gav240z

Here is another Dashboard repair technique and guide.

Quick bump for a good thread that died. @240z_AU - Do you remember the chassis number of that totaled 240z of yours? It would be good to add it to my records.

My prayers have been answered, perhaps there is a god? I got access tonight lol..

Since I was working in Melbourne I didn't get a whole lot of time to take the car out and work on it. But I did manage to on a few days. Even when the weather was less than brilliant like New Years day, I was a bit worried the wipers wouldn't work but thankfully they did so long as the windscreen was wet first. In this first photo I used a bit of photoshop to remove the vents and fix a couple of minor things like remove a mirror on the side of the car and the white patch on the bonnet. I also added back a bonnet badge. All things I intend to do at some point. I think it looks much much better. In fact I ordered a set of louvered inspection lids to retain the benefit of a fluted bonnet but at the same time keep the aesthetics pleasing. I also think the louvers are a bit of a hat tip to what Tony (previous owner) had on the bonnet. I always liked the look of them peering down the bonnet from the drivers position also. The benefit of the inspection flaps being vented is that if I change my mind later they are easily interchangeable unlike a bonnet if you cut holes in it, they are much harder to find in good shape now. I managed to read this book. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15545-datsun-240z-engineering-development-by-hitoshi-uemura/ In it Hitoshi mentions some vapour lock problems they had with 260z's in the US and 1 of the solutions was they added vents to the bonnets (as in cut them!) I've seen some US market cars with lots of flutes in the hood which I always thought was odd or aftermarket but now I'm thinking they were part of the 260z remedy to vapour lock. Next few photos are also slightly doctored, I took these in Port Melbourne right before the West Gate Bridge. I thought it would add a bit of flair . Lighting is crap and it was totally off the cuff so not planned. But I think the setting worked. My partner tried to snap a photo of me driving the car also, but with the overcast day, the flash and not being able to look at the Camera for longer than a second while driving it turned out blurry, you can just see the wipers are on and the rain. I also renewed the registration for another year whilst in Melbourne and some bloke came up to me at Vicroads asking about the car. You can't take these things out 1 day without someone wanting to buy it.

I haven't updated this in a while... Let's see a quick summary of recent happenings with this car.. 1. Rear bumper photos are here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12896-wtb-rear-bumper-2-seater-s30z/?p=186589 Which I still have to fit, but I am in 2 minds about it, on the 1 hand it will look awesome. On the other the rest of the car isn't perfect. So I'm not sure if I should use the bumper off #150 and use some elbow grease and autosol + brasso to tidy it up and stick it on. Keep the re-chromed bumper for #150? I still have to get all the hardware to put it on too! I also need to source some rubber trims (which are expensive) it all adds up. 2. I taped up all trim and rubbers and finally got around to using the dual action polisher on the paint work. Before I knew any better I used to polish by hand using all sorts of products. It would take me hours and the result was never perfect. I once tried a cheap polishing machine which left bad marks all over the paint. Using the DA polisher I was able to correct a lot of imperfections but not all. It was painted in the early to mid 90s so I guess I can't expect too much. It's a single stage paint also. When I didn't know any better I used cut and polish products that took too much paint off near a couple of edges on the front fender. Hence why I tape up all edges now. I was a lot younger and more naive and of course there was less information in general 10-12 years ago re: clay bars, polishers, techniques etc.. 3. I finally installed a Hazard Switch in the car. I reckon it's the best mod you can do for $12 (not including cost of switch - just relay). Only negative was the hole I cut looks wrong. I later figured out why. The dashboard was vacuum formed many years ago during restoration. Since AU market cars never had the hazard switch they also didn't have an existing hole in that indentation in the dash. When the new skin is formed without a hole behind it, the vinyl won't sink into the hole.. Hard to explain. If you watch the process on video you'll understand. (There is a couple 240z/260z dashboard videos being done floating around also). Top tip: Cut a hole here when restoring your dash so the vinyl properly sinks into the hole. if you plan ot use hazard switch of course. I need to come up with some kind of garnish trim to place around the switch and neaten it up at some point.

2 more,..

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1207477172663558&id=708176415926972 Zshop selling RS30 00918

Was gonna suggest e-go also lol..

You mean original Topy Steel Wheels? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15710-topy-steel-spare-wheels-eoi/?do=findComment&comment=186838

Someone on that group mustn't like me, I still can't get access to it.

Hey Clinton, This thread should give you an idea of some of the last HS30's sold in Australia. You're a little way off the last I'm afraid. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13437-chassis-number-bingo/ I had my rear bumper re-done at Vinnies in Dandenong. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12896-wtb-rear-bumper-2-seater-s30z/?p=176976 I didn't deal with any surface rust, they did that. Only problem is the finish is so good it will look too nice for the rest of the car. That's kind of my problem with the bumper on my 72 240z.

A couple of it's sister cars.. HS30 01427 https://goo.gl/photos/dJne9hk6W3g4aQ3V8 HS30 01428 https://goo.gl/photos/RSof8rwJ4HC5LjxM6 Both were also originally 918 Kalahari tan cars. I'm finding a lot of cars in close sequence which makes sense, considering they would have been made together and shipped together and likely sold together once here.

It was actually HS30 01425.

The ID plate confirms beyond doubt it was an AU market delivered car. The only other cars to get HS30 prefix were the Fairlady 240Z and the Fairlady 240ZG models in Japan. However they didn't have engine numbers stamped onto the ID plate. Also they were Nissan's, not Datsun's and of course you can see this car's original motor was an L24 055242. The ID plate and compliance plates are different. I don't see any photos of a compliance plate. It may never have had 1 fitted either. As a 71 model it's possible it never had it.

Seems we have a few folks flipping cars lately for profit. I guess that's the way it goes when an asset market becomes hot.

Seems legit, my 72 is HS30 10552 so a bit earlier than this car and engine no. is L24 078080. This 72 is a bit later.

Afraid not, but hey instead you could offer up your own trivia question and keep the game going?

Bingo! Yes, the photo from Jeff above is from here (1969): http://www.austousa.com/Information.aspx?id=1683&keyword=&description=false&minprice=&price=&cid=0&sidx=0&eidx=30 http://www.earlydatsun.com/cedric130series.html Basically this is still an L-series engine L23 to be precise. Right before the introduction of the L24 in Australia.

It's 2.3 litre yes and the wheelbarrow is not original. ?

Yes it does.. I see where you got that photo from also . I saw 1 of these cars at the Gosford Car Museum.

Warm, but not there yet.

Yes but don't spoil the fun.

I'm guessing you know Jason? But if you're not sure, definitely getting warmer. Mid 1960's is definitely accurate.

Some fun trivia, anyone wanna take a guess what motor this is? I'm guessing 1 or 2 members would know instantly, but maybe give a couple of newbies a shot at it.

Your car? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/home-hill/cars-vans-utes/1972-datsun-240z/1135304033