front engine bay section with some new bundy pipe of the correct diameter.
A sleeve was then turned up, slipped over the join and silver soldered into position.





The front brake pipes were also missing, so new ones were make up in Kunifer with new flare nuts.
All this will then be replated along with some other items that didn't get done with the first lot of plating.

We'll be refurbishing the brake and clutch master cylinders in due course.





Next, the painted front components went in, along with a reconditioned steering rack from SW Motorsport.



Followed by the rear suspension:



Next the new wiring loom was fed thought the body to make sure the terminations were in the correct places (they were):



And the natty engine bay inspection light that we refurbished.

17 minutes ago, gav240z said:

Has Les done a build with 1 yet?

Not that I'm aware of.

2 hours ago, Huw said:

I see Les is their distributor in Australia. 

He is.
And Kameari.

Considering how expensive the L6 head from them already is (nearly AUD$10k), I can't expect the TC version to be cost effective either.

The original wiring loom for the Z was an utter dogs breakfast: Dirty, extra wires, soldered joints, cut wires, crimped joiners, broken plugs, broken & burnt(!) pins and... SCOTCH LOCKS!!!








Not surprising given the condition of the rest of the vehicle, and obviously there was no way I could fit this to the restored Z...

Fortunately I have a friend who builds wiring looms as a side-hussle, although he prefers to build Millspec MoTeC race looms, I pleaded with him to remake the factory loom for the Z.
He said yes, on the proviso that he able to acquire the correctly coloured wires and that I order two looms (fine by me) and that I NOT hassle him for it.
After some searching, all the correct coloured wires were obtained in the correct gauge, along with new plugs. Mint!
I waited over 18 months, but he did deliver with a new body loom, engine bay loom, headlight fly leads and a checked and refurbished dash loom.
The original Nissan wiring tag was also able to be saved on the dash loom!



Refurbished dash loom:



Cost was eye-watering as it's build by hand, but I can now guarantee that there won't be any electrical issues with this Z when it's finished!

Onto the suspension.

Aug '22:
The front engine cross-member had clearly been damaged in the accident - the kink in it was a give-away.
However I also noticed that it had inner LCA eccentric eye bolts fitted, presumably to get the camber back to somewhere normal - check out how far it's been slotted!

I thought about fixing it, but it wasn't going to be economically viable, so I went through my collection of crap and found one.
This was media blasted and painted.
(The old one went into the scrap bin).







We then moved onto media blasting an de-oxidizing the suspension components.
Then they were given a coat of Stain Black as per factory.







When we were reassembling the brake components, they all looks very new.
I queried Tony (the owner) and he confirmed that the brakes and wheel bearings at all four corners had been recently reco'd. This was good - one less job for us to do.
I did think it was strange considering the state of the rest of the vehicle though...





The heater box, fresh air duct and fan housing was also given the same treatment:

The wiper linkages needed to be rebuilt, so in May '21 these were carefully disassembled but annoyingly one spindle was seized in it's aluminum housing.
I carefully heated it up with my OxyAct and quenched it in water, and I was then able to wind the spindle out. Unfortunately I cracked one of the pot-metal bushes, so I'd have to make a new one.
The parts were all Hydro Jet blasted, and re electroplated (with all the other parts) ready for reassembly.

In September '23, I machined up a new bush in plastic and locktite'd it into position in the alum housing. Then reassembly could begin:









(Completed photo missing - TBC)

When I was disassembling the wiper arms in '21, I then went though the box's of parts to find the wiper motor and bracket. I couldn't find it, so I searched the box's again. Nothing.
I then spoke to the owner in case he had in in Sydney. He looked and reported back that he didn't have it either! Bugger! I'd have to source an early 240Z wiper motor and bracket...

12 hours ago, AndBir said:

Based on the reviews on productreview.com.au Shannons seems to no longer be a reputable insurance company - maybe as a result of being taken over by Suncorp?

 What recent experiences have people had with Shannons?

I will be getting quotes from Enthusiast Motor Insurance to compare.

Just make sure you read the PDS...

1 hour ago, 240ZR said:

Hi all,

I've listed a few Z parts on Ebay, some are NOS.
I have plenty of other parts not listed so hit me up with what you need... I might have what ur looking for.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?item=196129019007&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l2562&_ssn=nixbikes

I've texted you.

You'll save time, money and end up with a better result if you just buy a new hatch frame:

https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun/240-260z/datsun-240z-hatch.html

Or

https://resurrectedclassics.com/en-au/collections/sheet-metal/products/1971-1978-datsun-240z-260z-280z-hatch

On 3/29/2024 at 11:13 PM, vspecrob said:

Hey Jeff,

A long shot I know, but do you still have any of the extractors? 
 

cheers Rob

I have a set of new extractors down here in Warragul, Rob.
PM me.

13 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

So I pulled the trigger and bought the KFVJDM rear quarters, it hurt a lot to see the total price shipped, i also got slugged with import duties, however its the first time i have been stung and I've brought in thousands of dollars worth of parts so my number had to come up eventually. arrived all safe with no visible damage besides some scratches to that funky green paint. I have to say they don't use much foam or bubble wrap to protect the panels if at all. 

You can't avoid GST on larger shipments.

However Import Duty IS NOT payable on NEW parts for vehicles 30+ years old.
When you get the invoice from DHL(?), an email  back to them stating this have have them correct it.
AUS>USA FTA is also in place.

Hopefully this helps next time you order from the USA...

The issue you will find is that the factory Z seats have a very low base, so any 'modern' seat will sit you up higher that the standard item.

If you intent to use your Z in competition, I suggest looking at a fixed back bucket - FWIW I have a Sparco Sprint in my race Z and I'm also 6'4,
and i don't have any helmet clearance issues.

When the 240Z was first delivered to me I noticed the gear-stick hole had been cut out (badly) further forward and a later model - Bluebird or 280ZX - gearbox was in the cabin.
As we are returning the 240Z to original specification, I needed to find a 71A box and tailshift - no easy feat as most have been scrapped.

Fortunately after speaking to Les at Les Collins Racing in Oct '22 about this issue, he went on the hunt for an 71A gearbox & TS on the understanding that he would get the job of rebuilding it.
Needless to say he came though!

New Nissan Bulk Rings
New bearings.
New Nissan gaskets & seals
Re-machined and improved shifter mechanism
Hydro-Jet blasted cases
Re-plated fasteners

Rebuilt Tailshaft

And before anyone asks: Yes, it all cost the GDP of a small African nation. But what a piece of jewellery it is!

 

Also in '21 we stripped down all the parts that required electroplating including ALL the bolts that are used.
This was all given to my Hydro-Jet blaster to take them back to raw steel again before being sent off for re-plating in silver or gold as required.





And back from the electroplaters a few months later - Shiny!




 

So that's the body shell repairs story completed, but for the next part of the restoration we need to go back in time a bit as I've omitted other parts of this 240Z's restoration.

In August '21 I was looking into rebuilding the door hinges as they were quite sloppy from years of use.
I came across this bloke on ebay in Malta(!) who makes Datsun hinge repair kits, so I placed the order and he posted me enough kits to rebuild all 4 door hinges.
I disassembled the hinges, media blasted them, then installed the new pins and bushes, they were then put aside until they were needed.

This was all done so we could fit ALL the panels back onto the body shell and turn a MASSIVE corner with the project:

Next the old paint and dried rust converter was removed from the bonnet, before it was also given a coat of Epoxy along with the doors, guards and headlight buckets:






 

With all the prep work done, we commenced welding the topside of rear quarter panels back on with a mixture of Mig plug welds and spot welds.
With the quarter panel welds around the tail light panel linished smooth, we then set about prepping and welding into place the rear tail light panel.





Unfortunately the manufacturer of the tail light panel got the hatch lock receiver mount AND the slam panel welded in the wrong spot, so we had to unpick it and weld it back on in
the correct position - 12mm to the left! - so the hatch lock could engage...
Annoying but straight forward enough.





The roof skin was then screwed into place, the windscreen & seal were installed and checked for fitment, then the removed so we could weld the skin into place:



Next, the body shell was returned to the rotisserie so the underside of the rear quarters could be welded into position:







The previously fabricated A-post drip rail extensions were then welded into place:





RHS:



Then the underfloor rails were adjusted, prepped, welded into place and the welds linished smooth. After which the underside of the bodyshell was scuffed with 240g and given a coat of PPG finest Epoxy:



Along with the rear quarters, tail light panel and roof once they were taken back to bare metal:




 

Time for another update.

With the door gaps sorted, we turned our attention to the quarter panels.
I can sum them up as being 90% good - they had issues like most aftermarket panels, but nothing horrendous. But it would be nice if they could just be 100% spot on...
* The top body line was too sharp
* The pressing around the tail light apparatuses were different from side to side
* They had ripples around the arch lips
* The step for the tail light panel was in the wrong spot.
* The LH recess for the tailgate opening was too 'short'.

Lots of panel beating and farnarkling took place, but we finally got them to fit after a number of days.
We couldn't have left these issues as they would have stood out like dogs balls once the car was painted and assembled...









Then we test fitted a bumper to make sure our fitment was correct:



With all that done (it took a LOT of hours), and all the gaps looking within tolerence, we could now begin prepping to weld the quarter panels into place.
But first the inner rear 1/4s were sanded and a fresh coat of Epoxy applied. The green coating was removed from the inside of the new quarter panels and these were also Epoxied.
Once the Epoxy had cured overnight, KBS Rust Seal was applied to the insides of both the 1/4 panels and internal structure (taking care to stay away from the panel joins) to seal them from any future corrosion (hopefully!).











The roof frame and skin also got the same treatment, before they were welded into position:

Radiator:
https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/radiator-support-kit/

Guards:
https://resurrectedclassics.com/en-au/collections/sheet-metal/products/1970-1978-datsun-240z-260z-280z-steel-fender-set  

I can't help with the A-Post.

What's the chassis number of the 240Z?

On 1/10/2024 at 1:25 PM, Harrison kennedy said:

I know this isn’t really related but I was wondering also on the topic of cages what would be the go around chassis edits.

and thankyou to all I have been looking around for information about cages.

Holy thread revival, Batman!

Here is a the MA regs on cages:
https://motorsport.org.au/docs/default-source/manual/general-requirements/2024/2024-schedule-j.pdf?sfvrsn=ec9993ff_4 

14 hours ago, 240ZR said:

The new set won't be OEM, they will made in black suede material.
I just need a crappy set that can be copied. Thanx

Think I have a set - PM me your address.