Rear toe in????

[RB30X]

I was wondering how I go about adjusting rear toe in. My Zed has substantial toe in on the rear and I can see why. Nothing looks bent under it but it does have new rubbers etc in the control arms and I'm wondering if something has been put in wrong. Both wheels are the same.

Any advice on what to check?

[Scoota G]

A fellow up here sell a easy fit kit for the S30 that will give you an adjustment either way of 2 degrees. About $220.

[RB30X]

Up here? In Ballarat? 

 

Tell me more.

[Scoota G]

Yea up here... that's all the intel i have,  Pedders in Latrobe st are the guys to talk to.

[RB30X]

I meant I'm in nth QLD. Anyway what does this kit consist of. I'm probably talking more than two degrees though, serious pigeon toe action.

 

 

 

Check out the welds (or lack there of) on the coil over sleeves.

 

 

[C.A.R.]

I got mine off Rob: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,1861.0.html

More $, but they are a quality product

[RB30X]

Is there such thing as a bush on the control arms that needs to be fitted correctly or it would cause this problem though. I'd like to know what the current issue is first before buying parts that may not even correct it. For all I know the PO may have already fitted something like you're recommending and done it all wrong, hence the severe toe in.

[C.A.R.]

Pull the rear bolts out Tim & have a look!

[RB30X]

Rear bolts of the control arms?

[C.A.R.]

Yes.The inner ones.

[Whittie]

I used those derlin bushes bout found that after about 7 or 8 track days they had worn out due to rubbing and binding. The bushes are straight holes and are really only designed for camber. Putting the rear control arm on an angle other than directly in line with the two bushes by adjusting one bush more or less further outwards than the other bush forces the control arm to swing inside a tube on an angle different to it and wears out the inside and outside edges as the suspension moves through it's range of motion and then once it wears you get a 'banging' noise like metal on metal coming from the rear of the car under acceleration and braking.

 

Hopefully you can get a picture of what I am trying to describe.

 

I eventually opted for these:

 

 

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=864

 

about $500 delivered to your door and you can play with toe and camber and they come with polyurethane bushes. For the price of 2 sets of derlin bushes, you'll never need to replace anything on the control arm again and you are afforded WAY more adjustment than the bushes can provide.

 

Just my $0.02

[RB30X]

There is also these ones but yours look better;

http://www.zforceproductions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=58

 

So I pulled some bolts out today and did a little investigationing and it looks as though I already had offset bushes which had been fitted incorrectly, or fitted for almost maximum toe in. You can see in the pics how the front and rear of the rear control arms were set.

 

 

 

I spun the rear bushes around so the rear of the control arm was closer to the diff, and left the front ones 'as is' just to see how it looked when I drop it back on the ground. With the wheels in the air it already looks much better. Thanks for your help guys.

 

 

[Whittie]

There is also these ones but yours look better;

http://www.zforceproductions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=58

 

Good to hear you got your toe sorted!

 

From a technical stand point, the Z Force Production rear arms are actually a FAR better geometry. His are not yet for sale tho and there is a very long thread on Hybridz about the legitimacy or not of this guys business and the quality of some of the products.

 

For my application, the TTT arms are well over engineered and I decided that for the cost and potential pain of non-delivery or a poor product that I would just stick with what I know. If you read the Hybridz thread there is a lot of discussion about the arms and the thread collectively designed and built proto-types of that A-arm setup, as opposed to the H-arm that is the standard arm and like all the other aftermarket zed arms for sale at the present. Ultimatly tho, if you wanted the best possible rear suspension you would go with an A-arm something like the one in that link

[RB30X]

With the wheels in the air it already looks much better. Thanks for your help guys.

 

Hi guys, I'm still having dramas with this rear toe in.

Setting the offset bushes to maximum 'toe out' has helped the situation but it is still toe'ing in and it bothers me.

 

I pulled a control arm off today and I only have a 260Z 2+2 RCA to compare it with but does it look to you like the black control arm has been welded around the bush area, where as the rusty 260 one looks like a solid piece of steel??

 

 

 

 

 

I don't know if this is just an early 240Z control arm thing, compared to a later 260 or whether the control arm has been modified at some stage and this is why I cannot get it right.

 

For reference, I have measured the two arms and there doesn't seem to be a huge difference between them as far as the two parrellel axis. I'm wondering whether I should just bite the bullet and try the 260Z arms under the 240??

 

Thanks for your help.

[PeterAllen]

Tim - My 2 seater 240 is a (3/72) and it has the same 'welded' construction as those fitted to your car.

[RB30X]

Hmm, thanks Peter. That wasn't the answer I was hoping for. :'(

 

What about the distance between the rear control arms themselves, the two inside rods. I took measurements at the front and the back and they were almost identical indicating that they were straight with the body (unless they are supposed to be toe'd out?). The outer bushes where the spindle goes through is straight with the inside rods. So it must be the lower strut housing itself that might be giving me toe in?

[NZeder]

I don't know if this is just an early 240Z control arm thing, compared to a later 260 or whether the control arm has been modified at some stage and this is why I cannot get it right.

No what you are seeing is the difference between the 240z rear arms and the 260z rear arms

[PeterAllen]

Tim - Buy, borrow or purloin some 16mm or 5/8" rod  about 2-3 times longer than the spindles and replace the spindles with the rod. Measure the distances between the ends of the rods across the car. That should help you identify whether the toe-in is in the chassis/arms or elsewhere. The spindles by themselves are too short to get an accurate measurement.

 

NOTE:  If you have not recently removed the spindles FORGET this procedure! Removing old spindles is a weekend's work in itself - and that's with the right tools.

[260DET]

How much toe in does the car actually have? I assume that it has been accurately measured. A bit of rear toe in is OK.

[RB30X]

I'm getting it measured when I get back. Assuming too much rear toe in and too much front toe out for street use.