gav240z

When you say arn't cheap what kind of price range are you talking about? I'd expect to pay anywhere from $900 - $1500 depending on the condition especially if it's a clutch type LSD, not a viscous fan myself.

Hi mate, by the time next year comes around I'm sure I'll have some money for them. I'll try to keep them in mind and set aside some money for them. I think they look awesome with the chrome band, shocking with the rubber. I had a set of aftermarket ones on my old 260z they were tinted aswell. I really didn't like them. The chrome band ones add a nice vintage look (very Ferrari). When it comes to a ZG it just looks wrong without them .

I always find Cup Holders funny, I think you only really need them if you plan on going to Macca's which I haven't been to in a very long time and don't plan to go at all :lol: . I have a stuffed centre console in my 240z it's snapped right in the middle. I would have sent it for repair but I think it's pretty stuffed. I bought one from the states on Ebay with one hairline crack in it $40 US it cost me and I think it's in good nick from the pics. I had it sent on the slow boat and I'm still waiting for it to arrive, not sure if it will arrive in one piece but fingers crossed it will. If and when I get it you'd be welcome to try repairing my old cracked one. I'll give you the stuffed one for free .

Does anyone know if it's easy to obtain R31 turbo front struts? I'm not that familiar with the different skyline models but I have read that the R31 front struts will allow for later brake kits like R32 calipers to bolt right up without the need for fabrication. This was being done to a 240z, not sure if it makes a difference with the 260z I imagine not. I'm not sure if there are differences between R31 turbo and non turbo struts but i'm guessing there is since the article I read explicitly mentioned they were turbo front struts. I also read in the article that the lower steering nuckles will need to be replaced since the stock ones won't work with the R31 struts, however since I'd be looking at fitting coil-overs and shortening the struts I'd want an integrated bump stop knuckle anyway so it's not really a problem. I guess the swap just allows you to have nice clean bolt up, upgraded brakes.

Hi everyone, just thought it was interesting to see this lot of items go for the price they did. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140044335867&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:11 I know the chrome headlight surrounds are expensive but these didn't even have the plastic covers with them. I placed a bid at the start and was probably willing to go to $120 at the most.

Hey Mike, I appreciate the rods it brings me one step closer albeit a small step closer. It's always a pleasure to share a drink and catch up with you and indulge in your Zcar and Datsun knowledge and overall Automotive knowledge. Louie came down which was good, would have been nice to see a few other faces but I guess it's hard when alot of our members had short notice and alot of members are really nationwide. Perhaps next time i'll oragnise it better. Tisk Tisk Tisk Sulio :lol:

Hi Everyone sorry about the late notice. However Mike from the Z Club of NZ http://www.zclub.org.nz/ is in Melbourne and I am meeting him for a social drink and chat and he's also helping me with some L14 rods. I believe Sulio (Toecutter) will also be coming along and I figured why not make it a social night for us fellow Zcar owners. It has been a while since a few of us got together. So if your interested we are meeting in Southbank at PJ O'Brien's Thursday the 26th of October at 6:30pm onwards. I'm not sure how long we will be there but I'd say it's safe to say at least a couple of hours. So if your up for a social night and a couple of pints of Guiness or any other of your favorite lager feel free to drop in and say hello. If anyone needs my mobile number either PM me or send me an email. :lol: Hope to see some of you guys there!

Here is an Update as sent to me by the NDSOC. 621_.doc

As sent to me by one of our members.. Great Alpine Road Rallye - Dinner Plain Victoria ~~~ Media Release - 16 October 2006~~~ The second Great Alpine Road Rallye will be held at Dinner Plain in Victoria's Alpine High Country from 29 -31 December 2006. Please find attached a media release along with a copy of the Rallye promotional postcard. Should you have any queries regarding the event please do not hesitate to contact the event organisers: Dan and Rosie White Drive Country Australia Phone: 02 6581 4595 Mobile: 0414 747 867 Email: drive.country@bigpond.com 619_.pdf 620_.pdf

Yes Sulio the 240z one is slightly more narrow around the top of the lever itself. The head another words is a different shape. The symbol on them is also slightly different over the years I think the early Series I 240z has a different icon to the later series II 240z and then it changed again for the 260z. So I think the best thing to do is give me your spare 240z choke lever since I have a genuine HS30 and your RS30 (wanna be HS30) should be able to find the 260z style one at a place such as ZWORX :lol: .

The most compatible heads would be the following: E30 E31 E88 I think the patrol one you are referring to is a P90 head. The P90 has quite large valves and would more than likely require that the block have valve reliefs inserted into it. Since the L26 block is probably stamped P30 which means it is the same block as the L24. The L26 just had a different stroke. It would be best to use a L28 block with any L28 head, but it is not impossible to modify the block to fit.

Hey Sulio, not too bad I guess I like it. I don't know about the big grin at the bottom would prefer to keep the existing treatment, perhaps make it a little different and keep the new bar grille concept. I like the headlight treatment and it looks like the rear lights are a bit more smoothed in. Of course I always prefer original designs by original authors hence the reason I prefer the early 240z's to the later 260z's. Seems everyone is doing the side vent in the fender, not sure it is does anything really other than aesthetic purposes. Who knows if this design will stay.

yeah it's me, I'm Gav240z everywhere I go on the net. I actually bid on them thinking they were Panasports but then realised they were 16" Superlites. They are very similar in design if not the same. I think I can see a tiny difference in the design. I'm not sure what's better Superlites or Panasports, I know Panasports are fairly expensive in comparison so who knows. I put in my max bid already if I get outbid so be it. I just prefer the longer spokes and would like 16" rims to accommodate Z32 calipers upfront. If I win them I'll sell my 15's so if you want those Evan I'll sell them cheap to you.

Hi Evan, I'd consider doing it myself. The tutorial posted on HybridZ is very good. You can tack weld it like he did then follow up with a full weld. The one saving grace of chopping the guards is the fact that the 2+2 shares the same guards. Infact all S30's do. I would image it would be fairly expensive to cut the guards or get someone to do it. Of course if your not confident with a welder perhaps it's better to get someone else to do it. I did a short welding course at my tafe/uni. From the look of the tutorial Austin cut the guards with an angle grinder. That probably left nothing of the original guard. A metal cutter might allow you to save the offcut if you ever change your mind. :lol:

Hi Daalp, I often see these on ebay. I've seen some new ones from time to time. Check out this link though for now http://search.ebay.com.au/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&from=R10&satitle=240z+ignition&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&floc=1&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=Postcode&ga10244=10425&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1&fsoo=1 Alternatively you could try a wreckers. I believe the ignition barrel is the same on many Datsun's including 120Y, 180B, 200B, 1600 (510) & 240z + 260z. They are a bit of a bitch to remove though as they have rounded heads on the bolts for security reasons, so you'll need something to dig into the metal and hammer it around if you get what I mean.

I haven't been able to get the contact details of this freelance writer yet. They are still stuck in my outlook on my old PC which is sitting doing nothing. I must remember to contact this guy and get this happening. Just read an interesting article regarding Michelle Downes: http://www.news.com.au/dailytelegraph/story/0,22049,20431902-5001021,00.html I'd love to see pictures of this 240z.

Hi Ben, yes front and rear wheel bearings are different on the Z at least they are on a 240z and I'm 99% sure that means 260z and 280z also. The rear has an inner and outer bearing, while the front has a single bearing. As suggested, I'd check drive train items such as uni joints on the tailshaft(s) or possibly an unbalanced tyre. Do you get any vibrations with this grumbling? Gearbox bearings will cause a grumble while driving are you auto or manual?

Thanks alot guys this information is really helpful. I certainly understand much more now and I'm sure I'll refer to this in future. I'm going to make it a sticky post! :lol:

Hey Sulio, thanks for your reply and no it wasn't too long at all. You see I understand what Matt and Warren are doing, I had a 73 240z before this and I loved it, so much so I began stripping it to give it the proper restoration that I would love to do with my current car. However the problem was I was a Uni student and I could see too many compromises and expenses for my budget. Once you added it all up it started to look like $15,000 later and I'd have it back on the road. When your still a Uni student it's hard to put $3000 together let alone $15k So what did I do? Well rather than look at a project in the garage that I knew I couldn't finish, I found my current Z and it's what really kept me into Zeds sure the body isn't perfect but it looked/looks pretty smick. I really enjoyed driving it but again being a Uni student I was limited with what I could do with it. Now I work full time and money is still hard but more forgiving. It's time I need more of, but the past week I've been polishing an old valve cover, until the huge dent appeared. Doesn't it always seem like you try and take 2 steps forward only to take 5 back? Anyway the fact is I've been thinking about doing body work to fix some issues since I bought her. I know that what I do now won't be a final solution but it sure is a hell of alot better than leaving the rust and dents and what not. I want to enjoy the car in summer, but with a dent and scratch down the side as big as a mobile phone it will just piss me off. I want to enjoy it and for me the only way I can enjoy my car is if it looks respectable. I might be a novice at body work but the only way to learn is to jump in and give it a go. I was afraid to give it a go on my old Z and I don't wish to make the same mistake twice. Hell I want to mount flares but cutting the guards up is something I couldn't bring myself to do yet. Look what happens, is that irony or what? I have been reading Wick Humble's how to restore your Zcar book. I have been looking over the body work section and gaining more confidence that I can do it. The rust work I may consider getting professional help but the prep and possibly painting I might do myself. The prep work is the hard part any monkey can spray from what I've read. I think if I work on it from now until summer after work, I can get it done before christmas. I'll be able to enjoy the new bullet mirrors and the super smooth non-fluted bonnet. Plus I'll have the enjoyment of a fresh paint job, sure it won't be perfect but what is?

Well although everyone doesn't think I should paint it again. I think I should, I would really like to learn how to paint and do prep work. A friend of mine managed to paint his commodore yellow and he's fairly lazy when it comes to the detail side of things. There were areas you could tell needed improvement but on the whole it didn't look too bad. I just don't want to patch up the area the car will start to look like it should be called patches. To do the body work properly will take way too long at this stage. I enjoy being able to drive the car and taking it off the road for longer than 6 months at this stage will be a killer for me. Doing all that would involve taking out the interior, the engine and all that fun stuff. I can at least treat all the major rust in it, granted some will be left over but more than likely not visible. The car has been fairly well looked after over the years I'm technically the 3rd owner and the previous one had it for 27 years. If I do most of the prep and even spray work, I'll learn something and save alot of $$$ since paint work is really about labour and not materials. I'm still not 100% sure, so I think I'll speak with a few body work experts and spray painters and see what would be the best option.

Here is a list of images showing the areas my car needs attention in. So there we have it all the problem spots and the reason I believe I should just give her a new lick of paint. The only area which I think will be expensive is really the doors. I'm keen to give painting and prep work a shot.

Well I went and saw Talladega Nights tonight, which helped me cool off a bit. On the bright side of things it could have been worse. I mean it could have been the roof and thank god it wasn't. Ok well looking at my car as a whole:- Doors need to be repaired(Inner skins are rusted). Fuel Tank Filler (Surface rust spot coming through). Bonnet was poorly painted and looks dull (Don't like the vented hood much either) Have a spare non-fluted to go on. The front panels could use a proper line up(a minor accident has caused the front of the car to not properly align good chance to fix this). My g/f bought me a set of bullet mirrors and I haven't mounted them because the existing mirrors will leave a mark underneath where the paint looks funny (minor rust). All these items in consideration and I think the best bet here is to give her another lick of paint all around. Repair the rust but not go to bare metal now. I would like to properly strip the car in the future, give her a sand blast and really tackle the whole car. I would like to paint her Silver as she was originally that colour but for now I'll stick with red since that's the engine bay colour. I don't wan't to go too crazy at this stage just a good enough job to last a couple of years while I build my crazy L28 and work on other mechanical items. I'm so gonna regret pulling her apart :roll: :cry:

Your having a great day when something like this happens.... Yep this is what happens when people don't do things properly. My step dad is one of those people unfortunately and decided not to bolt down the overhead lights in the garage. So I could go on forever about how angry I am. What I really need to do is fix it. Who can give me some advice on the best way to fix it? It needs paint and the dent has to be beaten out. :roll:

That's great so 7 or more to go. C'mon guys this is a great upgrade, it's simple, easily reversible and it's great for those running aftermarket headlights, stereo's & electronic ignition. The only expensive part is rebuilding a ZX alternator.