RUSSJZ-ZED

All sold, one buyer took the lot

All sold, 1 buyer took the lot.

From a 1981 280ZX I think (you check) should fit a 240/260Z discs calipers, brackets handbrake cable $300 starter,$60 Altenator $60 Iisted in my advert for 280ZX parts on gumtree https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/runaway-bay/auto-body-parts/nissan-datsun-280zx-parts-bargain-/1224719714 discs calipers, brackets handbrake cable $300 Pick up from Runaway Bay Queensland

280Zx parts, all going cheap check the listing on gumtree includes rack and pinion conversion $350 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/runaway-bay/auto-body-parts/nissan-datsun-280zx-parts-bargain-/1224719714 pick up from Runaway Bay (Gold Coast)Queensland

UK Z site www.zclub.net

$14,000 for a Z31 with a back seat?? :shock:

looks better unpainted natural black, even when plastic primed, will show cracked paint from impacts, I also put a small brace in the centre to the grill lower mount, used alloy, have to redo it with something stronger as gutter scuffs in the centre have deflected it down and popped a rivet, Probably don't need any strengthening on the lower edge, needs to flex somewhere. I thought mine had pushed back on the lower edge centre, but on closer inspection defecton is slight, been on for over a year. your pic' of the two cars together really highlights what a sad looking item they are "unmolested"The one that has been "vandalised" looks great. :twisted:

I think you will find that the 280ZX's rack sits behind the front crossmember, does not matter how good the fit is, if you set one up in a 240/260Z you will be in for a big surprise, when you turn the steering wheel to the left, your wheels will go right.Same problem will occur with any rack that mounts on the rear of the crossmember. What is a" push" by the steering arm on one side of the crossmember, becomes a"pull" on the opposite side.-Gearing is reversed. To make it work ,you will have to reverse the crossmember(Is there enough room with an "l" series? or get used to "left is right" :lol:

[quote, see letting the aluminium plate stick out below!I reckon it looks pretty cool) ?? I reinforced mine underneath the flat bottom part of radiator inlet, not on the road edge bottom, though it might be an idea to get a bit of strength along that bottom edge as well, noticed mine has bowed in in the centre(though this could be Sydney gutters constantly making contact there) Anyone thinking of installing a Zenon, they do need bracing, if you have seen how Jeremy Clarksons face wobbles when he is an screenless car at speed, that will give you an idea as to how an unreinforced Zenon looks.

Bear in mind when substituting genuine for after market that differing bore sizes can affect brake performance /balance.

It is a 1999-03 Subaru liberty, (don't know if it is the same as WRX)detail of what was done to it on in the technical forum,www.thezgarage.com my alias is splatt on that site.

The rack in vertex z's car looks like an earlier Subaru, take it (or a pic of it to a power steering shop and they should be able to ID it. Tie rod ends on mine, not familliar with those part numbers, number cast on tie rod end is 3E2TRW, I think that there are two racks used, one local (TRW)one Japanese, the Japanese tierod end is probably to long. The steering arms need a slight reeming for the TRW one. I started to look for a suitable rack cold, did not know what would fit, but definately needed power as the 1JZ brings the weight up to 1290KGs(good balane though-53%front, 47% rear, engine mounts well back, off the rails, more of this later) The rack was an import from Brooky parts plus , in Smithfield,(02 8788 8888 They had several hundred racks there and were good enough to let me take in a subframe and find one that was close. :oops: When I posted the pic's one thing got past me, So used to not seeing them I forgot about them, due to my mounts being on the rails, I don't have mount brackets on my subframe. There could be a clearance problem on the drivers side with the steering take off. I have another standard subframe that I can do a comparison with,problem at the moment is, due to space problem, the front of car is under a shelf in garage , can't open bonnet, can't move it as the rear end is out of it, and will be for a week, as the urethane moustache bushes I ordered from the States turned out to be for a Corvette, awaiting the correct ones, and not moveable till they arrive . 14/02/07 update after comparing subframes, probably have to take a small mouthfull out of drivers side upright if you are using original mounts.

Subaru liberty rack,1998-02 from memory,$180, shorten and rethread track arms $80, pair of N15 tie rod ends $40, Cut out in subframe a bit bigger than a 50 cent piece,10 minutes with a grinder on the drivers side of rack so that the original rack mount is re-useable, shorten intermediate shaft, set up to take subaru universal.. all up about $400, plus pump, I had one on my transplant. Steering intermediate shaft clears rail by about 12mm 2 turns lock to lock, with heaps of feel . You don't have to butcher the subframe.

How did you find Gas Research to deal with?I found that when they were in Melbourne, they were super efficient/helpfull, you could ring them up, tell them what you had, ask for opinions , and order on their advice, and the mix of rods jets, and venturi would be spot on within the tuning range.I have found that since they moved to Brisbane, any questions are just met with a sullen silence, zero thinking about combinations,just "we don't know, take it to one of our authorised fitters.'Two in Sydney I am aware of have tossed them over, can't get parts when they want them,too hard to run a business based on their service/supply. Crazy, you have run theirs before, once they are set up, you forget, never have to touch it again, they seem to want to commit commercial suicide, So dumb, It has got to be the best,most reliable gas delivery system going

might pay to move your airfilters out in front of the radiator, those big holes finally get a use, LPG functions better the colder the imput.they will pick up all the engine bay heat in that position, kills the power. As an experiment, If you can try them on a dyno inside and outside the engine bay, you will see a big difference between readings.