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Posted

Does any one know if the techno toy rear control arms allow for caster adjustment?

It doesn't say on the website. If not, do you guys know of any other product that allow for rear caster adjustment?

Posted

No Lurch, I meant caster, the rear wheels are hardly centered in the wheel arch and the drivers side is a few mm more forward when compared to the passenger side.

I am aware they already offer toe adjustment which is good as my car toes in a degree or so on the rear.

Posted

No Lurch, I meant caster, the rear wheels are hardly centered in the wheel arch and the drivers side is a few mm more forward when compared to the passenger side.

I am aware they already offer toe adjustment which is good as my car toes in a degree or so on the rear.

 

Yes they offer caster adjustment.  You do it with washers.  Your car is not the only one to have the rear right wheel further forward in the wheel arch.  They all do.  I thought it was just mine, till I read somewhere this is normal.  Then at a Zed BBQ I checked a few cars with my fingers and all were the same. I reckon 5 to 10 mm difference.

Posted

Yes they offer caster adjustment.  You do it with washers.  Your car is not the only one to have the rear right wheel further forward in the wheel arch.  They all do.  I thought it was just mine, till I read somewhere this is normal.  Then at a Zed BBQ I checked a few cars with my fingers and all were the same. I reckon 5 to 10 mm difference.

 

And you could put washers in the standard arms?

Posted

And you could put washers in the standard arms?

Ahh,,, no.

You can fit eccentric bushes to the inneres, but you do not get very mch adjustment.

 

The suggestion of adding castor to one side or other, or both, on the rear, using fully rose jointed adjustable lower arms,

Is done how?

 

Toe and camber, yes definately.

Posted

Not that I am across the T3 items but others that I have seen are (about 10mm) narrower at the hub than the standard control arms and therefore require 10mm of spacers/washers to space out to meet the width of the hub.

 

Now I am no expert but from what I understand if you use 5mm washers front and 5mm back you will have 0 caster theoretically, if you were to put 10mm washers in front and none back, it would push the strut forward in relation to the control arm, resulting in a small amount of + castor theoretically.

 

The ones I have seen were being installed at SWM. They were supplied by the customer, the boys at SWM didn't think much of them and had to do their own modifications to meet their requirements.

 

Mick

 

 

 

Posted

Unless you are going to move the rear subframe, that these T3 arms mount onto, you are not going to get any form of castor adjustability.

The rear subframes can have the mount holes elongated, on each side, which gives the ability to shove each side fore/aft.

The T3 rear arms, are fixed pivot on inboard end, and adjustable at outboard, to give camber, and toe.

To try and achieve perfect matching gaps between tyres and guard lips, will result, often, in totally screwed up rear alignment.

 

It is a common fix to cut and shut a stock rear arm, to alter toe, especially after an accident, where the body mount points can be shifted due to impact.

 

The only issue in elongating the rear frame mount holes, is, it could get moved the wrong way when subjected to normal drive forces, the solution, weld up the elongated holes, so they become a new ho

E, in the slightly different lcation.

 

We do similar on front crossmember to get front LCA's inners upwards and outwards.

Posted

Caster is probably the wrong word as the pivot points don't move,  but you can move the wheel further forward or back if you want. I think it is called set-back?

 

Once I found out that the factory cars have this variation, I didn't do this adjustment with my T3 arms.  I did get the toe even though as there was some variation there too.

 

Very happy with them!

Posted

Yes - you can move the assembly a bit forwards or back by having different washers/spacers each side, but not much.

Not sure, but searching my memory bank - Early 240Z's had the diff 1" further forward which caused an annoying vibration at about 70mph. Later Z's have the diff a little further back, which changes the angle of the halfshafts from diff to wheel and solved the vibration problem.

My '78 260Z 2+2 has a dampener (lump of steel) bolted to the front of the diff, which is suppose to dampen the vibration.

Changing the angle of the halfshafts might change the harmonics and you could get a vibration problem, but you won't know until you try, and you can always change it back to original.

post-2007-144023756105_thumb.jpg

Posted

Yes - you can move the assembly a bit forwards or back by having different washers/spacers each side, but not much.

Not sure, but searching my memory bank - Early 240Z's had the diff 1" further forward which caused an annoying vibration at about 70mph. Later Z's have the diff a little further back, which changes the angle of the halfshafts from diff to wheel and solved the vibration problem.

My '78 260Z 2+2 has a dampener (lump of steel) bolted to the front of the diff, which is suppose to dampen the vibration.

Changing the angle of the halfshafts might change the harmonics and you could get a vibration problem, but you won't know until you try, and you can always change it back to original.

I have these arms on my zed the washers are just for correcting track distance not caster adjustment as back wheels dont turn so caster cannot be measured
Posted

Davids control arms are a true 'A' arm design, the strongest and best. The advantage of this in your case is the rear link/rose joint can pivot independently, giving you the fore and aft movement you require. The toe adjustment is also much, much easier.

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