Trying to get my car ready for the John Mott Sandown Sprint.......

[Bruce]

OK, with a week and a half to go, I am trying to get the Z ready to go for the John Mott sprint at Sandown.

Last couple of things to do:

1.  The front Air Dam.  It is currently loosely attached by fixings to the left and right guards. There doesn't appear to be anything else holding it on. Can anyone with a similar front spoiler let me know how there is attached.  I am concerned the way it currently is attached, that it might let go.

 

2.  I have changed the alternator over to a internally regulated bosch unit.  Just wanting to know which 2 wires I need to bridge with the diode on the plug that originally went to the external regulator.

 

thanks for your help

cheers

Bruce

[620Z]

Hi Bruce on a spoiler I had on years ago. I attached an "L" long piece of alloy, about 10" long to the metal in the middle of the air dam area on the Zed leading out to the spoiler. After bolting to the body and then the middle of the spoiler it finally made it rigid. Does this make sense? I got the alloy length from Bunnings. Rather than a flat peice the "L" shaped length gave it more strenght.

Hope this helps. If someone can explain better please feel free. 

[Zedman240®]

Bruce for the voltage reg plug on the loom, connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input.

Then connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. That should be it!

[C.A.R.]

If you need a hand with the Air-dam mounting Bruce, bring the Zed up here this weekend - I'll be able to knock a few brackets up easy

 

Oh & that's not a list.

I still have to install my DigiDash, & it hasn't even arrived yet!

[Bruce]

thanks for your assistance everyone, I have the day off, so I will get into it.

 

If you need a hand with the Air-dam mounting Bruce, bring the Zed up here this weekend - I'll be able to knock a few brackets up easy

 

Oh & that's not a list.

I still have to install my DigiDash, & it hasn't even arrived yet!

Lurch I will give you a call

cheers

Bruce

[Bruce]

Bruce for the voltage reg plug on the loom, connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input.

Then connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. That should be it!

 

I bridged the wires above as described and put a diode between the white and yellow wire (with the strip on the diode facing the yellow wire).

The diode burnt out almost immediately when I started it up.

Any thoughts on what I have done wrong?

cheers

Bruce 

[Riceburner]

Bruce, from my notes the diode should be between blk with white trace and wht with blk trace, the banded end of the diode should be connected to the white with black tracer, then the non banded end to black with white tracer, this should be youir 'L' terminal, it'll be a switched 12v that prevents reverse current stopping the car from running with the ingnition turned off. White and yellow should be connected, this is the 's' terminal.

 

I don't have my car here to double check this though.

[Zedman240®]

Bruce, where did you place the diode? at the plug where the reg was or at the 2 pin "T" shaped plug on the alternator? When I get home, I'll take a pic to show how I did mine.

[Zedman240®]

Heres a pic of my bay; you can't see the back of the alternator, but the diode is inline on the T shaped plug. Here's an exert from my details of the 280ZX Alt to 240Z wiring guide:

 

When an internally regulated alternator is put into an early Z and the external regulator is removed, you often have the problem that the car will not shut off when the key is turned off.

 

You have to put a diode in series on the wire that goes to the "L" terminal on the back of the alternator. The "L" terminal is the bottom contact on the "T" shaped connector.

 

You have to connect the cathode of the diode (identified by a stripe on that end of the diode) to the "L" terminal and the anode (other end of the diode) to the wire that previously went to the "L" terminal. In my case (71 240Z) this was a white with black stripe wire. This prevents the "L" terminal current from feeding back into the ignition circuit when the key is turned off.

 

The diode I used was a 1N5402, other people have used a 1N5400 or a 1N5062. Easy fix to a vexing problem.

 

Side note: when I fixed this I connected the Yellow wire in the harness which leads to the alt to the "S" terminal (top of the "T" connector) on the alt - PO had spliced white/black wire into both the "L" and "S" terminals - my under hood light started working. WHOOOHOOOO!

[Bruce]

thanks Dimitri for the photo.

That makes the bridging of the wires a bit clearer.

I need to have a look at the connections on the back of the alternator to see if I can work out what is the 'L' terminal on the 'T' shaped connector

[Bruce]

I bridged the wires as per your photo Dimitri, but it still isn't working.

I am pretty sure I have the earth and the thick white with red stripe wire in the correct spot.

Has anyone got a diagram of how the wiring connects to a bosch internal reg alternator?

cheers

Bruce