GAS - Custom RB26 Rear Sump

[garvice]

I decided that for my RB26 conversion I would do something different and not use a ZR200 or RD28 sump. Instead I decided that I would build my own sump.

I also wanted something that would tie the gearbox and engine together through the sump. This will hold about 6 liters.

 

I started by getting a mate to laser cut a flange out of 10mm mild steel.

 

Spent a day last weekend making up the general shape of the sump and welding up the joins.

 

Had a couple of hours this weekend, so finished sealing up the rear of the sump, modifying a section that was clashing on the crossmember, modifying the pickup point and decided tonight to weld it down in a few places.

 

Next weekend I will try and find some time to weld up the flange, get the gearbox flange tied in, build some baffles and then start thinking about pickups.

[RB30X]

Wow that looks very heavey duty, at least it will add some strength to the block.

 

 

[garvice]

Wow that looks very heavey duty, at least it will add some strength to the block.

I wanted something that replicated the strength of the cast aluminium one that comes on the gtrs. It isn't that stiff (only made out of 1.6mm sheet), but it should be quite a bit stiffer then the pressed 1.0mm ones.

 

Will also be much lighter then the gtr ones. Those things weigh a tonne, even without the diff in them.

 

Brad

[KatoKid]

Noice!

[garvice]

Welded the sump down to the flange last night. Pulled the sump off the spare block and it managed to stay very straight. Only area of concern was the front of the sump. Lifted about 1mm at the front. I wasn't able to bolt the front down because I didn't have a spare oil pump. Will probably have to shave a mm or two off. Next job will be baffles and gearbox flange.

[nat0_240_chevZ]

where abouts you puttingg the drain plug?

nat0

[MaygZ]

Looking VERY good.  Watch the sharp edges tho'.  The forward facing edges should have 12mm radius (it might be 10mm - I forget more as I get older).

 

Obviously this only matters if it extends below the X member.

 

Looks like very good work.

[garvice]

Nat,

Iam currently thinking the drain plug will either go in a rear corner or at the very back. It will be dependent on where the baffles sit.

 

Maygz,

 

What is the radius in reference to? Is that in an adr?

 

Thanks for the comments too.

 

I managed to weld around the complete flange one night last week. When I removed the sump only three front of the flange had distorted (I didn't have an oil pump to bolt it down to) by about 1mm. So after it is all done I will probably get about 60 thou shave off the flange and the front 6mm holes redrilled

[nizm0zed]

Looking VERY good.  Watch the sharp edges tho'.  The forward facing edges should have 12mm radius (it might be 10mm - I forget more as I get older).

 

Obviously this only matters if it extends below the X member.

 

Looks like very good work.

 

Is this one of those stupid ADR's? Like if you run someone over, you cant have a sharp edge on a protruding object, incase it hurts someone?

Coz if you run someone over and they are underneath where the sump sits, i think a small edge is the last of their worries

Kinda like the 'mesh in openings, scoops ect' rule.

Another stupid one from the beaurecrats...

 

Anyways, the sump looks awesome. handy hint for next time, if you cant bolt the whole thing down, you can use a heatsink to dissipate as much heat out of the work as possible, eg, a big lump of brass.

Otherwise, once you get a spare oil pump, you can bolt the sump down, then heat with an oxy, then pull it tight with the bolts.

It'll pull it back in shape pretty damn close to where you had it to start with.

fwiw, for a spare oil pump you dont care about, any RB series pump will bolt in place.

[Wayne G]

In the third generation of ADR there is a general safety rule, possibly ADR42, however due to the age of the vehicle you are building it does not apply.  You must comply with national code of practise which basically is good engineering practise and "it looks right" tests, which are both somewhat subjective to the assessor.

 

The bigger hassle is complying with the emission standard applicable to the engine meaning catalytic converter, charcoal canister, vapour control fuel tank, non vented fuel cap and closed loop oxygen sensor engine management.

 

Having said all that, this is the situation in Qld; I don't know what the rules are for the latte set  down south

[garvice]

Thanks for the input guys. Catalytic converter, charcoal cannister, vapour tank and non breathing cap are easy. Closed loop lambda is easy but an expense that does not offer much real benefit, will have to think about that one.

[RB30X]

You may have seen this already but hows the sump on this RB26 transplant

http://forums.nicoclub.com/2009-240z-build-t403961-40.html

 

[garvice]

Thanks RB30x, good to see some other ideas.

 

I managed to get out to the shed for a couple of hours today, so started on the baffles.

Still need to put some trapdoors in and cover as much of the segments as I can. The idea behind the baffles being 90degrees off is to try and get the oil to enter the centre pickup chamber no mater which way the car is being affected by g forces. May or may not work, but worth a try.

 

Should hold roughly 5.5 liters in the chambers.

 

Photos

 

[luvemfast]

I'm liking your baffle design.

Is there enough room to get it on with the pick-up? The actual boxed area looks quite small

[garvice]

Box is 120mm square. Opening would be slightly less then 100mm square. So should be enough with some creative swearing. Will be easy on an engine stand though. Brad

[garvice]

Started the trapdoors, this is what I came up with. Might just cut it out of 1.6mm sheet instead and not worry about the folded edges.

 

 

[nat0_240_chevZ]

are you using teplates or copying your shapes/detail etc.

can knock them out on punch laser if you have or feel the urge to manufacture your own product.....

good to see you taking it on, as most would even know where to start.

nat0

[garvice]

Thanks mate. No I haven't been copying as I have found that the first one isn't always the best (engine mounts took three goes to get where I wanted them).i no the dimensions if I need to repeat, though would rather start from scratch again too get something a bit different. Not really interested in selling them,but hey you never know.

[pauls]

looks pretty impressive.

[nat0_240_chevZ]

will the doors on your trap-door setup clash with thte pickup inside the surge-box?

ie not open enough to transer oil through during no acc/dec?

i understand they are to be opne or partially open most of the time but will they perform like your anticipating if the hit the oil pickup strainer??

just a thought,

Ive been meaning to get back on the computer and post her, but been way too busy.

keep us updated.

Nat0

[garvice]

I should have a good 40mm from the perimeter of the pick up to any one side/gate. As the gate opens the gate will also rise (roughly 10-15mm from bottom of sump). I don't think they will be terribly well sealed as they are just trying to stop the surge. Was also thinking about directing the oil back into the center of the box through one of the side oil returns but still not sure if this is a good idea.

 

The box will hold roughly a liter of oil when filled to the top. What I will do though is test it with some metho when it is all welded up.

Heard it is roughly the right consistency of hot oil and will put it on about a 30 degree and a 45 degree plane for a couple of seconds at a time (that will be interesting video to capture, ha).

 

If it doesn't work there is always plan B, dry sump (still tossing up the idea of building another sump once this is done).

[nat0_240_chevZ]

ha ha,

will need three hands

not running front diff??

[garvice]

Yeah it is going to get messy.

No front diff for me.