Zeddophile

Arrived today, and some suprises - some expected, but pleasant nonetheless, others quite unexpected. All rims are very clean, apart from a little dirt here and there, absolutely no gutter rash anywhere. They appear to be genuine Volks, with Rays Engineering on every single bolt around the rim, and also stamped on the rim itself - also with nice little metal valve caps, which probably won't last long in melbourne, might take them off and put normal black plastic ones on. The centre centre cap screws on, and is made of metal, although the bit that actually covers wheelnuts is plastic (Rays engineering stamped in there too!) Tyres are Yokohama Aspec dB, look quite decent, although unfortunately they are all 205/55 - 16 (On 8inch rims, thats a little odd!) Offset is +25 on both the 7 inch and the 8 inch rims, which wasn't as massive as I expected, so adaptors will be about half as thick as I thought. The biggest surprise though, is that the fake rivets are not fake. These are actually two piece rims! I nearly fell over, it was very unexpected.

mine.... (bit more rust at the other end too, but too lazy to post the other photo....

the bog is likely to trap water inside the door, and cause the frame to rust more quickly, in my opinion....

Not 100% sure on the offset, but being that they came off a 180sx I'm guessing they'll be in the region of +35 to +40. Was planning to run bolt on adaptors for them anyways, so I'm not stressed. Was actually going to run 225/45/16 all round, which keeps speedo pretty much right in reference to the stock tyre size as placarded in my glovebox, or maybe 225/50/16 all round if I feel that it needs just that little extra filling in the gaurds. I dunno about running smaller tyres on the front, I don't think it will be too heavy on the steering with 225s - its already got lighter steering on 195s than my alfa had with 185s on! Anyway, thats much later, so i'll worry about it when I need to. First I need to stop splashing money on non essentials and actually finish the body

The ones i posted at the top of the thread, the staggered 16 inch volks.

Well, rang just jap today, and they said no charge for freight on that size order, so I'm now almost broke again But happy. May have them before the end of the week, not sure yet, but when I get them, will post pictures.

hmm - yes. If they are fitted to sprinters, (and i think you're right, I have seen them quite often), check http://forums.toymods.org.au/ to find a set. Problem is, you will be lucky to find them as big as you want over here, I think. And yes, simmons do have a similar wheel... V5? B45? One of those two i think.

It may not have a plate (sounds suspicious to me already) but it should definitely have a vin number engraved in the firewall just above the brake booster. If it doesn't, start running, and don't look back.

dunno - that raised bonnet kind of hints at a 3.2litre L series using a diesel block to me.....

The L28E is rated at 127kw at the flywheel, the RB30E as fitted to VL commodores and R31 skylines is rated at 114kw at the flywheel (Stock figures) The head design on the RB30 is apparently nothing short of crap. Besides, to fit an RB properly requires custom engine mounts, and some stuffing around. You can bolt it in on existing mounts, but it will sit forwards and higher of the L series position, therefore changing handling characteristics. My L28E revved to about 6000 rpm freely (Badly tuned, running quite rich), and by just bolting on a set of 6 into 1 extractors, it revs freely to a bit past 7000. (The stock exhaust manifold is crap, first thing on the list should be a set of extractors to allow it to flow better. When you fit an L28E, you find that the air flow meter sits so far forwards that you have to put the filter in front of the radiator (this is actually where the airbox on a 280zx sits, across in front of the radiator). I have a pod filter dangling through here at the moment, it needs to be neatened up a bit, but basically cold air intake is not an option to fit the L28. With a cam (and the computer reprogrammed to suit), they go pretty damn quick - my mates 280zx had extractors, pod and a moderate cam (somewhat lumpy at idle), and it picked up very quickly. I'd say for about $1000 of mods (max), theres a pretty decent powerplant there. I don't know that you'll find it easy to get performance parts for an RB30E powerplant, as most people swap them out in favour of an twin cam RB. The focus for RB30s is definitely on the turbos....

I think 8 inch would be the minimum to fill the flares, otherwise you'll need an enormous negative offset, and the wheels may start to look a bit skinny under there. If you are looking for the cheapest NEW rim, a 16x8 will be the cheapest option. However, if you start talking used rims, you may find a set of 17x9s cheaper than a set of 16x8s, but I think finding secondhand rims in that kind of offset might be a little tricky..... unless you use bolt on adaptors.

rim diameter is fairly irrelevant, as you generally try to match your tyre selection to try and keep as close to the original overall diameter tyre. Width wise, i'd say around 8 inches would be close to the narrowest, maybe 7 inch if you had the wheels pushed out a bit. Offset is going to depend on whether you decide to get adaptors made up or not, but at a guess the offset for an 8 inch rim with no adaptors would be about -20? which, if assuming standard offset of 0, would leave the inner edge of the wheel about 5mm closer into to strut (easy fit) and bring the outer edge of an 8 inch rim about 45mm to the outer of the car, which should fill the flares nicely, although i'm not 100% on how far the flares stick out. -15 would bring you 10mm closer to the strut than standard (still easy fit), and give 40mm further out rim distance.

Well, pretty much anything exterior from the front pillars won't fit, as I'm guessing you already know.... 2+2 doors are longer, the bumpers are wider, rear quarter glass is different.... Not sure about the hatch, I should look into that, because I want one for my car..... I think a lot of the interior is probably interchangeable, with perhaps exception to the rear trims, I don't see why they'd have changed it.

I don't believe there is a problem here.... The 'hot' toranas had bolted on flares as standard, and many many 4wds run aftermarket flares (myself included) without issue (or at least I've never heard of anyone being defected for them). As far as I can see, there is no difference between the plastic flare things fitted to many softroaders and the flares we use on zeds. They are a smooth shape, so it can't really be said that they are a danger to pedestrians.....

Hmmm - according to those VIN numbers, my car (RS30 010089) was built early august '75, so spent about 9 months on the boats/docks/etc, before receiving australian compliance.....

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=4811 Check it out, nice clean example, good price....

I like this thought! Perhaps it adds value? :twisted:

offset is about +12 for a zed. If you're looking for aftermarket wheels, pretty much the only thing is superlites, unless you run bolt on adaptors. The car can bump steer with incorrect offset, but I believe zeds are more prone to chew out wheel bearings.

Ahhh, thats the one I had on my background for a while, someone posted photos of it here before...... Sounds like its still S20 powered....

Yeah, I've got a can of fish oil to apply to the cavitys in my car - I see there is also something called "cavity wax" made by K&H, its available at Autobarn, and probably anywhere else that deals in K&H products....

Well vtec is a completely different cam profile that is actuated by solenoids at whatever RPM it is, so of course you'll feel a difference.

Merry Christmas to everyone!

I may do that, probably after work one day next week (working wednesday - friday). Cheers!

Well, that depends on what they can recondition - my bumpers are dented, twisted and rusty, and have over riders.... And I want non over-rider bumpers, with any rubber bits, so to reco them involves straightening, filling holes and rust repair - can they do all that?

Where was that from, and is that for the pair, or each? And do you need to trade old ones in? That sounds like a good deal to me, especially since I need new bumpers, and I want ones without overriders Over riders are probably the best bits on my bumpers, have all the rubbers on (although a bit dried up/cracked), and the chrome is in pretty good condition, should come up good with a polish (Externally at least, I'd have to have a look behind them if you were interested), so theres another source if you wanted....