AussieZed Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 I reckon this ought to open a can of worms... Finally getting to spend some time on the 240z. Some of the repairs definitely need steel (dog legs, sills, floor pans) but I am wondering about some of the 'pin holes' along the front edge of the roof. Have cleaned them up with a Dremel, rust killed the inside of the roof skin, and they really are just little holes. The question is, do I bog them up (which I can do myself) or pay for them to be patched. Does bog ever work?? If so are there brands I should be using or avoiding?? Appreciate any advice. Ross Quote
nizm0zed Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 yes, polyester filler (bog) is perfectly acceptable to use. Even professional workshops use it. however, you should allways aim to use the absolute least amount possible. so, for your pinholes, i'll assume you have cleaned all the rust out then treated with a rust sealer/converter. You dont want it coming back later on to ruin your hard work. Assess the amount of filler you'll need. Can you push the metal outwards to reduce the amount? (in this case, probably not) Choose your filler. for an area or dent, use the bog filler. If its just some pinholes in otherwise perfect metal, consider blade putty. Blade putty is basically bog in a tube, it sets pretty quickly one exposed to air (skins almost immediately) Its generally used to fill minor scratches, pinholes, air bubbles in filler ect ect. (read the pack for directions) as for brands, depends on the job your doing. K&H, Septone, SCA brands will work fine for a repair on an old dunger but i generally find you end up with a lot of air bubbles in them and the shrinkage can be a pain to deal with. Stick to name brands like 3M. It could pay to have a talk to professional paint shops and ask what they use. (Disclaimer, im not an expert, this is not expert advice ) Quote
Scoota G Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 All 3M Products at my local Supercheap Auto were 50% until they sell everything. Not sure about other stores. Quote
neRok Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 I reckon this ought to open a can of worms...opening a can of bog would be more effective K&H is 3M's brand of body products. http://solutions.3m.com.au/wps/portal/3M/en_AU/AU_AAD/Home/Solutions/Filler/?PC_7_RJH9U5230OLLB0II6IU3PQ1GV6000000_assetId=1180588574816 Quote
1600dave Posted March 29, 2012 Posted March 29, 2012 Personally, I'd weld, especially if you are welding other areas of the car. If you do use bog, tap the pinhole and an area maybe the size of a 20c coin surrounding the pinhole down a little (a mm or 2 would be enough tapping down). This enables you to get a decent chunk of bog in and smooth it so its level with the surrounding panel rather than having to build it proud of the surrounds. Once finished, you MUST get in behind the patched area and thoroughly seal the rear of the bog (eg the little bog-worm coming through the pinhole) to prevent it absorbing moisture and causing even worse rust to come through your nice shiny new paint in a short time. Choose your own rust proofing - I like a mix of Tectly and fish oil. Quote
Retro Z Posted March 29, 2012 Posted March 29, 2012 Depending how large/many pinholes you may want to glue or weld something behind the panel as that will help the filler adhere and give that area abit more strength so the filler doesnt crack or seep through when your applying. I use UPOL flywire filler, I find it to be the best filler as its easy to sand and doesnt leave pinholes and also has abit more flex than K&H etc..but its a bit more expensive. Quote
C.A.R. Posted March 29, 2012 Posted March 29, 2012 DO NOT Bog pin holes. No matter how good you seal the bog it will still bleed through over time. A zap with the mig welder has the pinhole fixed permanently Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted March 29, 2012 Moderators Posted March 29, 2012 If the metal has pin holes then its probably thinner than paper and would the mig blow bigger holes? I'd chop out the sections and replace with steel. Quote
Scoota G Posted March 29, 2012 Posted March 29, 2012 If the metal has pin holes then its probably thinner than paper and would the mig blow bigger holes? I'd chop out the sections and replace with steel. Me likey very much! Quote
Scoota G Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 With these cars you need to show that rust who's boss! Quote
nizm0zed Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 How will that get finished off Scoota? Full weld? lead wipe? Because as we all know, bog doesnt handle petrol very well. Quote
Scoota G Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 How will that get finished off Scoota? Full weld? lead wipe? Because as we all know, bog doesnt handle petrol very well. Full weld finished in metal. I'll post up a pic when i finish it today. Good thing about this part is you don't see much of it. Quote
Scoota G Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 With a good join and a proper weld you should need next to no filler anyways. Just ask Lurch his work is superb! Quote
benny Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 dont discredit yourself scoot you've been doing some pretty awesome work!! Quote
Scoota G Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 dont discredit yourself scoot you've been doing some pretty awesome work!! Ta Benny. That's what we should do at the Christmas BBQ for trophys have a Zed Olympics. Rust repair. Dismantiling. Assembly. Brake Pad Changes. Quote
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