Zeddophile

JBWetzels: That colour I like, definitely. Its now on the shortlist RBz260, does the Ford blue normally look that light in colour?

that ford blue isn't too bad, it has a bit of similarity to the original colour one i put up the top..... Would be interesting to see a photo of it on an overcast day...

was the fast and furious takeoff a flash animation called 3 3ast 3 3urious? Cause if it wasn't.... http://www.nearlygood.com/video/3ast3urious.html

Lol. I believe it was red originally, then got sprayed white over the top of that.... I'm liking the blue and the green G-nose ones that Nate posted, but I'm thinking at the moment that factory dark blue colour I posted (the one with the stripe) is a go - with a little metal flake added in perhaps....

No, thats what happens when you stick a bucket with holes on top of your intake manifold and call it a carbie. Holleys are the worst thing ever invented as far as I'm concerned, and the V8 idiots can keep them.

One thing I really don't like the look of - where the dogleg coming down from the rear quarter meets the rocker panel on the left hand side (just at the rear of the door), it appears to be smooth finish, and the seam has been hidden (ie filled over) - but on the rh side it hasn't, and you can see a bit of rust there also.... I'd say theres been accident damage on that left hand side... On the plus side, interior looks complete, and fairly decent, and it is a very early car....

hmmm ..... your wheels must have sat pretty damn close to the front strut yeah? with my math, your rim sat 10mm closer than stock, even with the adaptors - I don't know if theres even 10mm clearance to my strut (there certainly isn't with the tyre there, but i think it'll be rim sitting there with 16s... I wonder if yours has smaller struts.....

hmm - just had a look at your 2004 gallery, with the 17x7 Lensos, and I must be able to do it, because yours had 10mm more offset, which will give me more room to play with at the front (hopefully!) and about even out at the rear (with my 13mm extra width). Yours didn't look particularly odd sitting flush with the edge of the gaurd (which was my concern just before), and I think my rims have a bit more dish, which should help a bit to create an illusion that they aren't sitting out so far.... How'd you space your rims out when you were working out the adaptors? Did you have to knock two studs out of each hub, or what was the deal? And do you remember what your rear adaptors were in terms of thickness, since I can probably run almost exactly the same at the rear by the time your offset difference cancels my rim width....

low king springs will need to be compressed. If they are superlows, they might not, but normal lowering ones definately will.

Is that a standard blue, is it? Damn datsun had some awesome colours in their lineup.....

Sulio: How the f&*^$%^@$$#!&^&^$#^@$%#@@!$king hell did you manage to run 7 inch wide rims under standard gaurds? On paper I need to run a 30mm spacer for both the 16x7 fronts and for the 16x8 rears, which leaves me with the tyre possibly just being under the top of the front gaurd (but sticking out anywhere past the centre of the wheelarch), and with about 20mm of tyre sticking out on the rear, after moving about 10mm closer to the strut... You must have had pretty close to the right offset rims with yours..... Oh well, I forsee flares!

Some examples i found... I'm liking the blue on this one, dunno bout the stripe though! That greens not bad sulio, as I get the feeling it'd look better in real life..... I don't know that the charcoal will quite suit the zed shape...

Thought I had my mind up to go a white with perhaps a bluish tinge to it, but now I'm also thinking about a dark metallic (fairly high flake) blue, or possibly even (just came into my head then) dark metallic green. Reds out (TOO MANY!), orange is definitely not a colour I could live with, yellow is kind of common and I'm not crazy about it, i don't really think black would suit.... Anyone got any other colours (or opinions)? I also had a thought perhaps the metallic charcoal grey colour my alfa was, but i'm not sure about that.... At the moment, my list would go metallic blue, metallic green, metallic charcoal, and then white.... Think I need to cruise some zed sites....

all carby range rovers are electric fuel pump.... but then again, they are a Lucas (prince of darkness) product....

its sounding rather like you need a new battery..... Either that or you have a really bad earth connection.... Maybe start by disconnecting the battery earth lead at both ends, cleaning all surfaces with some sandpaper, then reconnect. If you don't even have enough power in the battery for the handbrake light to come on, then jump starting it probably won't work.... Think a new battery is probably a good start.

what do you mean, you tried to bridge the starter with the screwdriver? I assume you mean from the postive battery lead (at starter) onto the small spade terminal at the side (exciter wire). If you mean across the main terminals, you should got a pretty good bit of sparking happening.... If you didn't, theres a serious issue there... Do your lights etc work? Everything should dim or turn off when you try to crank it, even if the batterys flat. If this doesn't happen, and you aren't even getting a click from the starter solenoid, its cactus. Try tapping the side of the starter solenoid with a hammer a couple of times, then turn the key.... 11.5 volts is low, but you would normally get at least a click out of the starter at that voltage, unless its a tiny battery.... Like warren said, jump start from your falcon while its running (the falcon!) and try that. If you still aren't getting anything, definitely starter fault - or earth lead fault.

As i said at the end of the post, there are three options, which I'll list in order of likelihood: 1. Your tacho reads out. Highly probable, if it has the original 240z inductive pickup style tacho, they have a reputation for being pretty inaccurate. 2. Your speedo is reading wrong. Only way to really check that is by befriending a cop car, or go through one of those 'advisory' speed check points where they display your speed on an electronic sign (ie. western highway, hume highway). I don't like them much though, because on the little ones they put in backstreets in melbourne, I've got different readings, on the same day and same time, two streets away from each other. Thats on two seperate occasions (about 8 months apart), suburbs were about 20km away from each other, and i had a different car. I don't think they are calibrated to any standard at all. 3. Your mechanic was incorrect, and your car does in fact have a 3.54. Now, I believe you were told that by Daniel Moore, and I believe thats the guy in Burwood, who has a good reputation, so I would be hesitant to second guess him. Its not hard to tell, the ratio should be stamped on the crownwheel, so if he's had the rear cover off your diff, he should be right on. I'd start by sticking an accurate tacho on the car. Some tune-up machines will read engine rpms straight off the inductive pulses of the spark plug leads, and a dwell tachometer will read off the coil. If you ask a workshop nicely, they may be able to check it for you. Otherwise, you'll need to buy/borrow an decent brand aftermarket tacho, and just temporarily wire it up, so you can compare your tacho to it. When you know that, you will have two options left if it is accurate - speedo and diff. However, I'd put money on the tacho reading low.

This confuses me... what exactly are you trying to work out? The change in rpm? Jimbo - re your difference in RPM, dave is running a smaller tyre which gives an 8.4% difference in speedo reading (ie. when his speedo says 100kph, he is actually traveling at 91.6 Kph). I assume this is for better acceleration on the track, but I don't know if he has corrected for that when quoting here. I think he may have, by the figures down further. 60 Mph is also not 100kph, it is actually 96.5 Kph (62 Mph is within .3 of 100kph). Add to this the fact that both your tachos may be reading off, in different directions even, and you have enough small differences to make a huge difference in end result. I just had a play with the calculator on this site (http://www.spannerfodder.com/the_works_escorts-ratios.php), and either your tacho is reading at LEAST 250 RPM slow, your speedo is reading high by about 5%, or you have a 3.54 diff. Target speed of 100kph, with 3.9 diff, .76 5th gear, and 628mm rolling diameter for your tyre (I'm pretty I've got that right) gives on paper 2517 RPM. Thats before you factor in wind and rolling resistances, which would add quite a few RPM at that speed..... If you had a 3.54 diff, and no other changes, your RPM on paper is 2285. With a 3.54 and auto, you would get 3000 RPM on paper (auto apparently is 1:1 in top gear. With a 3.9 and auto, should have been getting 3300 RPM, plus a bit for resistances. For comparision, Daves specs - (target of 100kph, 3.54, 0.76 5th and rolling diameter of 576mm gives 2491 RPM.... And I imagine he has a large aftermarket tacho screwed onto the dash somewhere for his trackwork, which should be pretty accurate, so I reckon on about 200 RPM should cover wind and frictional resistances.... although his speedo might be out a bit. Note: if he hasn't corrected for speedo inaccuracy due to tyres, you get about 450 RPM in resistance, assuming his tach is accurate. So I'd take a guess that both your tacho reads a lot low (especially if its the standard inductive pickup 240z tacho), and your speedo reads a touch high.... Unless your speedo drive wasn't changed to match the diff, but I think you'd probably notice that, its about a 10km/h difference in reading you'd get (low).

Allzparts in sydney, zshop and zworx in melbourne, these places should be able to help you - there is a thread somewhere around with a list of Z parts suppliers. http://www.datrats.com.au/ These guys also have a reputation for being able to dig up anything you need for a Datsun, so definitely worth a go. The other option of course would be from Nissan directly.

How are you going about your coilovers? Are you using complete coilovers from an s13 etc, or are you getting the struts cut down? If its the latter, would be curious to know the shocks being used (ie. what model car they are from)

Holy shit, 300 posts.... I have too much time on my hands.