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Posted

Finally recived my zed after much deliberation. The plan is for it to be a daily driver but it needs some work with rust and paint but pretty good mechanically. It is however a complete zed with air dam, nice steering wheel, seats and gear knob and considering the price pretty damm good. Will have pics up tommorow hopefully. It also has a black Nissan turbo valve cover kinda out of place because it's not turbo but looks pretty good.

 

It was this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-260z-2-2-Registration-RWC-240z_W0QQitemZ280347225104QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Cars?hash=item280347225104&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2

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Posted

Doesn't look too bad at all... good score. With that Turbo cover, someone here or ebay could get rid of it for you. Unless you plans change later!

Posted

Yeah for sure. So I spent all today cleaning it up. Commitment.  :D Whole interior was vaccumed washed ect, wd40'ed everything nasty and used cleaners and rust stuff lots of hard work but now the interior look that bit better. The amount of stuff found suprised me  ;D. The accerator cable and the metal bars onto the SU carbs got a good wd40ing and throtle response improved :o. All in all a good day.

Posted

I went to have a look at that near the cemetery/uni dorm. Was getting lots of interest while I was there with many phone calls and people coming to see it. All while I was there.

Good to see that it went to a fellow forum member.

Posted

ULP is fine.

ULP 'can' be a problem on the early 240Z L24's, but the later engines are fine on ULP.

 

Oil I use is Penrite HPR40 & a Ryco Z115 filter, changed every 5000kms :)

Posted

So I don't need to get hardened/replacement valve seats to use unleaded? and the guy suggested penrite if its burning alot of oil which atm it isn't but I think penrite is the go. anyone know the recommended oil level.

Posted

I have a 75 260z and I use the lead fuel additive, I can't prove that I need it, just that the original owner said it always ran on leaded.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

The ZED is dead. >:(

I turn the key electrics come on then turn to start and clink. So I turned it off and then the electric won't come on. The battery isn't the problem. Is there a safety cut out of some sort?

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Posted

Dodgey battery terminals can do strange things sometimes... leave the lights on and twist the battery terminals...if they come on, there's your problem. Clean them very thoroughly!

  • Moderators
Posted

Try a multimeter across the terminals while you turn the key to start, see what the volts go to. If it goes below 10.5 volts, battery is flat/shagged.  How good is the battery? Have you tested it with a CCA load tester? Check all the connections for tightness and corrosion.

Posted

Simillar thing a couple of times. Every time it was the starter terminals. Cleaned them and everything worked fine.

Posted

No, I mean the starter terminal. Where the battery cable and a few others attach to the starter.

Posted

Forgot to mention, by cleaning I meant with sandpaper, get the lugs to shine a nice coppery colour again.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

After consultation with a mechanic mate. I've discovered the starter is dead, fusible links are blown and the door needs a lack and maybe in need of some repair.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

So new intake is on needs new injectors and wiring in. Some time next year will be stripped and done right. Also wrote out a no cost object mod list and its 9 pages LOL.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

After lots of consideration I'm looking to trade this beast for a 240Z. I don't really need the back seats and with the extensive amount of work that I'm going to do I want to start with the right base. The car hasn't changed much since I bought it just garaged. It was in reasonable working order before I took the carbs off. I'll probably put them back on, box the battery and get her running again. Was rego'd after I bought it but it has lapsed since. Anyone interested shoot us a pm thanks.

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