Zeddophile

Why didn't yours have a rear swaybar? Mine has one..... I assume $600 was fitted, since the online store price at whiteline is around $240 each bar? For reference evan, the whiteline part numbers according to their downloadable catalogue are BDF7Z (front adjustable, 24mm thickness) and BDR7Z or BDR20Z (rear adjustable, 19mm). You also have an option for the rear of a non adjustable 22mm item (BDR20), but I suspect 19mm to be standard thickness, with a different preload, allowing you to use standard size poly bushes and saddles, and also possibly canceling out the extra $30 the adjustable one costs. And I'll try my best to remember to ring Top Performance tomorrow.....

Well, as far as shocks go, Konis are definitely one of the best in world - not too sure about how Tokicos are, but I know which option I'd go.... As far as swaybars go - if you are doing a full kit with the swaybar bushes included, you may as well put new swaybars in. Be aware though, if you are changing swaybars, you may need different inside diameter bushes.... I really must investigate the cost of swapping to Koni yellows, I forgot all about it....

Have you looked for the initial D models in Box Hill? Theres a shop on whitehorse road (maroondah highway there?) which had some, not sure on scale though. There are quite a few anime shops around there.... I guess the other obvious place would be Springvale (not that I'm insinuating anything about the inhabitants!)

I haven't priced the ducted spoiler, no - i was happy in the knowledge that allzparts have them for between 340 and 400.... Re welding and grinding, I'm going to trailer it to a mates workshop one weekend, and do it all there. He just bought a range rover, and now owes me a few hours worth of favours, since I've made and fitted a bodylift for it, and helped him do flares etc.... I just need to get a little cash together for the trailer hire. BTW, I remembered the other day, I still owe you half the door money, I must get onto that... I had it sitting in my wallet to give to you for about 2 months, but ended up spending it :oops:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/nissan-datsun-240z_W0QQitemZ4618920499QQcategoryZ102574QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I bought exactly the same model from Coles for $8......

hmmm - that reminds me.... i really should get onto getting that ducted front spoiler.... Its the next on the list, now i've sort of run out of things to spend on with the rangie, and now that i seem to have found a way to finish my grinding and welding.

How is the battery? If the battery is ratshit, it can lead to the alternator showing a low charge rate. Check the electrolyte in the battery for level and cloudiness.

3.1 litre stroker L28 easily. Don't need to worry too much about engineers report (just pretend its an average L28!), and cost is probably similar. If you intend to do track days, the stroker should give you a much better handling car on a circuit, as well as a lighter car, as from memory the toyota V8 is iron block? And yes - that 3.1 stroker link you posted is my inspiration - everytime you watch that street driving video, get tingles down the spine. These sites might help you to get a bit of an idea for whats involved: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1Cobb/3.1engine.htm

Warren, its good to hear you are satisfied with the Scotts old auto rubber seals, as that was where i was planning to go. I believe if you mention that you are in a car club, he often gives discounts?

400 isn't that bad for 3rd party fire theft, especially considering your age, and the fact that its a 2 door coupe (which tends to make insurance pretty expensive)

everytime I look at this thread, I realise how good a deal i got with my rims, and thank god i don't still have to stress about what wheels i could get...

Metal heat shields on the firewall would probably be best. If you choose to fit vents to your bonnet, make sure the opening faces the rear of the car - it works better sucking the heat out of the engine bay rather than trying to force air in.

Wouldn't you be better off posting this in a UK zed site? Ie: the UK section of classiczcar.com (if i didn't just make that up)

you could spray some kind of liquid around the suspect carbie to try and find and airleak (aerostart for example will make it rev up if its getting sucked in. Couple of things to maybe check - level of the damping fluid (generally auto trans fluid or similar) in the dashpot of the carbie? It might be possible that your diaphragm inside is flapping up and down madly... Also, have you tried fiddling with the idle air screw on the second carb? Or is it controlled by a balance mechanism off the first, like the crappy Hitachis? If it has its own idle air screw, try turning it anticlockwise two turns, and see if anything changes... If it doesn't go back to the original position, then try two turns the other way - usually though anticlockwise is 'lean', or allows more air in. The only other thing that comes to mind is possibly a blocked idle jet - maybe try pulling them out one at a time (so as not to mix them up ) and blowing through them to make sure they're clear. CAUTION: do not stick wire down the insides of them to clear them. use compressed air, and/or dip them in petrol to clear them, or if its really desperate, try some fishing line - carefully. The brass is very soft. Failing that, try just ringing a carbie specialist - SU's are pretty common and pretty simple, so any problem you're having should have been encountered before many times, and they may be able to give you specific directions. I can think of many things to play with inside the carbie, but at the moment I can't think of a way to connect them to your fault....

lol.... BEEF!

Yep. Thats about the figure i would expect if the standard figure is 105kw, considering you have pod and exhaust. My alfa pulled up 55kw on the dyno at tafe, and was flywheel rated at 97kw. It was streaming black smoke at higher rpms though, since the carbies were a bit worn and very rich.

Was that the servo on the corner of Chifley Drive and Bell Street? I saw a green 2+2 there the other day, and I think I may have seen the black one before too.....

The problem I have with that is that dyno graphs are so variable. For example, what gear was that in? What correctional factors were input? Many dyno shops will use a number of correction factors to give the biggest number they can. Much as I would love to believe that number (it would translate to the 127kw flywheel figure I had been going on, and would mean that 100rwkw is easily accheivable in mine - exact same L28E, F54/N42), its just to damn easy to screw with dyno charts. And by the way, I really wouldn't rely on a $35 pod filter to keep my engine clean - it probably filters more out now its full of bugs than it did new.

Does it just click once, or multiple times? If its 'machine gunning' thats usually a flat battery or crook earth connection. If it clicks once, then the solenoid is throwing correctly, but the starter is not engaging - my alfa used to do that, the fix was to hold the key to the crank position and tap the starter motor body with something (i had a wheel brace behind the seat for this purpose). Would always do it on a rainy day too.... I don't think its really possible for the pinion on the starter to jam against the flywheel, because you'd hear it making horrible noises - there is a lot of torque in a starter motor (try one day putting your car in gear and cranking it, it will drive along quite happily on the starter - until the battery goes flat!). If its jammed in such a way that the pinion gear is not actually being driven (not sure of the exact design of that starter, may or may not be possible) the starter will still spin. If the teeth on the ringgear (flywheel) are worn, same again - starter would still spin. It really sounds like there is a flat spot on the armatures of the starter, I'd send it back to get it checked again. One thing which could support this is 'when it doesn't start, I manually turn the motor and then it will start'. That suggests the pinion gear is throwing, and then when you turn the motor, it turns the starter over too, to a better part of the armature. It would be a bit odd for the starter to throw the gear and then not turn though, unless the flat spot on the starter is pretty big. I'd first double check battery electrolyte level (also check for cloudiness), and the voltage of the battery at rest, then recheck your starter motor earth lead at both ends, and also the battery earth lead. If that all checks out fine, maybe try pull the starter out, hook jumper leads up from a battery to the respective posts (carefully, of course). Mark with a whiteout pen the end of the pinion shaft at one point, then face that mark upwards. Hold the starter motor (putting your foot on it works well), and clip a normal wire (ie. 4mm) to the positive of the battery your using. Touch the wire to the small terminal (exciter wire) of the solenoid, and it should spin up. Repeat, but each time turn the white mark a fraction more around. If there is a large flat spot there, you should find it this way. If that fails, maybe still get the starter rechecked, because it sounds like either a voltage supply problem, or a fault in the starter. I can't think of a problem with the ringgear that would cause the starter to completely stop turning. The odd thing is it starts when jumped - that really suggests a problem with the battery or the earth - although it could just be the increase in voltage allows the armature enough power to get moving.

I want to get a white with a blue tinge to it, but not pearled (too expensive)... Dunno if thats gonna be possible, but it should be...

heres one off ozdat: datsun 260 coupe x 2 and one 2+2 i have three datsuns sitting in my back yard, two are coupes and one 2+2 sell as parts,shells or lot Price: make an offer Location: melbourne wheelershill Vic Contact: brad Email: brad.roussos@csiro.au Phone: 0432510848 (hours: any time) I'd be making him an offer on the two 2 seaters (2 cars is always better than one, as you can often get good bits of one but not the other. Personally, I'm going to see about bumpers off him.....