Question about getting car to bare metal

[240z71]

Hey guys

 

After some research didn't really come to a conclusion so thought I would ask. I am new to the whole process but want to do all the work myself, Is it alright to sand a car by hand back to bare metal?, does it damage the metal? If so what other cost effective method is there to use that doesn't damage the metal? Also if I get the car back to bare metal what should I spray it in whilst I do the rust repairs and body work to stop surface rust and other corrosion.

 

Thanks, any input is appreciated would like to learn as much as possible

[Retro Z]

Yes you can sand your car by hand.

No it will not damage it.

 

There are many ways you can get to bare metal. Chemical stripping (paint stripper), Dual action/orbital or any sander for that matter, paint stripping discs (usually blue hard sponge looking things), wire wheel (abit rough), blade scraping method, media blasting.

 

After having used those above methods many times i would recommend media blasting. It may seem expensive but you would use similar money buying strip discs, paint stripper, sandpaper etc. You will also save alot of time and keep your workspace cleaner. I've been charged around 1k to soda blast including priming the car in Laverton, Vic.

 

As for coating bare metal. Epoxy primer, etch primer, some even use high build (hi fill) directly onto bare metal.

 

 

[240z71]

Hey mate thanks for the reply

 

I would be interested in getting the car blasted as around 1k is a lot lower than I found when I looked into this option. Is there a particular business in laverton? Would it be best to keep the car rolling or strip all the suspension off? Do I fix all the rust before the blasting or after the blasting ?

 

Thanks

[gav240z]

Hi mate,

There is no real correct way to do all this. Only better more efficient ways. I've blasted my door back to bare metal and repaired the rust, but whilst repairing it surface rust started to come back so I blasted it again and put it in etch primer to save me having to keep blasting away the surface rust build up.

 

Keep in mind that media blasting can also be harsh and cause damage if done incorrectly, but if you sand or use other media like a flap disc and put too much heat into a panel you could also do damage. You should however be fine if you take your time and don't rush.

 

If you're doing the work yourself, I'd work on 1 panel at a time to begin with (this is what I'm doing) and taking care of all the visible sections of obvious rust. So start with removable panels and work your way to the shell.

 

If you media blast the entire car, they will likely put it in an etch primer anyway once it's done. You'll have to strip this off in the areas you are doing rust repair on anyway more than likely.

 

If metal is going to be exposed for a while, you can use WD40 or Lanolin (oil) on the surface should help prevent any issues.

 

If you're not sure what's hiding under your paint, media blasting may break your heart . So be forewarned and prepared for the worst!

[DreamZproject]

If you want to do it 100% properly and have it not rust for the next 40 years, media blast. It reveals ALL. Yes it's expensive, but when you realise actually how long it's going to take you to strip the car in reality it would calculate the cost of your time to something like $20 an hour. So for most people it's a no brainer. Unless it's the original paint on the car and it's really obvious where all the rust is, just go for the media blast. It's amazing the damage dodgy repairs can hide.

[EVIL_denver]

by far the best way is media blasting with either soda, walnut shells or glass. This will get all the paint off but will strugle with body filler and rust. Sand blasting will get everything off, but i would suggest against it due to it being so harsh and easily warping thin Datsun metal. $1k for blasting and primer is dead set cheap. Always get it blasted first before starting your repairs. Epoxy primer after blasting is best because it is not porous and can stay for as long as you need while you do your repairs. Etch primer is porous and when left too long will absorb moisture and blister paint down the track.

 

If you soda blast, the operator will leave your rust / bog areas untouched un-primed so you can do these yourself easily when you carry out your repairs.

 

 

[SPT260]

If you're bare shelling the body, it's best to acid dip and phosphoric acid coat, then epoxy prime. Acid dip repmves paint, phosphoric acid converts rust and epoxy prime prevents surface rust from recurring.

 

The best places are one in Albury and another in Western Sydney.

 

https://www.redistrip.com.au/

 

http://recoat.com.au/ (comes highly recommeded from a high quality restorer I spoke with)

 

Soda or media blasting is adequate if you are not completely pulling apart the vehicle.

 

I am about to go down the acid dipping route over the next few months when I've pulled it down and catologued all the parts.

 

[scott]

I used paint stripper on my whole car then sent it to the blasters in bare metal. This way they know what there looking at.

We have had  2 cars previously extensively damaged by 2 other companies attempting to sand blast them :/

Also tried soda, does have its benefits but it also has down sides as well.

Acid is great as it gets everywhere but u have to make sure u get paint and rust proofing everywhere as there will be bare steel in all the hard to reach places.

[nat0_240_chevZ]

make sure you dont get the blasters to prime, BEFORE you get a chance to inspect.

They are well known for only lightly blasting and painting over the rest.......

 

I still love the clean & strip discs on a 7" buff and use a dust mask as there is heaps, but it does the job pretty quickly,

doesnt grind back the steel like sanding discs will do @ speed!,

and I even purposefully heat up dented in areas until the dent, just pops out, due to the selected shrinking!! more of a knack to it than i make it sound.

 

nat0