RUSSJZ-ZED

The headlight surounds were interesting, but seriously why buy bits? I picked up a Car, rolling, near complete (no engine, box) bare metalled, 99% rust free,new carpets and never fitted recovered dash for $350 off ebay, over 2000 hits on item- so much for "rare","collectable", admittedly,it was a vatican version with stowage for children in the back,still had heaps of parts, I kept the front seats, dash,front guards,bumper, suspension and diff,the rest went back on ebay as bits, (over $1000 worth) Henry Ford summed it up perfectly when he said"I will give everybody a free car, providing they buy their parts from me" He never followed it through,but he knew how the parts market worked. Anyone know anything about the bronze 260Z on ebay at the moment? dead motor, looks straight?

(Range)Rover have had hardened valve seats etc since 1977(introduction of the SD1) no problem with unleaded, This engine is at it's best on straight gas,never ever go dual fuel.I had a TR8 with a gas research carb set up(10.5/1comp+split timed cam) current owner has put 150000Ks on it , still has 130lb compression on all 8 cylinders.

Lead was added to fuel as an anti Knocking agent, ethanol does the same job as lead more effectively,and does not poison the environment , why not try an ethanol blend, or just dump a litre of METHELATED spirits from the supermarket in,it you check the label it is actually 98%Ethanol these days. Another good thing about supermarket Meth/Ethanol, An engineering signatory actually advised that I run a 20% ethanol mix in a car that had to pass an emission test, Keeps the emissions down when you need to as well. It passed.

The only thing missing is a ZG wing/turn-up on the hatch.

That's the same car that features in (bodywork) installing ZG flares- 10 out of 10.

I had a panelbeater do the rears for $300,(in his spare time)If you are in Sydney he can do over a weekend, Now he has done one thinks about $400 would be more realistic. The front took me about an hour with an angle grinder.Put the flares on, mark outside with whiteboard marker, cut 25mm below line.easy

He can leave the battery tray where it is, but probably only if he intended running without brakes. It's all a bit silly anyway. :roll:

You are right, Alighnment, plus a decent hatch rubber seal,and exhaust pipe extended as far as possible,no exhaust skunk even with the windows right down.I suspect that the pipe being clear of the rear vaccuum is the easiest fix.Seal will keep out what's still lurking about.

Another picture thats worth 1000 words,PCD number is the diameter of the circle in mm. PCD is pitch circle diameter, a PCD of 114.3(x4) is standard 240/260/280Z , 114.3 circle x 4 bolt holes. 114.3(x5) is same size circle, but with 5 bolt holes(this is PCD of Z32s, late Skylines, most Big Toyotas.)

backspace of 115mm fits on front, with standard springs, gets tight after that, dont forget that the wheels have to turn, 17x8s with 235x45 were picking up the guard on lock, easy curable with angle grinder(this is assuming you are not on the concours team) Diagrams might help understand offset and backspace.

Fixing a Zenon urethane/poly/plastic front dam, People on hybridZ have experienced problems with these ,mainly the urethane/poly/plastic distorts at high speed. I bought one of Warren at Z spares a while back ,mainly because I think it looks the pick of aftermarket dams,blends in with the line of the guards,and the urethane would last longer on Sydney roads/lanes etc. Fibreglass would die in a day. :idea: Knowing about the flexing problem before I started I decided to mount it so it would have the strength to survive gutters, but also not wobble about at speed, This is what I did. The old front corner panels that are not supposed to be used, I used, got the angle grinder to them and cut them off about an inch below the securing bolt holes, across the top of the park/indicater light holes. I mounted the Zenon with the remaining strip of the corner panel behind it ,makes it more secure than just bolts and washers.better clamping(I didn't get pic's of this ,sorry) Across the center flat piece, I cut a piece of 75mm x 2mm aluminium, curved the ends so it fitted snug on the underside of the flat center poly,(pic's) roughed it up with the grinder. in the center I attached a "tag" that bolts to the center grill mount, buttered up the aluminium with silicone(lots) , pushed it into place, with pieces of 3x1 underneath, long piece on the top, used clamps, 3 or 4 of them(as many as you can fit) to squeeze the alluminium/silicone onto the polyurethane, left it for the weekend(best left as long as possible) removed clamps and 3X1, Result is ,strong as, does not flex, has enough "give" on the bottom lip to grind away, and survive the dips, speedbumps,and gutters of Sydney .town.

No more guards peeking out under flares :twisted:

I realise that there are cosmetic differences, but do they swap into a 260Z 2 seater?(without mods)

a thin bead of plumbers neutral cure silicone, ,will hold it real tight, but removable if you need to repaint. Don't use glue! You will never get them off undamaged.

If you are buying new superlites, they can be ordered from the factory with an offset that will keep your track legal. I'm on 5 stud so wheels easier to find second hand from Nissans,Toyota, Ford, I scored a set of cheap 16X7 Ford mags with the right offset from ebay for those times I need to be Legal.

You can put 17,18,19s on, so long as you dont exceed the rolling diameter limit(plus width, plus track limits.) NSW RTA has an information sheet ,Vehicle Standards Information (number 9) tells you all you need to know to be legal, It's all ADR based so Vic Roads should have something similar) NSW motor registries have them, I think it is also up on their website.

We also have the RTA random roadside checks,set up booze bus like, pull cars in and check them for EVERYTHING!, Also , the EPA inspectors , they can get you for emissions, last year they parked outside a Toyota club meet, and pulled people on their way out , anyone with a non standard engine obviously did not have factory exhaust systems. They can also pull you for noise.

This is from the NSW RTA "Guidelines for alternative wheels and tyres" It does not give the number of the ADR but states "the outside diameter of the wheel and tyre combination must be no more than 15mm over the largest diameter wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle" Tyre placard on 1976 Z specifies 195X70 series on 5.5X14 rims. The miatanet tyre size calculator gives a diameter of 628.6mm for this tyre, plus 15mm , Max diameter/height is 643.6mm For comparisons of other sizes you can use, check the calculator www.miata.net/garage/tyrecalc.html When buying aftermarket wheels dont forget the maximum you are allowed to increase track .MAX 25mm!

NSW rules,Does not really matter what you tell them, all the information from when the compliance for the model was approved is on RTA computer,wheel size,,weight, track,engine size/type, the lot.Unless you are carrying an engineers certificate that varies what they have,( the original MUST be carried at all times- offence not to carry it) you get a defect , If they really don't like you, you also get to walk home. NSW police cars are now being equiped with direct access to RTA computer, GOTCHA! in 5 seconds.It also will give them a list of your (legal) mods. hope you have your eng/cert with you. Even when their basic information is wrong, thats what they go by. I had aZ32 2 seat, which their computer said weighed (from memory)1550Kgs, on a weighbridge it was 1400.Their information was for the only model originally complied, 4 seater(still is) To get it varied, you need an engineers letter accompanied by a weighbridge certificate,This actually gets the car into a lower cost registration due to reduced weight.The fact that one car proves their info wrong, does not update the computer, anyone that comes along later has to start at the beginning with a weighbridge certificate. Wasting your time trying to fudge it. Have legal spares to swap in to clear defects,pay the fine, try again.

First post. Mags fitted to 1976 Z were 5.5X14, in NSW max wheel widening over standard size is 1.5 inches, which means 7 inch is widest (legal) wheel. I'm fairly sure this is also an ADR,if it is, that's max in all states.