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Posted

I am trying to get to the bottom iof this and i cant get a clear answer

 

that is the hub bore on the front brakes for a 260z coope?

 

I am trying to buy bolt on spacers. I am led to believe the 66.1 centre bore is what i need.

 

I planned on buying "Hub centric" - i assume also this is the right thing to do?

 

many thanks,

Peter

Posted

That is for the rear.  The fronts are 73mm.  Don't beleive the BS that is in the catalogues at wheel and tyre stores !

 

Yes, make sure they are hubcentric, esp the fronts.  If not you will probably get steering wheel wobble. 

Posted

Many thanks,

 

lost the better part of a day try to wrok this out.

 

Hubcentric the go or just normal flat? was thinking hubcentric.

Posted

It's best if the adapter is hubcentric to the bore and also has a wheelcentric lip.  This way you don't just rely on the lugs to centre the wheel.  This gives strength too.

 

BenZed sells this stuff I beleive.

Posted

Just bought some spacers off Benzed, he didnt seem too fussed on hubcentric so i wont have the hubcentric adaptors there.

 

Dealing with Ben at least i know it will be right!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Pulling up an old thread...

(yea, im totally badass!)

 

So, lets agree that the centrebore of the front hubs is 73mm, because im at work and cant go home to measure it.

Would it be safe to machine it down to 66.1mm

 

5.JPG

Ignore its not a zed part, its a random pic i found, but the area that the arrow is pointing at, Can that be machined safely down to 66.1mm?

It'll only end up being 3.45mm machined inwards from its origional shape.

 

I am planning on using some hubcentric bolt on spacers that have a 66.1mm internal diameter.

Posted

Without actually looking at an S30 hub........ I'm going to have to say no.

You would be better off boring the inside diameter of the spacer, larger.

Rather than machining the outside diameter of the hub, smaller.

My 2cents

Posted

that was my first thought too. looks like im going to have to bust out the measuring stick when i get home.

I think that the location of the small amount i want to machine is right in the meat of where the bearing cup is presed in???

However, the 2 main reasons im looking at machining the hub are (and feel free to say they are stupid)

 

1. The spacer is a PITA to mount in the lathe. It will also render it worth nothing when it comes to resale at a later date.

2. the hub is a LOT EASIER to mount in a lathe. It will also enable ALL 66.1mm (4x114.3) centrebore wheels to fit straight on, instead of on the rear and not the front.

Most if not all modern nissan wheels are a 66.1mm centrebore. (yes, i realise the offsets are completely useless to us...)

 

 

Posted

Why not just get spacers that are the correct hub bore size?  Do you really want to take the risk of machining hubs or spacers?  A pair should cost around $100.

 

Also ensure that the spacer has a wheelcentric lip.  ;)

Posted

because i allready have the spacers, they are nissan 4 to 5 stud spacers.

Besides, most hubcentric spacers only come in a very limited number of sizes, custom made is very expensive.

 

anyways, i had a look at a dissasembled hub, there is enough wall thickness to accomodate it, and its only skimming a couple of mm off in an angled chamfer cut.

i probably should have just waited till i got home from work and looked, but i was being impatient.

 

 

 

 

/thread

nothing to see here, move along... ;D

Posted

once the measurements are made, its only a very small edge that is removed.

however, i can also see how an engineer may say its a bit of a questionable practice.

For anyone else doing it, consult with your engineer.

Posted

because i allready have the spacers, they are nissan 4 to 5 stud spacers.

Besides, most hubcentric spacers only come in a very limited number of sizes, custom made is very expensive.

 

Yeah, the 4 to 5 stud adapters are rare and more pricey.

 

Adelaide Tyre Power had this issue many years ago with my Z.  They ordered 66.1mm hub bore adapters front and rear for wheels they were going to fit to the car.  When they realised the 66.1 adapters didn't fit on the fronts due to the wrong data in their books, they simply added a 5mm wheel spacer between the hub and the adapter to make the adapter clear.  :(  I didn't realise they did this till much later.  Dodgey bumbs......

 

I think if you take a couple of mm off the hub you will be better off than I was with Adelaide Tyre Power. >:(

  • 4 years later...
Posted

once the measurements are made, its only a very small edge that is removed.however, i can also see how an engineer may say its a bit of a questionable practice.For anyone else doing it, consult with your engineer.

Hey nizm0zed,

 

Did you ever end up machining your hubs?

Posted

wow, that was a while ago, think ive done maybe 2-3kms since then (yea, 2 or 3kms, not hundreds lol)
If i remember correctly i machined a bit of meat off the hubs.
Pretty sure i was really dodgy and did it with an angle grinder while it was still mounted to the spindle too...

Posted

Sorry, don't mean to make with the funnies, but dude 

 

 

the 2 main reasons im looking at machining the hub are (and feel free to say they are stupid)

1. The spacer is a PITA to mount in the lathe. 
2. the hub is a LOT EASIER to mount in a lathe. 

 

 

 did it with an angle grinder while it was still mounted to the spindle too...

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