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gav240z

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Everything posted by gav240z

  1. A couple of years ago HS30 00404 was listed for sale. https://photos.app.goo.gl/987RJtk9Hq4vVQbQ6 It was 905 red. Can you confirm what the original colour of your car was? Engine bay has hints of blue but external colour is red-ish and boot area also looks red. Cars were often made in the same colour depending on chassis sequence. HS30 00409 was 907 Green and found in QLD. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6Qnk6kJ5PRg2iWoM9 Any idea what the panels are half off your car? Would have been far better if it was sitting complete, now the interior is likely filthy.
  2. 71b box but can't say what ratios.
  3. I bought the Stagea about a year ago to replace the Jimny. I was doing a lot of interstate travel and the Jimny wasn't freeway friendly. Plus the missus and I are expecting our first child in August. So the Stagea is a GTR for a family man. I've had my wife and 2 friends in the back plug the dog in the boot with it. It's quite funny. But fun. All my cars are in Victoria now and all the parts with it. Big effort. Don't wanna do that again.
  4. Another issue with the car was that I heard a squeaking noise if the car was left to idle low for a while. Can you guess why? The damn oiler bar snapped off at the end and was sitting in the corner of the cylinder head. So the rear #6 valve train doesn't get appropriate oil at idle, at higher rpm it's fine because so much oil is flicked about it gets lubricated. I had the old oiler bar off the E31 in #150 - since we converted that to an internally oiled cam when it was rebuilt. But since #150's engine was sitting with blown head gasket the oiler bar was rusty inside on 1 end. I had noticed also the oiler bar was quite bent so the sandwich plate didn't sit flat on the rear, which would mean oil would be lost out the gap and not go into the channel with the oil squirter holes. So I think I'll source a better oiler bar, than try and clean this 1 up. Plus it's also got a loose end bit like the 1 that was on there..I really hate the oiler bar. My first 240z (73) had the same problem with a snapped oiler bar in the head (same end of the motor too). But for now I don't plan to change the cam over so I'll just need to find a good 1 and install it. I haven't really started it up in the last couple of weeks because I was waiting for the oiler bar issue to be resolved. If I am going to pull the cylinder head off this car at any point I'll change the cam/oiler bar set up and remove the brass valve seats at the same time. But for now I'm keeping it as is. I had intended to have it on the road by now on club registration but with the Covid-19 lock down it's put things on hold for now. However while it was on temp registration for 20 odd days, I used it to pick up the keys to our new house on settlement day. She looks at home next to the Stagea :). I've since put a car cover over it. Oh and sadly the clock I had restored by Ron has stopped working, so I need to pull it out again! Damn...
  5. Since I saw the car and the wheels on it, I've been curious about their origins. As you probably know I got some advice from various experts via Facebook that they may be Fuji Auto Cobra's. Google Searching revealed nothing! Nada. Zip... I put up a listing on a few Facebook groups specialising in vintage / unique JDM style wheels. Which gave me a brochure from 1981 showing the wheel design and a small blurb. After talking to Alan about them @HS30-H he hazard a guess that they (Fuji Industries) were importing the Cobra wheels and wholesaling them to other retailers throughout Japan. to paraphrase Alan a bit: I was also under the impression they may have been 15" but after seeing the size specs, I had a look and low and behold they are 14"... Given the lock down we're all under now I'm thinking now may be a good time to pull them off the car, polish them up and paint the centre a gold colour and re-anodize the black bolts. I'm thinking of some white letter tyres to go on them. But 14" tyre sizes are limited and especially with nice white lettering for that 70s period look. Any suggestions on possible tyres? (The ones on there are from 2007 so 13 years old now and quite hard).
  6. This has been a multi-day effort, sorting through fasteners etc.. was the first step, which allowed me to finish the radio and the fuel pump and begin the rebuild on the Mikuni/Solex carbs and of course find the hardware for the steering wheel. Sorting through replated bolts is not fun. I can thank Covid-19 for giving me idle time... Nikki Fuel Pump is now rebuilt. Mikuni/Solex carbs and associated parts are much better sorted now. I bought half of them in bits and with spares etc. so half of what I'm doing is sorting through what I do and don't have. Even that is a pain. With half my jets floating around in plastic bags. I have a few gasket kits but it turns out they are for the 5 screw lid, not 4 screw. There is likely a few hundred dollars of parts to order but since I'm not working I'm trying not to spend money on non-essentials at this point. So just doing things that have 0 cost. I'll order gaskets and jets and parts missing once the economy looks better and I've got some work again. I've also been messing with the Antenna for the radio, putting power to the unit I can hear the motor, but the antenna mask doesn't extend, no idea why yet. It seems fused. Like corrosion is stopping it move.
  7. I had nearly finished this steering wheel a couple of years ago and it's been sitting collecting dust. Until I got the hardware back and installed it and WOW, it just adds a new level to the restoration! Especially considering how poor the wheel looked before. I got this wheel cheap off a friend in San Francisco (think it was $100 USD). And I put about $300 USD worth of effort into restoring it. :). This is for #51 when the time comes.
  8. Should change this thread title to, "What have you done to your Z since Covid-19 Lockdown?" I disassembled an AM radio a while ago that was damaged in transit (seller only put it in a cardboard box and the chassis took a good hard beating on the way over from Europe). Whipped the PCB off a corner. Which I repaired. To remove the chassis from the circuit board you have to de-solder a few points (sadly). Which makes this tricky and time consuming.. Video of it working here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/VonPvkZ95MR1McA46 I still need to find the RF Choke which goes in the fuse holder, order a new fuse holder assembly and OEM plug (http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/66) and re-apply the model sticker/decal. Greg Hassen I believe made reproduction labels here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53334-wtb-hitachi-radio/?do=findComment&comment=502985 Condition of radio before. After... If there is interest in creating a step by step guide on how to disassemble these and re-assemble let me know? I have more radios to restore...
  9. #402 would be a late 70 build. Looks like it was originally blue (903) which is quite rare on an early car like this. It looks solid enough, provided you can get it out of the shed and do something with it.
  10. http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/id/22278/latest/1 Datsun 260z 2+2 with Les Collins built 3.4ltr motor.
  11. https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/m394872894
  12. https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/b453346550 Old car Baku Rare Made Discontinued Discontinued Nissan Sports Corner 10,000 rpm 10,000 rpm Tachometer Meter S30 240 240Z 240ZG Search 432 432R S20 PZR NISMO
  13. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c814513227 77 Model Fairlady Z 2 seater.
  14. First image is for S20 Mikuni/Solex carbs so they command GTR tax. But properly set up and rebuilt 44s on Manifold command good money because it's expensive now to do them right. I am rebuilding 2 sets now. Lot of messing about. Vapour blasting was expensive ($600+) and manifold about $700-800 on its own. Then all the jets, gaskets etc..slowly adds up.
  15. Good set of Triple Mikuni's 44s are going for $5k+ these days. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w382706421 35 bids and 334,333 yen (AU $ 5,162.11) so far.. 2 days to go.
  16. https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/l593545751 Central 20 wheels. Super Rare Z Sport Central 20 Aluminum alloy wheel 7JOFFSET 0 14 inches S30 240Z 432 Hacoska Sunny 510 Bluebird Current Price 250,000 yen (AU $ 3,860.00) 21 hours to go..
  17. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r394133616 Car name: Fairlady Z Color: White  Year : 1976 Current Price 6,780,000 yen (AU $ 104,683.20)
  18. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q357347561 July 73 model. Current Price 7,890,000 yen (AU $ 121,821.60)
  19. A TAFE class at nights. He was working on restoring a 240z and 260z 2+2.
  20. AU $1,000.00 (0 Bids) End Date: Sunday Apr-26-2020 19:30:21 EST Bid now | Add to watch list View This Ad
  21. I just wish they would go back to an inline 6 again. Not really a fan of V6 mang mang.
  22. Thank you Paul, I'm glad you find the site useful.
  23. Best to get in contact with the family. It's a very sad situation I'm afraid.
  24. Good time to launch a sports car. Amongst the greatest downturn since the 1930s. I'm sure they'll sell a bunch.
  25. https://www.ebay.com/itm/283712001503 Prices are ouch given current exchange rates. You could also try plastic weld the cracks in the ring? Or repair the cracks.
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