Richard's 620ZX Coupe

[260DET]

I was just thinking about the throttle body swap. Does the new electronic throttle body have a separate throttle position sensor or is it a part of the motor??

 

I don't have much lectrical knowledge but the LS3 DBW throttle body has six terminals while the TPS has three. It's a LS1 TPS.

[260DET]

What's a Luddite Anyway, if this was a ground up build then it would have a aftermarket pedal box and DBW would be used but the present OE stuff works well so it's staying. It is getting a plug 'n play Haltech 2000 with the lambda thing kit though.

[84ker]

What's a Luddite Anyway, if this was a ground up build then it would have a aftermarket pedal box and DBW would be used but the present OE stuff works well so it's staying. It is getting a plug 'n play Haltech 2000 with the lambda thing kit though.

 

That explains it then. I was just wondering what you were doing with the wiring harness for the ls1 TPS. Good work sir.

 

Peterallen, I guess both systems have there pro's and cons.

 

P.s didn't pick up on the beetles reference (showing my age) 

[tir33d]

My alternator fit just fine on the lower left, don't understand why yours need to be so high, the pass side manifolds are the easy ones.

I used a moroso sump with windage trays but still ran short. The sump was rated at 7.5 litres from memory but I could only use about 6.5. Still spun a bearing. If its a new motor, really consider a drysump, done once, done right. And then you can also build extractors and stuff to suit drysump. I used ARE and prob cost $6000 all done. Sounds a lot, but one motor + dry sump cost twice as much.

The fuel lines you mention over the manifold is kind of regarded as a bit of a restriction. You can buy a aftermarket rail set up which will cross from the front. Set up a dead head fuel system (reg and swirl pot at rear) I imagine you already have a big line and 044 pump.

You running a haltech computer or the standard LS1 loom?

Big pipes, big.. If you can get it run twin 3". I have just redone mine with twin 3" resonators in the tunnel to a four inch single opened the floor a little over diff and have a 7 inch barrel 14 inch long muffler. Sounds much quieter than before, but still noisy. Don't know how to make it much quieter without restricting flow.

Please tell me your replacing the springs with the cam change.

I found a alloy radiator that fits really well with in and out on drivers side. Only $180.

Make sure you run an extra earth from motor to body (theirs some theory about electroylisis)

I will do a review on mine in a day or two - gone into stupid mode so I can try and use it Friday

 

[tir33d]

And the heater line outputs, they are different sizes. There is a guy on ebay mexico or usa that has a pipe made for this, about $25.

[260DET]

Problem with a crate engine Phill is that they don't come with any front accessories so everything including mounting brackets has to be bought and I did not have a clue, still trying to sort out the PS pump. I looked at buying a used engine to get all the bits but hard to get a low k LS3. Haltech is a plug 'n play so it's own loom.

 

I remember your sump drama but just to be difficult I'm sticking with a wet sump and a lot of mods. Once there is something to show I'll get some pics up, the basic problem (even with a dry sump) is poor oil drain down from the heads. Eventually it will get external drains.

[tir33d]

I think there is bugger all difference in the block between LS1 and LS3. The reluctor wheel is different for cam sensor, but all accessories should be the same, or same mounting holes anyway.

I use commodore PS pump to left, commodore alternator bottom left, underdrive harmonic and a shortened belt.

[260DET]

Couple of pics featuring the manual throttle body setup, a lot of work went into the throttle lever so it would open fully with the accelerator to the floor. On the other side is the LS1 type throttle position sensor. It had to be spaced out with a made 2mm thick aluminium 'gasket' to stop it binding, just one of the sorts of unexpected problems that are all part of a build.

 

Engine is now ready to be removed for some engine out type work, next time it goes in it should be final. Hopefully

 

[260DET]

Plenty of progress being made, the sump mods may be of particular interest. Instead of going the dry sump way I've decided to back my judgment and go with a modded lubrication system including a wet sump, modified by adding three weld on box like enclosures to it's outside. Holes have been cut in the sump so oil may flow between it and each box in a controlled way. Gates are not being used because they would require the location of the holes to be compromised. Adaptors for a large sump vent and an oil drain down are being done at the same time.

 

 

 

 

 

[260DET]

Sump is with a fabricator to get all its bits done and welded, meanwhile lots of little things being done to prepare for the final engine installation. Mainly waiting on others at the moment for stuff now, did touch up the engine bay paint using one of those cheap plastic spray bottles which did quite a reasonable job. A proper spray gun is just too big for what was needed.

 

Pic below of the Xtreme twin plate clutch kit which includes a flywheel to replace the OE dual mass item. OE plate is a huge 290mm (11.5") diameter job, the Xtreme has two 260mm (10.25") sprung organic faced plates so it should be good for a bit of controlled slip when driving on the road or loading on the trailer. OE all up weighs 30 heavy kg as do most replacements, twin plate is 27kg with less momentum due to less diameter.

[260DET]

Managed to get a Corvette PS pump from the US after finding out that a Commodore pump would not fit my setup, Corvette pump does, yay. Getting closer to having the car ready to send off for specialist work including some nice welding, an exhaust system, installation of the Haltech and a dyno tune. Sump is supposed to be ready next week so with that the final lube system stuff can be installed, including the factory sump tray and oil pickup area cover, to which a oil catcher slot has been added, see the arrow on the pic below.

[tir33d]

the oil filler neck is too long, it will just touch your bonnet. Take out the neck and just use the cap.

[260DET]

No pics today, still waiting for the sump welding to be finished off, apparently welding these cast sumps is not the easiest aluminium welding job around. Held up now, all the engine bay and related stuff is done so engine installation time is being delayed. Lots of mundane detail stuff has been done, like welding in attachment points for a triangular strut brace which now can go back to the firewall because it will all clear the LS. These things really are a nice, practical package.

[Gordo]

Looking forward to seeing you down the island again, in the new and improved 280zx

[260DET]

Looking forward to showing up at PI again Gordon that's for sure, it will be a bonus if I can generate some commitment to have a proper go though.

[tir33d]

You need to get yourself a starter motor and bolt that in. Suddenly you will realise your clearance issues with header pipes.

Does this car already have a full roll cage?

You have crossed over now, no longer improved production. Might as well start stripping headlights and all.

How are you going to feed air to throttle body?

Under driven harmonic balancer?

 

[260DET]

Z is road registered Phill so it can be used for sprints and certain other Q classes but sprints do me, the only restriction is under CAMS at Bathurst where only regularity is allowed. Which does not stop a pedal to the metal run down Conrod Straight of course Car has a haft cage plus some discreet body bracing eg to the firewall.

 

While I think of it, what 5th, 6th gearbox ratio and diff ratio do you use?

 

Air intake will be similar to what worked with the turbo engine, a big K&N filter boxed into the front L corner of the engine bay behind the L headlight which has extra holes around it. Yes, fitting collectors on the R is going to be a problem which the pro will sort out, have already made a heat shield for the starter which is the solenoid on top type.

 

An underdrive balancer, cams etc are scheduled to be done later. I'm being crowded for time and the Z has to be driveable ASAP.

[PeterAllen]

... the starter which is the solenoid on top type...

 

"Please explain" - I was aware the LS2 onwards starters were shorter in length than the LS1 but I haven't heard of a solenoid configuration other than 'on top'. I can hardly fit a Tally-Ho between my solenoid and the headers.

[tir33d]

1st: 2.66:1

2nd: 1.78:1

3rd: 1.30:1

4th: 1.00:1

5th: 0.74:1

6th: 0.50:1

 

3.7 in diff. Memory here - 6200 6th gear at eastern creek. Only use 3 & 4 at Wakefield.

Mine are individual pipes on DS headers, real PITA.

 

[tir33d]

You will save yourself $1500 if you do your cam now. I am guessing you are going to have to get that computer tuned, guess $1000, labour on a motor on a stand will be $500 less. ANd you really want to rev a chev to 7000rpm, only springs can make this safer. Do it later and $1000 to retune the computer.

The underdrive is just a nice thing for your motor. Normal motors live at 2000rpm not 5000rpm, spin your power steer to quick, water pump, alternator. Not about the 3hp, more about accessory speed. Just my 2c.

Phil

[260DET]

Appreciate the advice Phill, a retune will just be part of whatever upgrades/changes are decided on after the car has done some laps, there are sure to be other things too. Am sure I've seen a pic of a LS starter with the solenoid on the side but that's about it, seen so much LS stuff lately.................

 

As a matter of interest, any idea of what speed yours is capable of down Conrod Straight? Any plans to go with a lighter 4 or 5 speed box?

[260DET]

Sump has been welded at long last, had to get the face milled because it warped a bit despite being bolted down during welding.  Have made a start to get to the stage where the sump can be put back on, nothing simple here. First of all, after cleaning everything of course, fitted all the bits and pieces to the sump itself, yep this is no ordinary sump. Starting with the sump well cover which had it's gap to the sump opened out a bit to improve oil flow back, see arrow on pic. Then for the present cap the drain down inlet and the vent outlet and fit the oil temp sender. Then comes the Improved Racing adaptor which provides in and out connexions for the thermostatically regulated oil cooler and the Accusump together, as well as a port for the oil pressure gauge sender. Used an old Datsun fitting to locate that sender out of the way, handy things those old Datsuns The final job was to fit the sump gasket. What? The metal/plastic gasket actually is fixed to the sump face by two pop rivets, is that too cool for school?

 

OK, sump done. Clean and fit the aftermarket crank scraper with the standard windage tray to go on top of that. Opened up the louvres in the tray so it could catch flying oil more effectively, see pic. Stopped there, seems like the scraper is hitting the crank or something, enough excitement for one day.

[tir33d]

Is that adapter where your oil filter goes?

Big question, does it fit?

 

[d3c0y]

So you are running an Accu-sump with a wet sump? I thought that was for dry sumps or you just dont want to run the factory oil pump?

[260DET]

Yep it all fits Phill, the Improved adaptor bolts in place of the factory blank off. Put all this stuff on the L side to make the R side as clear as possible for exhaust stuff.

 

Accusump suits a wet sump setup Jake, will try and get pics of it all installed in due course.