gav240z

By the way did it have an L24 swap (early L24 motor)?

I'm keen on the flange driveshaft. Will reply to your PM shortly.

Appears to be an early Fairlady Z-L in rough shape. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/298989348

Early 240z in North America already with strong bidding. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153031651792

2+2 asking prices in Japan. Since some people were asking me recently if they are really getting up there. Sort of been this way a while in Japan now. I'm starting to see a pick up in North American asking prices for them too. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v555134040 Current Price 2,300,000 yen (AU$28,750.00) Buyout Price 3,500,000 yen (AU$43,750.00)

Might be 1 to watch. http://www.zcar.com/forum/19-sale-parts-accessories/417386-huge-assortment-s30-parts-engines-body-kits-body-panels-complete-cars.html https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57945-sold-240-260-280-280zx-many-cars-for-sale/

Don't worry vice grip was on non threaded part of the stud. Not that silly. ? Thanks for suggestion on SU needles. I hate breaking stuff when it isn't necessary.

I've got a turret up here in need of some love? If it's of any help, but yes the A posts will be needed.

Thanks George did you wire everything up or let the platers do it? I guess the things to worry about are bolts that don't have any natural closed circular area for a wire to go through and hold in place. There is quite a bit of grease on the linkage arm that connects to the manifold for the carb drop links. I was going to maybe clean that up as best as possible. I've already degreased a bunch of stuff, but it's amazing how much crap I still got on my hands even after dousing the lot in carbie cleaner a few times. I find that it helps lift the grease for a while, but if you don't remove it right away it sort of sits back down again and as you disassemble there is grease lodged into every corner of a part - undisturbed for some 40 years. Also if I recall it's ok to leave rubber parts and plastic parts during the plating process (as in the process doesn't harm those) is that right? I've removed them anyway in this instance, but good to know for the future - however some cannot be removed like the bell ends (hehe - don't know their correct term)) on the linkages.* They should have made all plastics on a Z out of those accelerator pivot plastics, they seem to never break or get old and crumble.. Maybe it's bakerlite?

The throttle shaft bushings can wear and cause a vacuum leak, making them impossible to tune or sync between each other. I've never heard of using shims with the nozzle and needles... I'd say probably a case of wrong / needle / seat set up more than anything else, if shims fixes it. PS: I saw on your video you mentioned that for some reason people don't like the flat top SU's on 260z's. My take on this is that they are mostly misunderstood, Gordon Dobbie also mentioned this once before, problem with them is rebuild kits are not easy to come across and you need to understand how they work to properly tune them. They also have a separate idle circuit which actually makes them superior to the early ones in some respects as you can have a lean idle, but richer mixture in general without fouling at the plugs at idle. Anyway you have what you have on the car now.

Can I got second in line for the 3.9 ratio diff? I'll be doing an auto->manual conversion at some point and want to the 3.9 rear end.

Ha Dunlop SP aquajets on HS30 00004. Interesting indeed! I wonder why they shipped different tyres in different markets? Perhaps road conditions?

No photo? That car is HS30 00004 (KNL 127).

So actual updates on the car, I've started to pull apart the SUs and intake manifold. I originally planned to leave 1 carb alone as a guide/template for putting the other back together, but then I realised that's 2 lots of vapour blasting, 2 lots of yellow passivate plating and 2 trips to each location and back and it was all just getting too hard in my mind. So I decided to bag it all up, take photos of everything and I can hopefully put it all back together again later. Worst case scenario I have the set off my 72 240z now that I put the 44's on it and I can use those as a reference point. Small clips and springs are my biggest concern getting re-plated, so I've tried to disassemble as much as I can but left stuff that looks like it will go missing or get lost. By the way is there anyway to remove the old needles without destroying them? I think carbon deposits means they get super stuck and won't budge.. I've got replacement SM size needles anyway, but maybe there is a trick to removing them without damage? I can't recall if George said you need to spend a lot of time degreasing this mess for best results or not? (Will look in his build thread). Be aware the Z-Therapy rebuild kit, really consists of a fuel hose, clamps, gaskets, needles and nozzles. Other items that would be useful but are missing are: 1. The fuel filters that slip over the intake for the fuel bowl fastener. (as you can see mine were filthy!) 2. No rubber isolators etc.. so you'll have to reuse these (for mount of fuel bowl to carb). So be careful removing them. 3. No crush washers - so I'll have to source new ones somewhere (maybe carby specialist?) 4. No floats! Not sure if I'll source new ones, mine seem ok but not sure how old they are? I could not remove the studs from the inlet manifolds (at least not without damaging them with vice grips - even with a rag over the top) and the water inlets are rusted. Lachlan has said to drop them in with him. I guess he will heat them up to extract them? The whole lot with get vapour blasted for that beautiful finish, the fasteners will all be gold passivate plated for OEM look and I'll probably polish up the SU domes to a mirror like finish (not strictly OEM - but I like the look). This I can imagine is all very labour intensive if you paid someone to do it, by doing the majority of the work myself I'm hoping to save a bit of cash, but I think most people who rebuild these don't completely dismantle them like this. (and I can kind of see why)..

Bit of Safari Gold to share with you lot.. Car is currently in Guam. Part of the original Z restoration program in the 90s. NB: Colour of the dashboard..has a greyish tint to it. I believe they used NOS parts where available in these. Sensational colour

We must talk to the same birdy

I didn't buy it for the record.

I think we will see the car again soon.

Yes 1mm thick is probably the stuff to get. Although the rear valance section is quite a bit thinner than the rest I've found. So it depends on the sections you're working on.

So full disclaimer, I recently received a free copy of this book after the publishing company sent me a copy for review. Company: Veloce Publishing Ltd. Website: www.veloce.co.uk Book ISBN: 978-1-787112-02-5 (use to search for the book on their site) Price: £ 12.99 + P&P (eBook prices vary, and delivery is free) So what do I think? The book is great for anyone green to the S30Z series and looking to buy a "240z" in particular. I put 240z in quotes because whilst it may touch on models outside of the 240z range, it doesn't really go into any depth. So buyers looking to purchase a home market Fairlady Z, 260z, 280z or even Fairlady 240Z or any of the 2+2's (which are not mentioned at all), may find some chapters irrelevant. However considering the current book price and the cost of buying a bad Z, the book is cheap insurance to help you avoid buying a lemon. Although given the way 240z values are going lately and the lack of good supply, and buyers with champagne taste but beer budgets, sometimes you take what you can get. However the book may help you find the car that suits your budget, goals and skill level. It's a pocket reference, not an encyclopedia and I acknowledge that it's likely written to suit a specific publisher format in keeping with a series of similar books, therefore it probably cannot stray too far from the defined series path. Trying to cover everything about the "240z" in a small pocket reference is not an easy task, so it does a good job at a general overview and introduction, perhaps my favorite recommendation in this book is to use borescope to view critical areas of a 240z where it rusts, that may not be visible via any other means. If you take only 1 tip/recommendation away from this book, take this 1. There are a few errors or omissions such as the fact that the blue interior is referred to as "peacock" blue, which I've never really heard of before and the red interior was completely missing from the specification of options. Although it does score points for talking up the importance of the blue interior as being "rare" and potentially adding value . It is very much oriented towards buyers in the UK (and maybe Europe) and therefore it does cover the Samurai's and their history, although I'd say many outside of the UK would probably not be that interested in these modified HS30's and or obtaining 1 over the garden variety HS30s sold locally in Australia. It briefly touches on different market specification HS30's (such as AU vs UK) and the pro's and con's of buying each, it also touches on importing an HLS30 (North American or Europe spec 240z) and what to be wary of when dealing with a car half way around the world. The clubs and references section doesn't mention this site, which I find odd if only because it mentions various US based club sites, many of which I've never heard of and this is the single best reference on the Internet bar none! . So I'll have to dock a few points for that omission. Overall though I'm glad a book like this exists and will be my goto reference from now on when a newbie asks for advice on buying a Z (well 240z). After nearly 20 years of being involved with S30Z's the book is perhaps not that useful to someone like myself, but if I had the book 20 years ago it would have been a different story. So if you're looking to buy a 240z and don't want to comb through hundreds of forum threads to learn about all to look for, grab a copy! Official Blurb below.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/d/datsun-240z-nice-71/6574189140.html Looks good, but comes up a little short for a "restoration". Datsun 240Z Nice 71 - $25000 Capped chassis rail?

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/1970-datsun-240z-series-1/6587895240.html 1970 Datsun 240z Series 1 super Rare car - $20000 (Las Vegas)

Plastic? I thought it was a metal clip?

Following..

I don't think this is original. But I think it's from the 71 (spare wheel). I'll have to check the date stamp on the wheel itself, since although these came with my 71 240z the Topy's were dated 1974. Perhaps to go to 5j from 4.5j.