RUSSJZ-ZED

All sold, one buyer took the lot

All sold, 1 buyer took the lot.

From a 1981 280ZX I think (you check) should fit a 240/260Z discs calipers, brackets handbrake cable $300 starter,$60 Altenator $60 Iisted in my advert for 280ZX parts on gumtree https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/runaway-bay/auto-body-parts/nissan-datsun-280zx-parts-bargain-/1224719714 discs calipers, brackets handbrake cable $300 Pick up from Runaway Bay Queensland

280Zx parts, all going cheap check the listing on gumtree includes rack and pinion conversion $350 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/runaway-bay/auto-body-parts/nissan-datsun-280zx-parts-bargain-/1224719714 pick up from Runaway Bay (Gold Coast)Queensland

UK Z site www.zclub.net

$14,000 for a Z31 with a back seat?? :shock:

looks better unpainted natural black, even when plastic primed, will show cracked paint from impacts, I also put a small brace in the centre to the grill lower mount, used alloy, have to redo it with something stronger as gutter scuffs in the centre have deflected it down and popped a rivet, Probably don't need any strengthening on the lower edge, needs to flex somewhere. I thought mine had pushed back on the lower edge centre, but on closer inspection defecton is slight, been on for over a year. your pic' of the two cars together really highlights what a sad looking item they are "unmolested"The one that has been "vandalised" looks great. :twisted:

I think you will find that the 280ZX's rack sits behind the front crossmember, does not matter how good the fit is, if you set one up in a 240/260Z you will be in for a big surprise, when you turn the steering wheel to the left, your wheels will go right.Same problem will occur with any rack that mounts on the rear of the crossmember. What is a" push" by the steering arm on one side of the crossmember, becomes a"pull" on the opposite side.-Gearing is reversed. To make it work ,you will have to reverse the crossmember(Is there enough room with an "l" series? or get used to "left is right" :lol:

[quote, see letting the aluminium plate stick out below!I reckon it looks pretty cool) ?? I reinforced mine underneath the flat bottom part of radiator inlet, not on the road edge bottom, though it might be an idea to get a bit of strength along that bottom edge as well, noticed mine has bowed in in the centre(though this could be Sydney gutters constantly making contact there) Anyone thinking of installing a Zenon, they do need bracing, if you have seen how Jeremy Clarksons face wobbles when he is an screenless car at speed, that will give you an idea as to how an unreinforced Zenon looks.

Bear in mind when substituting genuine for after market that differing bore sizes can affect brake performance /balance.

It is a 1999-03 Subaru liberty, (don't know if it is the same as WRX)detail of what was done to it on in the technical forum,www.thezgarage.com my alias is splatt on that site.

The rack in vertex z's car looks like an earlier Subaru, take it (or a pic of it to a power steering shop and they should be able to ID it. Tie rod ends on mine, not familliar with those part numbers, number cast on tie rod end is 3E2TRW, I think that there are two racks used, one local (TRW)one Japanese, the Japanese tierod end is probably to long. The steering arms need a slight reeming for the TRW one. I started to look for a suitable rack cold, did not know what would fit, but definately needed power as the 1JZ brings the weight up to 1290KGs(good balane though-53%front, 47% rear, engine mounts well back, off the rails, more of this later) The rack was an import from Brooky parts plus , in Smithfield,(02 8788 8888 They had several hundred racks there and were good enough to let me take in a subframe and find one that was close. :oops: When I posted the pic's one thing got past me, So used to not seeing them I forgot about them, due to my mounts being on the rails, I don't have mount brackets on my subframe. There could be a clearance problem on the drivers side with the steering take off. I have another standard subframe that I can do a comparison with,problem at the moment is, due to space problem, the front of car is under a shelf in garage , can't open bonnet, can't move it as the rear end is out of it, and will be for a week, as the urethane moustache bushes I ordered from the States turned out to be for a Corvette, awaiting the correct ones, and not moveable till they arrive . 14/02/07 update after comparing subframes, probably have to take a small mouthfull out of drivers side upright if you are using original mounts.

Subaru liberty rack,1998-02 from memory,$180, shorten and rethread track arms $80, pair of N15 tie rod ends $40, Cut out in subframe a bit bigger than a 50 cent piece,10 minutes with a grinder on the drivers side of rack so that the original rack mount is re-useable, shorten intermediate shaft, set up to take subaru universal.. all up about $400, plus pump, I had one on my transplant. Steering intermediate shaft clears rail by about 12mm 2 turns lock to lock, with heaps of feel . You don't have to butcher the subframe.

How did you find Gas Research to deal with?I found that when they were in Melbourne, they were super efficient/helpfull, you could ring them up, tell them what you had, ask for opinions , and order on their advice, and the mix of rods jets, and venturi would be spot on within the tuning range.I have found that since they moved to Brisbane, any questions are just met with a sullen silence, zero thinking about combinations,just "we don't know, take it to one of our authorised fitters.'Two in Sydney I am aware of have tossed them over, can't get parts when they want them,too hard to run a business based on their service/supply. Crazy, you have run theirs before, once they are set up, you forget, never have to touch it again, they seem to want to commit commercial suicide, So dumb, It has got to be the best,most reliable gas delivery system going

might pay to move your airfilters out in front of the radiator, those big holes finally get a use, LPG functions better the colder the imput.they will pick up all the engine bay heat in that position, kills the power. As an experiment, If you can try them on a dyno inside and outside the engine bay, you will see a big difference between readings.

Mr2 seats were from Justjap Sydney,$380 a pair from memory(about 18 months ago) the lumber and adjustable wings make them super comfortable and really hang on to you on corners- much better than the Dat padded milk crates.The bottom rake adjustment also a big improvement. The drivers side not to hard to put in,I packed the back mounting points with a 25x40 quad tube, bolted it to original holes, then bolted Toyota rails to this. Front I used two pieces of 5mm by about 70mmx100mm plate to pick up original points bottom and Toyota rails top. Passenger side is a bit harder due to bulge in floor for exhaust(of no use to me as the 1JZ pipe goes down the other side.(crossover behind the box)Because of this, seat sits about an inch higher than the drivers(never know if you were not told) bar across rear is 40x40 tube- slightly higher plates for the frontmounts. The pic shows seats as far back as they will go(I have got long legs)thats the max recline at this point due to seats getting on to the rear wheel arch. Any more recline can only be achieved by taking the seat forward, no drama on passengers side,heaps of leg room and seat travel. I might have to look at a bigger carb, Gas Research will re-do the venturi(about $150)but I think 550 is as big as they go.I have used two of their systems before, both single 450s on Rover V8s (They went well ,but never again with cars from U©K the 1j is perfectly set up for a single,nearly a "touch nothing" bolt up.Throttle body off, Gas Research on(see what I mean in pic) double would mean a twin plenum(Rover Vitesse type) set up, then the intercooler pipes would be too hard.probably would not fit anyway. This is just a (scary)road car cruiser,over 300hp at the engine now,does not worry me if it is slowed down a bit.The car will never get near a track(the last time I was on one was in 1968) What are the actual dimensions of your tank?Any pictures ,ground clearance Etc?

Where is your tank going?I'm toying with a single 460,nearly straight bolt on in place of throttlebody, undecided as to a too small doughnut tank (don't know why they didn't make these in multiple sizes) or cutting out the tyrewell and getting two 285x900's under.(82 useable)- Would have to find somewhere else to put the spare with doughnut anyway. Any other ideas?

The draft of the Oz wide regulations is on the DOTARS site, Don't panic about the skunk test, most Jap engines were engineered to pass heavier regs than we have,and you are not going to put a sad one in anyway.....hopefully.

The ones I have had to test have been post 1976, never done an earlier one before, I've probably got confused because of this. I always thought it was anything post 1972, (start of compliance plates) On reflection,the heavy emission rules did start about 1975. On mine that had to be engineered, the rule was, if it has a compliace plate(72+),regardless of year, then every ADR listed by the numbers has to be complied with. emission would not have been listed on plate till later.I would have needed the test on mine because mine came later I just assumed it was all of them with a plate. :oops:

Just noticed Apsilons post on not needing emission test in NSW, There have been a lot of engineers removed/no longer on register in NSW in last year or two, a lot for bending the rules. A lot of cars passed by them failed when pulled in for retests. Do it right the first time. I think you will find that in any engine swap that is just dumping in the same type engine no test needed,just a blue slip to update the engine number, but in a change of type you will need a printout on emissions to be included with the engineers report, this rule was in a couple of years ago( I took my last car California Tr8 import to the RTA in Mascot/Botany,It passed there, had had failed the day before in a private run test, All I changed was adding couple of litres of straight ethanol to the tank. Private testers cost, RTA is free,you don't have to be frightened of them, they are friendly people. Easy on the ethanol, it smells a bit. If you do a shit head hoon act on them, you get to come back- lots of times, there was one there when I put mine through, I could not get a bet on that this guy was going to fail the "atitude"test. I don't know how many times he's been back , still hasn't worked it out. Getting uglier every time to, I hear. In NSW car must comply with emissions of engine type /year fitted, not the car it goes into( I believe the reverse is the rule in ACT,correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems in Queensland you can do what you like) Must have factory ECU, and approved cat fitted. Also must pass noise test. Got to have other stuff, like brakes as well. Under the new standardised rules,not yet Oz wide, a 2.5 or 3 litre even turboed ,should not create problems in a car that was originally 2.6L. The engineer I use is one of the few that can certify under the new rules,car can then be sold without problems in any state.And also no problems in NSW.

A 2j will fit but it's 14.5 mm higher than a 1J,can have be a tight fit under bonnet.You can probably get a bit lower than mine, but then power steer could be a problem fitting. very tight around the twin turbo's as well, but unless you are planning on non road use,a 2JZ is huge overkill .The 1j engine in standard form has more power and torque than an RB26,later design,much stronger,And you don't have to shag around getting rid if the 4wd. It is only now that the Yanks have started to realise how good this series is. Japanese have been on it for years,The only reason it's not to the fore is it has always been put into heavy (and ugly cars) Also Brock/Richards winning Bathurst really helped the RB26 along here. I went for the later Vvt single turbo, more clearance in turbo area ( more power than Soarer/Mk3 Supra 1J engine, also max torque378Nms is at 2400RPM the 2jz is 430Nms at 3600rpm all these engines have the max Jap horsepower rating 0f 206Kws, I suspect the Supra for one has at least another 100Kw. I an actually stepping down the diffs from tyre shredding grunt 3.7/1 to 3.37/1, better cruiser, and still spins wheels in 3rd when I'm not trying.Even with this diff, very scary in the wet. wet = any dampness. As pointed out above, my engine mounts are off the rails about 6 inches behind the strut towers, which will be helping the balance 53%front /47%rear.It is a heavy engine ,1290Kg all up,10 litres fuel,no driver,aircon not fitted yet. There is no problem with steering clearance even with standard steering rack (turning it could be a problem,with that weight which is why I went power steer).Handling with power is magic. The engine and gearbox mounts have to fabricated,no drama there, update your tacho/speedo to electronic(I have just put up a post on how to set these up on www.zgarage.com )-could be an"au" after that.Using my other alias Splatt. Due to engineering in NSW not allowing aftermarket engine management(if you can alter the fuel/air, you can alter the emisions,not allowed-later perhaps?..)I am running a 4 speed auto, I have a R154 manual set up ready to go, Toyota runs engine and transmission through the same ECU -different one for manual. Auto was originallt temporary, I didn't think it would happen, but I really like the auto, it will be staying till it breaks. The only hard part of the swap is the wire up, If it wasn't for a genius called Sideshow(Jim) I would probably still be scratching my head.-Reasonable priced and he will travel- if you pay. TT 1Js are easierto wire. He had done 30 plus 1Js, but not a Vvt, He figured there would be more of them in the future so mine was a test.The Vvt runs a completely different ECU to any other 1J/2J also tranny big different. WARNING! whatever you buy,Toyota/Nissan ,GET A HALFCUT, If you buy just an engine/trans , it will cost a fortune for all the bits you are going to need, and won't get with an engine. Always get the map/airflow, harness and ECU particually on a VVt, completely different to any other 1J/2J that Toyota made. Just buying an engine is for when you are allready set up and need another one. You will need a rear sump to clear crossmember, 1J/2J/ came with 3 types(all interchangeable)front,middle and rear I have not seen a middle one, but rear clears easy, If you are "unlucky"enough to get a front sump(Chaser)these are in big demand for Cressida conversions ,$300 on toymods and they will kill for one, the rear type that you need are common,$70-$100 At the moment I'm planning on removing $2000 from Mr Howard to install a Gas Research system, I've used their stuff twice before and love it, engine perfectly set up for their carb. My typing finger(singular) has frozen up, anything you want to know, ask. If close to Sydney drop in.

Hi NZeder, PM sent.

That's the point, why bother with a back seat if it is useless.I've owned several that had them, just a bad compromise between a sports car and a people mover, and once you try to move a couple of people , you realise it's a padded parcel shelf. Another personal opinion, everybody should own at least one ragtop , preferably English, they are the best leakers, first time it rains the learning curve begins. Forget the skin cancer, start with a good soaking!Ahhh.. the smell of rotting carpet,sparks from under the dash... Also, a real roof is a bloody good thing to have when you are going down the road at 100Ks an hour upside-down. Notice how many mx5s and BMW rag tops have rollbars that are lower than the head they are behind?The road will grind a few inches of bone off before they even start to work..smart.

Real sports cars don't have back seats! Apart from being useless, uglies up the looks/line as well. you can still find 2 seater 280 and early 300s in NZ,( most will have gone to the tip by now)You don't need compliancing, and there is a monthly roll on roll off car carrier service, I bought in a car from there a couple of years ago, freight was only $1300, duty and GST bugger all on Kiwi prices. Same from the states-You dont have to look far here to find heaps of unwanted 4 seater for your conversion parts.

Check/ substitute 1) fuel regulator (vaccuum hose?-unlikely-if not connected/perished, probably have to much pressure) 2)fuel pump 3)try another filter 4)Fuel lines-did a line get pinched when it was jacked?