Oops - Brake bleed didn't go so smooth.

[ZD44TT]

Hi guys........was bleeding the brakes this afternoon with a friend and all was going well. The first lot of fluid that came out was pretty brown and old and I was feeling "great, cars braking will feel heaps better after this"......

 

We started on the rear passenger side. Anyhow all was going smoothly till i noticed on tighten the bleeder valve it didn't seem to be a tight this time around. Then my friend shouts out "hey pedals gone soft all of a sudden". I start hearing air hissing and thought the brake fluid container had run dry........

 

Anyhow ended up realising the bleeder valve threaded the brake cylinder screw hole?.....small metal circular pieces came out when i completly removed the bleeder valve.

 

I was sure I was loosening and tightening the bleeder valve carefully and not on an angel that would cause it to thread.

 

Also, does that look like it's been over tighten previously? as in the bleeder valve and inward line should be on the same plane but their not. So now their pointing towards each other?

 

Oh wells.......Z-parts in hornsby is my new friend :lol:

 

Is there anything difficult about replacing the drum brake cylinders I should know guys?

 

 

 

hmmm also saw that the fronts are solid discs too.......do they make vented slotted ones? Would love some ebc green stuff on it but now isn't the time :lol: *must resist*

 

 

Car looking more it's age.

 

 

Thanks heaps again.

William.

[ZD44TT]

update:

 

got to the cylinder but can't seem to be able to remove it.

 

Do I have to undo that horse shoe cir-clip somehow?

 

other side of drum brake.

 

 

[ZD44TT]

I found this diagram wooHooo.

 

But how do I get item 14-->16 off?

 

 

Not for my car but the part concerned is very similar.

[zr240]

hi

 

I havent done this before but thought I might be able to help.

 

It says in my z service manula remove anchor plate nuts from reverse side and just to drive the shim/ anchor block out.

 

I can see on th pic of your drum that there are some bolts/screws holding th anchor block on so if you can get to them and remove them then you should be able to get the anchor block off

 

Ash

[ZD44TT]

 

this one?........

 

thanks heaps for looking that up......hahah dam i gotta get that manual.

[ZD44TT]

Ok, I just ordered two new wheel cylinders. I'm banking on the otherside stuffing up as well. This costed $260 :cry: :cry: :wink: . God I'm use to golf cylinders costing $50/each and german OEM ones too :lol:

 

Ah well at least I can do abit of late braking into some late apex

round- abouts? kidding!.

 

God hope I can get that shim off tonite.

 

Do they every have meet up for sydney ppl?

[nat0_240_chevZ]

$260? farkmedrunkbloodyleeches

 

bloody ripped off, i got 2 @ 24$ each,

id be looking elsewhere. just some advice.

 

yea those horseshoe clips just use a screwdriver and small hammer, slide theop one off first then the one below the other way, have small indents to hold them together a lil better.

 

nat0

[ZD44TT]

$260? farkmedrunkbloodyleeches

 

bloody ripped off' date=' i got 2 @ 24$ each,

id be looking elsewhere. just some advice.

 

yea those horseshoe clips just use a screwdriver and small hammer, slide theop one off first then the one below the other way, have small indents to hold them together a lil better.

 

nat0[/quote']

 

faaaaaaaaaaaark are you serious? daaaaaaaaaaaam. He said it comes with the seals and stuff as well........and I called repco early in the day and they quoted me $140 each.......hahah GOT RIPPED!

 

Where do you guys get your service bits from?

 

oh wells.....need it urgently anyhow.

 

thanks mate.

[Bruce]

I got mine reconditioned at BGT brakes in Hawthorn.

From memory it was about $60 each.

There is some new ones on ebay at the moment as well.

cheers

Bruce

[ZD44TT]

I got mine reconditioned at BGT brakes in Hawthorn.

From memory it was about $60 each.

There is some new ones on ebay at the moment as well.

cheers

Bruce

 

I just want to cry I tell ya heheheh.

 

[ZD44TT]

tools Vs wheel cylinder

 

 

god that was easy once I got some light under there and saw what had to be done.

 

Thanks.

[nat0_240_chevZ]

Its a bloody datsun not a Ferarri!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

- :arrow: sorry this was meant to be posted imm after my other post above, laptop went dead.

 

i do the ring around and get prices always, i hate paying too much.

i call, sprints, dealer, motor traders and depends on what im after other place

 

nato

[ZD44TT]

Its a bloody datsun not a Ferarri!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

 

you don't have the black stalion badge and a V12 in the back of yours? tsk tsk.....

 

:lol:

[nat0_240_chevZ]

i meant about the price you got slogged, you would expect that much for ferarri wheel cyls but not a dastun/nissan.

 

nah nearly there, got 8 cyls and LSD, fun to drive.

no pun intended

 

nato

[ZD44TT]

yeh tell me about it..........

 

need them urgently anyhow so i had little choice.

 

expensive lesson......

 

as the saying goes.....don't fix what aint broken........hehehhe.

 

waking it on tonite and the brake feel better have improved.

[C.A.R.]

Interesting, I searched high & low for new rear wheel cylinders - couldn't find a thing :?

 

I even rang SWmotorsport - they couldn't get em either :shock:

[ZD44TT]

all done guys, thought i'd let you know. install went smoothly and quite easy.

 

Have to maybe pull it off again to get the handbrake adjustment lever lower though.

 

I think some nice front 4 pot is up next.......here we go again.

[RUSSJZ-ZED]

Bear in mind when substituting genuine for after market that differing bore sizes can affect brake performance /balance.

[PZG302]

all done guys' date=' thought i'd let you know. install went smoothly and quite easy.

 

Have to maybe pull it off again to get the handbrake adjustment lever lower though.

 

I think some nice front 4 pot is up next.......here we go again.[/quote']

 

Don't rush off and fit the first thing that comes to hand, do plenty of research on what will work and then research some more, talk to guys who have done mods and ask what they are running what the pedal feels like and any other questions you may have, or think you have. Ask also about the pads they use, what wear they are getting on both pads and rotors.

 

A good tip is to use the softest pad you can get away with, if you use a carbon or metal racing pad on the road they take too much heat to work effectively and you will sail off down the road with your foot through the firewall until they reach operating temperature.

 

The balance can be very easily upset and a nightmare to fix.

 

For example, I run 4 pot Willwood calipers with magna rotors on the front and Saab 2 pot calipers and rotors on the back, we used a 15/16" unbossted master cylinder and standard pads on the back with Hawk carbon metallic on the front.

 

The pedal was always a little low, but gave a great feel and the car pulled up everytime no problems. I changed to slotted rotors and mayhave lost a washer used to shim one of the calipers, about 1mm wide max, and then I had no pedal and chased the problem for a long time before getting a fix for it. It looks like the 15/16" master cylinder was marginal for the fluid volume needed for the system to work correctly. I changing the front rotors and cleaning the calipers it looks like the balance was upset and the master cylinder could no longer supply the volume needed in the calipers to push the pads onto the rotors, and I have to shave the pads down to fit in anyway. The fix was to run a 1" master cylinder, again unboosted. The pedal is back whre it should be, but takes a big push to get anything happening.