aarc240

Help! I'm rebuilding our '72 240z navigation / trials car and want to replicate a specific rally car from that era. A 240z was entered in the '73 Rallye de Portugal by Entreposto SA with sponsorship by A Tabaqueira. Apparently thus car #18 was supplied to Entreposto by Nissan. I have worked out most of the advertising stickers on the car except: 1. on top of the front fenders there is either one large or possibly two small stickers 2. behind the door there is a small sticker 3. on the rear fender there is a small sticker just ahead of the rear corner 4. rear hatch must have something but no image has yet been found Does anyone have any images of this white rally car from this event?

Anyone know of a 22 tooth (or maybe even 23 tooth) speedo drive gear? If so, what colour is it and what model did it come from, if known? I'm going to need one of these or an in-cable adaptor box to run the 4.6875 diff in our 240Z soon . oops, should've said this is for a 71B box.

1 'side indicators' are late 240z onwards - nominally 260z but actually fitted from 1/7/72 to meet the ADR required visibility angles. 2 all Australian delivered cars have a clear main lens on the front park / indicator lamp assembly, anything from 1/1/72 must have the amber inner insert over the indicator, prior to that may or may not. 3 either white or amber indicator is correct for a 1971 delivered - they delivered both! Don't get caught with the amber main lens as used on American market cars (and I believe JDM) unless you have headlamp conversions in place which put the park lamp in the headlight. Amber park lamps are illegal throughout Oz although you can get away claiming they are clearance lights provided you have the park lamps elsewhere (like in the headlamps).

Standard ECU, eh? It's an L28 with factory injection? In that case, some easy mods will lift the power considerably. Change the injectors to VL turbo Commodore, fit right in and good for 250cc vs 205cc. Replace the throttle body with one from a VN/VP Commodore, this requires an adaptor but any reasonable machine shop can do that as it's pretty basic. Use the VN/VP throttle position sensor (in fact use as much GM sensor stuff as you can, less headaches getting things calibrated). Toss the AFM, you want to be using MAP with a replacement ECU anyway, something decent (and digital), I've used Megasquirt with good results. Install a wideband EGO sensor and btw I couldn't find enough difference in stock exhaust manifold vs extractors on a motor this mild to bother paying for extractors. Duct from the throttle body to an enclosed type air cleaner, R31 Skyline is pretty easy to adapt, then set up its inlet to pull air from ahead of the radiator (over top of the radiator support panel works well). If you have one, install an 'A' cam from an early 240Z. It takes some work but about 160RWHP without being a cantankerous bitch to drive makes it all worth while, particularly in a light 240Z. A lightening trick I've seen is to decide on what bits will rarely if ever have to be taken out / separated etc and use aluminium pop rivets to hold them together! The same team was using aluminium bolts / screws etc for securing front fenders on, headlights in, in fact anything they thought they could get away with! Never gone that far myself but it's worth considering.

Shorten / replace all bolts throughout the car so just 1 to 2 threads penetrate through the nut. Don't use bolts with long pilot noses. Consider small head bolts and thin washers anywhere not load bearing. That's good for another 2.2kg (approximate). Switch to a dual master cylinder and aluminium pedal box, remove the power booster. About 1 kg Leave the bonnet / hood torsion bars out for another 0.5kg. If you are using a GRP bonnet / hood, use four hood pins and leave the hinges out for another 1 kg. GRP dash with sheet aluminium frame and stock instruments will save 7 kg, aluminium heater / demister another 5 kg. If you need a demister (like I did) replace the stock vent hoses with convoluted paper/aluminium material like is used for exhaust to air cleaner ducting plus trim the demister outlets to the bare minimum, save another 0.5 kg. Delete the window winders completely and use a leather strap from the bottom of the glass up and over the inside of the door. A button head screw in the door and a suitable line of holes in the leather strap to hold the windows at various desired heights and you've just saved yourself another 5 kg. Don't be tempted by GRP door shells, even with a cage, as a heavy side impact will leave you regretting it (if you live through it!). Get the inner shell acid dipped to thin it and then use the thinnest repro skin you can find. It will still save 4 kg for both sides without seriously compromising safety.