warrenz

Hi Lurch What is the thinking with the accommodation as the internet says they only have 2x 2 bedroom and 2x 3 bedroom apartments available on the Sat night ? Warren

Hi Should be able to make it. Warren

Hi Charlie Boy is right as KBS is a Shopping Mall group in Norway Warren

Hi I recently purchased new front and rear seals from AllZParts in Sydney and the installer from Complete Windscreens who supplied the new glass and fitted them, commented on the good quality of the seals. He said they were much better than the ones he would have sourced via Rare Spares and to me they are a perfect fit. Warren

Hi When you say it does not work what do you mean? Refering to post above, the constant 12v connects to the "memory" power input on the deck to maintain the clock, and any presets. The 12v via the ACC is to power the unit so it plays CD's etc. Only power to the "memory" input will show clock etc but the deck will not actually turn on to play CD's and if you do not connect constant 12v (via a fuse) to the "memory" input then each time you turn off the ignition the clock and any presets will reset. Warren

Hi I also saw him running at Phillip Island on the weekend and it was clean lines no drifting, very impressive performance. The Porsche's were getting him under brakes I forgot to go looking for him in the pits but last time I saw under his bonnet a couple of years ago at Phillip Island he had triple 40mm webers. Then a few months later he sold them on ebay and he said he was updating to fuel injection. Can you run fuel injection is Sc, or would he have been running a different class then? Warren

Hi The reason the plug may have been difficult to get out is that it is a tapered thread and if you over tighten it then it is very difficult to get out. Same thing happened to me when I first purchased my car, the PO had overtightened it. You could try the usual Z spare parts places like AllZParts or try the wreckers as the R180 diff was fitted to other Datsuns. Warren

Hi I would bet you are connecting to an oil pressure switch. The original oil pressure sender on the 240 has a single round post that the wire from the loom connects to. The 240 does not have an oil pressure light. Some replacement senders for the later model cars ie 280ZX, have 2 spade terminals on them. One is for the oil pressure gauge and one if for the oil pressure light. You can still use them on a 240 but you need to connect to the correct terminal and modify the connector. If you are connected to the oil pressure light terminal at switch on the connection is almost a short circuit to earth to light the lamp in the dash, once oil pressure rises the resistance increases and the light goes out. If you connect the gauge to this terminal the gauge will go to max oil pressure at switch on and 0 after oil pressure builds up. So you either have the wrong sender unit fitted to the block or you are connected to the wrong terminal on the sender. Warren

Did not notice the wheels. Warren

Hi Spotted a blue 260 2 seater driving through Kensington at about 6pm Tuesday 12/2, rego IHB 440. Anyone one from here ? Were you just passing through or do you live in the area ? Warren

Hi, Shannons call it "Laid up cover" for vehicles undergoing restoration. Go to their web site Gav www.shannons.com.au Warren

Got one hanging on the wall in my office. Also from Calendars.com.au Warren

The door skins are made in Taiwan, seems to be a ready supply of them. One thing to note is that the gap around the door ends up being slightly larger than the original doors even though when I discussed this with Warren from AllZparts (as I had heard this before) he said they they had changed the pressing and they were now ok. I measured the old and the new and seemed to be same size but gaps are larger. The gaps on mine aren't too bad but the painter did build up the door edge up by the curved bit that joins the top of the fender. Warren

Hi The door skins came from AllZParts in Sydney and were $250 each back in 2006. Hard to say what the fitting of them cost because it was rolled up with cutting out other rusted areas and welding in new rust repair sections that I supplied, repairing spoiler holes in hatch plus aligning all panels and painting doors, bare metal front guards and all other repaired areas in primer. I removed the old door skins and cleaned up the frame and coated it with POR15 as well as the inside of the door skin. If you just want the door skins fitted and the doors are already off the car I would have thought it wouldn't take a panel beater more than 2-3 hours to do that. I guess price depends on how you want it done. Warren

Hi You do not need to go to the trouble of uploading to another site first. When you are creating your message there is a "+ Additional Options" button near the lower left corner of the message window. Click on that and you can attach a photo that is stored on your PC by using the browse button. The photo will get uploaded from your PC when you it the post key, but it must be less than 256Kb, so you may need to use another program to reduce the file size. Usually "save for the web" option in the photo manipulation program will do the trick. Warren

Here is one that is close http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FW3TQ0/ref=nosim/?tag=dealtime-app-20&creative=380333&creativeASIN=B000FW3TQ0&linkCode=asn or on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-Datsun-Z-ZX-Hawaiian-Style-Shirt-240Z-300ZX-350Z_W0QQitemZ160193799344QQihZ006QQcategoryZ57990QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I expect to see someone at the next meet wearing one Warren

Problem fully solved - case closed. I have now fitted a new rotor in the distributor, new plug leads and coil lead and a brand new set of spark plugs. Revs strongly all the way to 6000 revs before the tacho drops to 0. (need to move one of the wires from the Pertronix ignition to the other side of the ballast resistor. I am pretty sure it was all points related, but since everything else was old and tired I think they all just added to the problem. The plan was always to replace all the ignition components as part of putting it back in the road anyway. So ready for January cruise, hope it will not be 40 degrees that day. Thanks for all the advice. Warren

I assume this is the bolt you cannot undo ? It is usually the pivot bolt that is difficult to get out. Have you tried heating it up with a oxy torch or butane torch? Have you tried a longer extension bar on the socket handle to get more leverage, be careful as you can easily snap it off. Sorry we are not much help, if it snaps off then the whole lot has to come out anyway so you can drill it out so maybe it is safer to take it out now so you can attack it with more freedom. If you decide to remove the bushes then my advice is to take the trailing arm to Pedders and get them to press them out, it is money well spent. Warren

Hey NZeder, I would not trust that Nissan book as my 240 is 102195. Warren

The E88 head was fitted to the 240 as standard from 71 to 73 and then the 260. The version fitted to the 240 had smaller valves but the chambers are the same cc size. The very early 240's had the E31 head. Warren

Problem almost solved. Whilst I was away my Pertronix Electronic Ignition and coil, that I had ordered previously, arrived from the US. So fitted them along with a new distributor cap as the original one was very worn, reset timing and found that the lack of distributor movement was no longer an issue. I also re-adjusted mixture on SU's and car was much better. I then cleaned up another set of less used plugs and now it pulls strongly until about 5500 revs before it starts to mildly pop. So almost there, but at least is drivable in normal traffic. A new set of plugs and leads on the way to complete the ignition update and when I get my carby balance tool back I will set up carby's properly. Thanks for your advice. Warren

Was thinking that the distributor needed to be rotated slightly myself. I checked the vacuum advance on the distributor and it is working. I decided to recheck the gap on the points whilst I was doing this and somehow they had slipped back to about 10 thou from the 20 thou that I set them at. Obviously not tight enough with the securing screws on the points, but screw heads are soft and I was trying not to destroy them. Reset and then checked timing and was > 20BTDC so reset to lowest setting possible. Test drive was better below 3000 but still this rev limiter effect at 3000. I cannot get the timing less than about 20 BTDC as I have run out of distributor movement, so need to rotate it. I will have to put this on hold for a few days as I am off on a business trip. Warren

Hi Pauly, the carbs are the original round top SU's. I can only get the timing back to about 10 BTDC as I run out of adjustment on the distributor. I would have thought I should be able to set it back to 0. Warren

No, is there a simple way to do that? Warren

Hi My 73 240 has been off the road for 2 years undergoing restoration, now painted and back together I cannot get it to run properly. It now idles smoothly and will rev to 4K sitting in the garage in neutral. If you trundle along without exceeding 2500 revs it drives OK but when you press the accelerator to the floor there is only a gradual acceleration and some hesitation and when it get to just over 3000 revs it just does not go much higher and the exhaust note becomes very flat. To me it seems like it is not running on all 6 cylinders. Before taking it off the road it ran strong all the way to the 6000+ revs Since putting the body back together I have:- Filled it with fresh 98 octane premium unleaded fuel Changed the fuel filter and checked inside the fuel pump Cleaned and reset the gap on the spark plugs (NGK BP 5ES) Changed the points and reset the gap and ignition timing. Distributor is a 65A so set timing to 10 BTDC, also tried 17 BTDC before I read label on dist. Checked drop on piston inside SU carbs, found one would not fully lift due to broken spacer floating around inside, now OK Reset mixture, wound mixture screw up fully and then backed it off half a turn. Front 3 cylinders the plugs are a nice brown colour, the back 3 the plugs are black. Also tried 2.5 turns as per ZTherapy and is smoother and more responsive low down but all plugs are now black. Since it will rev freely in neutral or with no load I don't suspect a spark problem I am thinking a fuel problem. Before it came off the road the back 3 plugs were always black and the front 3 brown but it revved out fine. I have run out of ideas. Has anyone got any suggestions. Warren