luvemfast Posted May 12, 2010 Posted May 12, 2010 What are peoples experience with honing? Which type have you used and what is the advantage of each? Tips and techniques? Bottle type 3 prong stone type Quote
sco_aus Posted May 12, 2010 Posted May 12, 2010 I believe they have have different purposes, however that's as far as my knowledge goes Quote
Thomo260 Posted May 12, 2010 Posted May 12, 2010 The dunny brush type gets the best results and more even than the prongs. Quote
luvemfast Posted May 13, 2010 Author Posted May 13, 2010 The dunny brush type gets the best results and more even than the prongs. Thats what I have heard, but struggle to see how? Also can't beleive that there is not more thoughts and input from more members on this subject. Quote
dat2kman Posted May 14, 2010 Posted May 14, 2010 Flexhone, the type that is like a bloody strong dunny brush, with lots of little balls in the end of wires, and a very strong drill, insert and hold on, at slowish rpm, but with a good up and down action, to give decent cross hatching at approcx 45 degrees, and remove it while still spinning. Easyish to do, and can be done in home workshop, Other method is machine honing using a device that is expandable, and has very fine grit stones on three arma, again same deal up and down and round and round. Stting up require a bit more machinery /mill, honing machine etc. It's all a bit like a Luna Park ride! Quote
C.A.R. Posted May 14, 2010 Posted May 14, 2010 And lubricate with brake cleaner... (FWIW the bores must be checked for ovality before honing). Quote
luvemfast Posted May 14, 2010 Author Posted May 14, 2010 And lubricate with brake cleaner... (FWIW the bores must be checked for ovality before honing). Brake cleaner or brake fluid? Brake cleaner is a sprit that will eveporate and have no lubrication properties would it not? I will bring a telescopic bore gauge and micrometer home with me to check for concentricity Quote
C.A.R. Posted May 14, 2010 Posted May 14, 2010 Read here Simon: http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/index.htm Quote
nizm0zed Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 yup, brake cleaner. Apply liberally and constantly. I generally use WD40. I have also heard that dishwashing detergent works well. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted May 16, 2010 Moderators Posted May 16, 2010 CLEANING BORES When cleaning out honed bores use a shop towel which is typically made of lint-free cotton, don't use paper towels which are really just sheets of compressed wood fibers that can remain in the metal grain. And instead of using WD40 or brake cleaner an old trick is to use ATF (auto transmission fluid). ATF is a 10 weight oil with high-detergent properties with an unusual feature: When used to clean metal parts it seems to pull up residue that nothing else will. On my last rebuild I thought the honed bores were clean, but after running a shop towel with ATF through it came out with gray residue. Mysterious and very cool. Quote
luvemfast Posted May 16, 2010 Author Posted May 16, 2010 Thats for after honing though isn't it? Planning on getting the block prepped asap for honing later this week. Quote
xa1973 Posted May 16, 2010 Posted May 16, 2010 I don't know about brake cleaner....an evaporating solvent.... I can and do recommend a product called INOX... perfect and ideal for bore honing And yes check bore with inside mics for oval Quote
dorifticon Posted May 18, 2010 Posted May 18, 2010 I've managed to get a reasonably even and consistent cross-hatching pattern in the bore using the 3-pronged stone-type hone. Need to use a variable speed drill on the slow setting and practice working the hone back and forward to get a good hone pattern. It takes some technique but not prohibitively difficult. I've used brake fluid, WD40 in the past, found it to be much of a muchness. Quote
luvemfast Posted May 18, 2010 Author Posted May 18, 2010 I've received my 3 prong type in the mail today, $50. Not too bad I reckon. The block, crank and head are at the engine rebuilder getting cleaned up. Hoping to get them before Friday night so I can start. On a side note. I checked the bore for out of roundness and concentricity, using a telescopic bore gauge and micrometer. I measured 4 spots at the top, middle and bottom of the bore getting Ø86.04mm minmum to Ø86.06mm maximum. Pretty happy with that. Quote
dorifticon Posted May 18, 2010 Posted May 18, 2010 Hey, where did you get your bore dial gauge? I have been half looking for one but I don't really know what is a good one, how much to spend or where is a good place to get one from. Any suggestions? Quote
luvemfast Posted May 18, 2010 Author Posted May 18, 2010 Hey, where did you get your bore dial gauge? I have been half looking for one but I don't really know what is a good one, how much to spend or where is a good place to get one from. Any suggestions? I am a toolmaker, so I borrowed it from work. I used a telescopic bore gauge which is different, harder to use which takes experience as it is measured by "feel". Agreed, a dial bore gauge would be prefered. But work with whats available. When you say you want a good one, it will cost you. You can't go wrong with Mitutoyo. But just go to a tool shop, engineering or mechanical supplies and ask questions. There's always evilbay too. Quote
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