gav240z

Now Gnose conversion? You're almost there with the full Works 240ZR kit. No rear view mirrors?

You can get replica's for around $300 but the genuine ones you're lucky to score around $400 (used). There is umpteen million of them on Yahoo! Auctions which still baffles me as to their high price at this stage.

What about the Nismo (Nissan Compe) wheel? No BAWS required?

Yep you mean like this? SRC: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/check-out-my-ride/46713-my-1970-240z-hs30-00084-a.html#post404247 I went out to have a look, the angle is different but it could have been put in that way. But I think the pointed *arrow head snapped off it. I've found 1 on Yahoo! Auctions but it's hard to tell from the photos if it's the 'correct' unit for the early 240z. Certainly looks like it but not sure? Anyone got a photo of the complete unit?

Thanks for clarifying I know North American only got the 260z for 1 year so I wasn't sure if it included the 2+2 - which I'd say is even more rare now because there are not many 260z's in North America. I really like the Green Metallic colour on the 2+2's.

Says best offer accepted. Seems 240z's are getting picked up very quickly these days and at decent prices. Very interesting times ahead.

Ok these are still on the market due to high cost of shipping to the US of A. Best price I could find was via Australia Post (item is around 2-3 kg in weight, box size is about 20cm cubed). Freight to New York with insurance was around $130 AU. Not sure if that's good or bad or if anyone has a better suggested carrier? Anyway if anyone is interested let me know? If you want more photos of them disassembled also let me know?

Ok fellas, devils advocate here. But so what if they have multiple eBay accounts? So what if they're not a car dealer? It doesn't mean anything bad about the car. So of course go see it yourself if you're interested. Now to flip it around here is what concerns me. 1. States lack of rust, yet doesn't provide detailed photos of said areas of lack of rust like sills, lower fenders, doors (in and out), battery removed etc.. rear hatch slam panel. List goes on.... 2. Says should be an easy road worthy, define easy I say! It looks to have been sitting a while and likely will need new bushings, some rust repair (I'd be surprised if it's as clean as advertised), brakes will likely need work, along with suspension. And just try finding a replacement 240z mirror these days! 3. In my opinion it's had at least 1 respray, that fluted bonnet is the original bonnet that's been modified to fit a later flute (Note position and only 1 side), it does look relatively original and unmolested though, original wheel, gear knob etc.. But the seats were trimmed poorly and it's obviously on 260z wheels with a front spoiler etc.. I do think it is good buying provided it's as rust free as claimed, but I do think it will need some work. Shame about brown. But buy based on condition not colour.

The 2+2 is a great car, I loved mine - even if it was a heap. It wasn't because it was a 2+2 but because it was a neglected mess. Still it was a lot of fun and every bit an S30z in terms of feel and character. The wider wheel base did make the car more predictable. In Australia they are quite common, however on a global level they are actually quite rare. I'm not sure how many units were sold in Japan but in the US of A they didn't get many 2+2's (280z's) and I can't recall seeing many of those around for sale in the US these days. Very rare really. I believe they got a few in the UK but any S30z over there is now very rare and has been for some time. Still quite affordable and obtainable they are a sensible classic to buy now and enjoy for years to come. Sadly I've not seen many properly looked after or restored due to their lower perceived value. I would own another, I'd feel less guilty about putting a modern engine in 1 and some mod-cons like air-con / power steer etc..

FYI: These were mint and sold for over $800 AUD. http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g138179638 That is before shipping and broker fee's etc..

Ok new item number. Ebay also states that 22 people per hour are viewing it. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1973-manual-240z-datsun-2-dr-coupe-PRICED-FOR-A-QUICK-SALE-/261622931616

So... got a call today about the engine block. Had it sonic tested. Apparently only good for a 1mm over-bore and standard rebuild. So I'm going to take my other F54 (I got with the n42 head) in for comparison and see which block is worth pursuing further for this rebuild. I was a little surprised, but it's a bit of a lucky dip out there.

Yeah looks like it's been pulled. It was an honest looking car priced quite cheap. Wouldn't surprise me if she was snapped up already.

Are you sure? It is a 73 240z brown. Apparently no major rust. Just shy of 17k

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261622931616&alt=web Be fast. Be very fast!

Hey Peter, I thought of you and your project when reading that article. In some ways 3D printing such a vehicle would be cheating in a way.

Interesting also as it discusses 3D printing around vehicle restoration. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/news/vintage-speed/3d-printing-can-now-re-create-an-entire-classic-car-15566080

Just watched a documentary on Netflix called "Print the Legend" - it was more about the start up environment around 3D printing than actually useful from a 3D print -how to / pro's or con's perspective. However it did cover 2 companies. MakerBot - which have this cool Digitizer product for scanning in elements. http://store.makerbot.com/digitizer And FormLabs. http://formlabs.com/en/products/form-1-plus/

Not sure if it is too late? But I have the white tokico adjustable shocks in my red 240z. I have lowered king springs but don't know what they are rated at. I find the ride very harsh on all but the lowest setting. I'd probably look at konis if I was looking again.

Yeah the only tricky part is to make the bracket work in such a way that it won't impede the ash tray and will align correctly with the hole in the console. The other benefit of doing this is that there is less slop in the operation of the choke, so the choke set up works better also.

Wow, nice DIY there. I'm inspired by your fiberglass mould work. I recently got a couple of unique spoilers for the S30z I'd like to reproduce. Will have to give this a go at some stage, time permitting of course. The dashboard top coat is interesting, is it the lighting or have you gone for a sort of patina effect with the paint? Can't tell if it's the texture or not?

I will do my best to be there, even if it means I use the Suzuki Jimny. The RX-7 has rego due and I need to get is inspected for it's pink slip. If I can bring the FD I will, would be nice to take it out.

Hey guys, I just came across this auction on eBay that shows a handy little bracket to help prevent damage to your console. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271617565135 These always crack next to the choke lever because of the force/load exerted on the console when you pull the choke out multiple times. I was thinking of creating a similar bracket, but thought I'd share here since it's probably not that hard to make 1 provided you can see what it looks like here. Earlier console's and later 260z ones didn't seem to have this problem.

This made me laugh, bicycle tube on exhaust.

Sold and sent out this morning.