. Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 Well I am 110 KG but I am also 6 foot 4 inches so even if I went on a dramatic diet I only stand to loose 10 Kg. I am aiming to shed about 50Kg from my 240z. I'm aiming to have it down to 1000KG with a cage and half a tank of fuel. I just bought a VL starter. It weighs 3.4 Kg the original zed item weighs 5.8Kg so there is another 2.4 KG of my 50 KG target. Thanks for the tip Lurch. Now I'm just wondering if there are more tips like that. What mechanical items can be replaced with more modern alternatives? Also what is the wieght diference with an alloy radiator? Anybody weighed them? Quote
nizm0zed Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 i accept the fact that im a fat bastard. so i am going to add luxury items and just make more power to move the extra weight if only it was that easy.... Quote
garvice Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 The first thing I thought is whether it's worth the compromise of so little weight loss in regards to the reduced structural integrity of that section of the car Just a quick one on the holes in the sheet metal. The guy on Hybridz actually flared each hole, which means that he increased the stiffness of the standard sheet metal whilst still taking away weight. Quote
xa1973 Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 Yep Standard geometric fabrication principles at work....simple but effective Quote
C.A.R. Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 Well I am 110 KG but I am also 6 foot 4 inches so even if I went on a dramatic diet I only stand to loose 10 Kg. ! I'm 6'4 as well, but I'm only 80kg! Quote
V8Datto Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 Well I am 110 KG but I am also 6 foot 4 inches so even if I went on a dramatic diet I only stand to loose 10 Kg. ! I'm 6'4 as well, but I'm only 80kg! 6'3 and 75kg. Does that mean I win? whoo... $200/kg dam! There's lot's of places to save weight, aftermarket seats would be an option too Quote
. Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 I was 6'3 at 13 and 85 KG. I was too thin. For someone else 85KG might be ok but for me my ideal weight is 100KG. Does any one know the weight of a standard seat? Quote
RBZ 260 Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 get rid of the gauges. they weigh a bit. the ones u need get the lightest stuff i guess autometer as they got nothing in them. if urs is the series 2 get rid of the toolboxes behind the front seats. prob save u 1/2 kg other than than all the stuff under the dash like the heater box. engine wise replace the complex linkages for throtle with cable. we not talkin kg but bit here and there should get it lower overall. i think the window winder mechenism weigh a fair bit on the Z.probably fabricate bits out of alloy to replace it ie arms and sliders. wiper motor mechanism. those motors weght a bit too. see if u can fit lighter ones from more modern car or replace it and use single arm style with manual switch motor bit like what they use on boats and old land rovers quite small motors. windscreen rubbers weigh a bit. possibly urethane them in. well thats what ill be looking at getting the Z on diet. Quote
tbscobraZ Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Off topic much, anyway I'm sure I've seen under 900 wouldn't be impossible just crazy amounts of carbon fibre, no wait carbon fibre everything soo outhere. Quote
garvice Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Got my standard seats in the hallway, but no scales. I don't think they are very heavy though, I would be guessing ~15kg. (I better go quantify that) Quote
garvice Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Bit hard to quantify, but definitely less than half of my 40kg jack. I would say 10-15kg is in the ball park. I guess that means if your going to put a race seat in (<5kg with rails) you can spend $1-1.5k (@$200/kg) on a seat. More then double that if you remove both seats. Quote
nizm0zed Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 I guess that means if your going to put a race seat in (<5kg with rails) you can spend $1-1.5k (@$200/kg) on a seat. More then double that if you remove both seats. I will attempt to explain this to the missus, but somehow i dont think she will see the logic of it Quote
V8Datto Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 I took some quick weights with bathroom scales so don't hold these to gospel. 260z underdash heater fan unit 5kg 260z underdash heater radiator 5kg 240z Bare front guard (with nose, no headlight etc) 7kg 240z bare door (no mirror, glass, winder, chrome rail, etc. nothing but the steal) 12kg 260z seat (not %100 on seat type) 14kg 260z dash (no fan or heater radiator but everything else) 15kg 240z front brakes (2x disc & 2x calipers with pads) 19kg Wilwood front brakes (2x 300mm disc & 2x wilwood calipers with pads) 16kg Quote
garvice Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 260z seat (not %100 on seat type) 14kg Wow, I was pretty spot on. Quote
V8Datto Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 few more 240z front bumper 4kg 240z dash (empty , not even the gluve box lid) 6kg 240z Fiber glass bonnet 5kg 260z steel bonnet 15kg Quote
garvice Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 240z dash (empty , not even the gluve box lid) 6kg Is that with foam and vinyl on the dash? My 260z dash felt like it weighed a whole lot more then that. Quote
Zeddophile Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Ahh yes off to Mc Donalds for the Pounder. aka double double quarter pounder. mmmmm Yay, squeeze it and watch the oil run out. Only thing more fun than eating it is watching the faces of the people eating with you! Bit hard to quantify, but definitely less than half of my 40kg jack. I would say 10-15kg is in the ball park. I guess that means if your going to put a race seat in (<5kg with rails) you can spend $1-1.5k (@$200/kg) on a seat. More then double that if you remove both seats. On my sparco seat spec sheet, the lightest seat they offer is 5.5kg for the shell, and thats carbon fibre (about $2000-2500 for a seat, plus rails/side mounts or whatever). Fibreglass shells are generally around 8.5-9 kg, at approx $1100 per seat (before mounts). Not a huge saving with the standard seats only weighing 14kg..... Unlike an Alfetta seat, which you just about need a crane to lift! However, the gain in lateral support is definitely worth it. Quote
V8Datto Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Is that with foam and vinyl on the dash? My 260z dash felt like it weighed a whole lot more then that. It a re-skined dash There's a pic in my gallery, Quote
aarc240 Posted June 28, 2009 Posted June 28, 2009 Shorten / replace all bolts throughout the car so just 1 to 2 threads penetrate through the nut. Don't use bolts with long pilot noses. Consider small head bolts and thin washers anywhere not load bearing. That's good for another 2.2kg (approximate). Switch to a dual master cylinder and aluminium pedal box, remove the power booster. About 1 kg Leave the bonnet / hood torsion bars out for another 0.5kg. If you are using a GRP bonnet / hood, use four hood pins and leave the hinges out for another 1 kg. GRP dash with sheet aluminium frame and stock instruments will save 7 kg, aluminium heater / demister another 5 kg. If you need a demister (like I did) replace the stock vent hoses with convoluted paper/aluminium material like is used for exhaust to air cleaner ducting plus trim the demister outlets to the bare minimum, save another 0.5 kg. Delete the window winders completely and use a leather strap from the bottom of the glass up and over the inside of the door. A button head screw in the door and a suitable line of holes in the leather strap to hold the windows at various desired heights and you've just saved yourself another 5 kg. Don't be tempted by GRP door shells, even with a cage, as a heavy side impact will leave you regretting it (if you live through it!). Get the inner shell acid dipped to thin it and then use the thinnest repro skin you can find. It will still save 4 kg for both sides without seriously compromising safety. Quote
stevo_gj Posted June 28, 2009 Posted June 28, 2009 Shorten / replace all bolts throughout the car so just 1 to 2 threads penetrate through the nut. Don't use bolts with long pilot noses. Consider small head bolts and thin washers anywhere not load bearing. That's good for another 2.2kg (approximate). Switch to a dual master cylinder and aluminium pedal box, remove the power booster. About 1 kg Leave the bonnet / hood torsion bars out for another 0.5kg. If you are using a GRP bonnet / hood, use four hood pins and leave the hinges out for another 1 kg. GRP dash with sheet aluminium frame and stock instruments will save 7 kg, aluminium heater / demister another 5 kg. If you need a demister (like I did) replace the stock vent hoses with convoluted paper/aluminium material like is used for exhaust to air cleaner ducting plus trim the demister outlets to the bare minimum, save another 0.5 kg. Delete the window winders completely and use a leather strap from the bottom of the glass up and over the inside of the door. A button head screw in the door and a suitable line of holes in the leather strap to hold the windows at various desired heights and you've just saved yourself another 5 kg. Don't be tempted by GRP door shells, even with a cage, as a heavy side impact will leave you regretting it (if you live through it!). Get the inner shell acid dipped to thin it and then use the thinnest repro skin you can find. It will still save 4 kg for both sides without seriously compromising safety. Crikey some of that seems pretty extreme!! You're a dedicated man Gotta admit the bolts thing seems risky :-\ Quote
Zeddophile Posted June 28, 2009 Posted June 28, 2009 Crikey some of that seems pretty extreme!! You're a dedicated man Gotta admit the bolts thing seems risky :-\ Why risky, Stevo? He's talking about trimming the excess thread off the end of the bolt, the amount of thread contact area remains the same. If it comes loose, doesn't matter if there are 10 threads or 2 threads it has to unscrew over - its still loose! And the small headed bolts I imagine go places like gauge cluster brackets etc - things that aren't subject to big loadings. Quote
stevo_gj Posted June 28, 2009 Posted June 28, 2009 Oh I see! I thought he was talking about only having two or three actual threads contacting with the thread on the nut. Now it seems obvious that he meant the extra bit that was protruding out the end. Quote
. Posted June 29, 2009 Posted June 29, 2009 Hmmmm food for thought alright. I have a lot of work to do. I think I will create a plan to complete for this time next year. I will definatly add the dash and side windows to the plan. I just competed in Wheels on Wide Bay over the weekend. The car was solid but not blistering. I think the weight reduction is very necessary. Also had my car on the dyno for the first time. As it was being set up someone asked what I thought it might be. I said I'd be happy with 130 RWHP. It ended up being 129.5.... what a guess. I am happy with that considering it is only a mild engine with a standard ECU. Hopefully I will add a few more ponies by the same event next year. Quote
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