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  • 2 months later...
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Posted

Shaun, can you host these files?

They are too big for this site... :(

 

I can upload them manually to the site if needed. File size restrictions are just there to prevent us using up all our disk space on the server.

Posted

Oh also, if you have the jpgs (or whatever image format the scanas are in) all numbered in order, I can make a pdf and compress it so it is smaller

Posted

Anybody know if I can use these plans for replacing the front chassis rails in my HS30 240z 2 seater? Mine are a tad bent.

Menzcar - I suggest you firstly establish how aligned/misaligned your frame is, that's the most important factor. My front rails had some damage but just last week I dropped a plumb-bob off the designated points and found, to my delight, the alignment is mm perfect, so I'm going to leave largely as is.

 

If your alignment is okay but you are worried about looks then you could cover them with a 'U' shaped faux rail as a easier option than a total replacement - this technique is often used to cover crushed rails under the passenger compartment rather than the 'remove & replace' option.

 

It is very important to note that you must completely seal the joins of the faux rails as any moisture between them and the original rails will be a breeding ground for RUST.

Posted

Hi Gav, read an article that I think was by you on what all the prefix's mean. It was good, cleared up lota confusion. Take a look at my gallery and I think you will agree that my chassis rails are so bent that some extensive reworking is the only option.

Cheers.

Peter.

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Posted

Hi Gav, read an article that I think was by you on what all the prefix's mean. It was good, cleared up lota confusion. Take a look at my gallery and I think you will agree that my chassis rails are so bent that some extensive reworking is the only option.

Cheers.

Peter.

 

Glad the article helped. Although its not complete and needs to be updated. Yes many Z's have been battered over the years, hope it doesn't deter you.

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