Zeddophile

Did you notice after the end that there is a little bit of a clip on the car, with power figures etc? Speed Shop Shinohara built it, and its got just short of 600hp... Knew I shouldn't have watched the anime, now I want back in a zed.... but a turboed Alfetta GTV will have to do.

if the movie is the one I suspect it will be (has been floating around the net for ages), its not subtitled, which makes some of the movie make absolutely no sense! Although that trailer looks different to my version, looks like its had the racing scenes all spliced together... At the end of the version I've got, he's just caning it through the mountains, and it sounds damn good. Now, onto downloading some anime - episode two is also up in the OMFG link, btw - in case no-one had noticed, i dunno how long its been there.

all depends on who you buy from, I guess - I bought a set of GSXR750 throttle bodies off a bloke in the US on ebay, got them within a week, no issues.... Suggest you pursue this through Ebays complaints system? There is no lack of communications which should be stored in their system, and if nothing else you should be able to cause him a few hassles :twisted:

Yeah, some of the fansubs are pretty dodgy, but there are a few guys who usually do a pretty good job... LiveEvil and IDE come to mind, among some others.

I can't remember if the whole compliance plate is stamped, or if some of it is printed/painted... if its all stamped, could give it a light sandblast to clean it up, assuming its just corroded... Would come up like new.

I've got it on my computer, but its all in Japanese. It also doesn't really follow the manga storyline as you've posted there too closely, from what I can see.... I don't think its ever been subbed or dubbed.... There is another thread somewhere on here about it too, which has a link but its dead - I'm sure it would be elsewhere on the net though, otherwise I could probably seed it for you. I also have the manga in pdf format....

well, I managed to snap 3 engine/transmission mounts (in one go!), smash twist and kink a hard rear brake line, push up my exhaust and crush my oxy sensor, fold in the bottom of a rear door, and crunch up a rear quarter panel on my rangie a couple of weekends ago - and there wasn't even any decent or difficult tracks! Beyond that, I do know the feeling of fixing one thing, then two days later something else will fall off right next to it and will require the original work to be redone.... Its the art of running backwards on the spot, otherwise known as owning an older car.

the back of that yellow hyundai actually looks pretty tough....

interesting - looks like that fuel pump has a pressure reg on the output of it, in the photo on rockauto.... which would mean you wouldn't be able to use most pumps from other cars, without fitting another pressure regulator into the line...

Don't like the Monaro lights, the mr smiley happy face grille, and the back looks just like every other hatch, trying to be European styled. What motor is in it?

The fuel pump does not govern pressure at all. That is the job of the fuel pressure regulator. All you need from a fuel pump is to know that it will flow enough. The exception of course, to this rule, is if you have a carby car - in which case you use a much lower volume pump, which does have some form of regulator built in, due to carby fuel pressure being somewhere between 4 and 10 psi. Efi fuel pressures on average range between 2.5bar (35psi) to 3 bar and over (44psi), but again, are normally regulated by a regulator on the fuel rail at the intake manifold. The regulator is also supplied with vacuum, which causes the fuel pressure to briefly rise at throttle first opening, and drop back to normal as the throttle plate opens more and engine vacuum decreases. The VL commodore fuel pumps here are a Bosch 044 or something like that - they feed a 3 litre nissan derived 6 cylinder, so enough flow for any average L series is a given already. I'm using the same pump to feed my 4.6 litre range rover - why? Because that same VL pump is also used to feed the holden 5.0 litre in both VL and VN form (or so I'm told). I'll also be using it in my 2.0 litre alfa when I EFI that, and turbo it. Why do I use them everywhere? Because they're about $50 from a wrecker, plentiful in supply, and flow enough for a 5 litre V8. Just look for a fairly common car at a wreckers, with a larger motor than yours, and an external fuel pump. Then, remove it and put it in your car.

Technical bookshop has closed down. They moved to La Trobe street, and now they are shut - or so the notice on their door, and the 'closing down sale' painted on the windows would tell me...

too much torque breaks gearbox mounts. trust me, I currently have a tiedown strap retaining my gearbox on one side until tomorrow...

My suggestion would be, as its on a stand out of the car, and your car has a running motor (plus you have a company car?) you might as well rebuild it while its out - why put it in if you're intending to pull it back out again? Build it up and do it properly rather than spending money doing the same things over again later. That was the approach I took with my rangie motor, and I know as it sits now, there is nothing I can change inside the motor to make any real power difference - any big gains will be in the form of a hairdryer hanging off it. I also know that the internals are in good condition, because I've cleaned and inspected (and sometimes ground :twisted:) everything in it. And I'm pretty happy with the way it goes, knowing that. But if you really want to just put it in, you can check both bearing shells in the big end bearings without removing the crank. Look for scrapes in the bores (top to bottom). Check the ovality and taper of the bores.... theres millions of things to look at, it depends how involved you want to get. As for your cam question, there are a few parts to it which aren't necessarily related. How mild is a 'mild' cam? Most decent camshaft manufacturers (example crow) will recommend various upgrades for their bigger cams. For the L series, I think stronger valve springs are fairly common. Re your valve upgrade - I'm not sure what you mean by upgrading the valves? You can generally get valves reground to tidy them up if they are worn (Unless they are rooted), which should automatically be done by your head place if they are at all decent, since you want the seats done. They should regrind the valves and reset their height, if they are redoing the seats. The performance benefit of all this is none over factory. Its only a benefit when your valves aren't seating properly in the first place. If you wanted to fit BIGGER valves, then yes, there would be a performance CHANGE here. I'm not necessarily going to say benefit, because ultimately it depends on the rest of your motor. Off the top of my head, bigger valves hurt low down power, but make more up top.... or maybe its the other way round, I can't remember - this is where you really need to do your research and find out what YOU want to do. However, I will say that you probably wouldn't put bigger valves in with a mild cam. Would be rather pointless, considering the cost of getting the heads ported to match the bigger valves etc etc etc. Not sure on biggest compression ratio for an L series - and do you mean on 98 octane fuel, or on 91 octane? If on 98 I would imagine you should be able to run up towards 9.5:1, but thats just a guess, and again you should do some research. I'm running somewhere between 9.3-9.5:1 in my rangie on 98 octane fuel quite happily, haven't even tried 91 octane in it since putting the new motor in. Generally the thickness of a head gasket doesn't make a lot of difference to the compression ratio - ie. the difference between tin and composite gaskets on a rover V8 made about 0.1-0.15 points of compression difference, from memory. My preference for raising compression would be higher compression pistons, over a head shave, as you tend to run into other issues when you shave heads. However, if you start playing with the L-engine calculator, it should give you some ideas.

i have a pair of 260z 2 seater tail lights if you're interested....

same as the length of a piece of string. No, seriously, that REALLY depends on how much work you are planning on doing yourself, to what standard you are doing it, what motor you are using, and what other changes are required. If you float some ideas of what you want, and how well you want it done, we can give you more of an idea. For example, I could probably chuck one in for about $500, but it would not be very pretty at all, and probably highly un-engineerable.

Gearbox oils are strange things - for example, in landrovers, the old 4 speed box in early Rangies uses engine oil, later models use ATF, and then the most recent use synthetic gearbox oils.... Quite odd really.

you can fit a 280zx box in if you want, but check the ratios to see if they are any better. You could change your diff ratio?

or, as you have said in your post, use a centre punch and a hammer to tap it around - the metal is quite soft, so if you make your first hit straight on, it will make a dent in it that you can then use the centre punch at an angle in it.

classy, but believe me it works! worst part of putting gearboxes back in is trying to get the angle right while rotating either the motor or output of the gearbox to get the splines to line up.... Thats when its good doing a rangie gearbox, stick it in gear, lock the transfer case, and you have a big handle at the pushing end to turn it over by! From memory, my zed gearbox didn't have anything sticking out the back, so you'll need to stick it in gear, possibly slide the tailshaft back on temporarily to help stop it turning, and get someone to turn the motor over slowly with a ratchet on the harmonic balancer, while you try to push it in!

there is another trick for an aligning tool - a bit of broom handle with some electrical tape to bring it up to size. Works very well, although using a dead input shaft is much quicker! Just curious, why would the throwout bearing need to be pressed on? when I put my 280 gearbox in, the throwout bearing was a complete assembly that just slides on, no pressing required? The brass spigot bush can be a pain to put in, but thats in the back of the crankshaft, and isn't too hard to fit with a soft faced hammer....

Megasquirt V3.0 is $270AUD delivered, in unassembled form. Mines all built, and loaded with the Extra code for many other functions, just collecting one or two pieces to actually fit it up. Or, if you wanted a built one, I'd build it for $400. If you run a Megaquirt with Extra code loaded, you can scrap the dizzy completely, and use commodore coil packs, or just scrap the ignition module and control spark from megasquirt. In my rangie I'm keeping the dizzy, locking the advance and getting rid of the module, and using megasquirt to drive the coil, and control the advance curve.

The 'Neo' engine is a redesign of the RB series to try and meet tighter emissions laws. However, far from being choked by it, its actually considerably more powerful than the earlier motors - as such, they're worth more than a normal RB. Quick search dug up these figures: R33 RB25DET: 250PS (approx 250 horsepower, but just slightly less) @ 6,400rpm, 294NM @ 4,800 rpm. R34 RB25DET (Neo): 280PS @ 6,400rpm, 340nm @ 3,200rpm. Can't remember the exact differences, but the intake manifold is definitely different, along with a few other bits and pieces.

The best power steering for your zed!

i don't recall my L28 ever having a crank angle sensor, and my 280Z efi supplement doesn't show it at all..... maybe an addition to late models, but i would be surprised?